What makes each watch model unique from another, besides the history often attached to individual timepieces, is the design. Often, enthusiasts’ attention is focused on the dial and mechanical intricacies, which directly influence the watch’s indications. However, this is not the only aspect to consider: although most watches have a round case, there are models that are distinguished by completely different shapes.
In this article we will focus on the Tonneau shape, a silhouette that was introduced almost simultaneously with the wristwatch and has continued to evolve from the 1920s to the present day.
When we speak of a tonneau shape we are referring to an elongated case, often without lugs, with a nod to an oval shape that nevertheless retains some angles in the upper and lower parts of the dial. So many watches feature a pronounced curvature of the case to be more ergonomic on the wrist.
Although the design has remained unchanged over time, today there are modern and innovative reinterpretations of this shape, as demonstrated by Richard Mille, which has almost exclusively adopted this shape for its creations. Let us now go on to find out which are the best watches with the tonneau shape that cannot be missed within a collection.
Cartier Tonneau
The first watch on this list can only be by Cartier, a maison celebrated for its ability to create innovative forms for wristwatches, a talent that has consecrated it in the Olympus of haute horlogerie. Cartier’s Tonneau model is special not only for its unmistakable elegance, but also for its history. Indeed, it seems that the idea for this revolutionary shape for a wristwatch originated with Louis Cartier himself in 1906, just two years after the creation of the Santos-Dumont. The goal was to make a watch with an innovative shape that would fit perfectly on the wearer’s wrist.
However, this was not the only Tonneau-shaped case created by Cartier. In 1910, the maison also introduced the Tortue model, which shared the concept of an elongated case but differed with more prominent lugs and a less enveloping curvature. Some of the models we will encounter throughout the article recall precisely these interpretations of the Tonneau shape.
Vintage Cartier Tonneau models, especially those produced in the early years, are highly coveted by collectors, and whenever they appear at auction, competition is fierce. Although today Cartier has only one modern version of the Tonneau time-only, in rose gold, in its catalog, we can find other fascinating interpretations in the brand’s Privé collection, such as the dual time skeleton version, featuring two independent mechanical movements.
Franck Muller
In this case we are not referring to a single model, but to the entire line produced by Franck Muller, one of the most extraordinary watchmakers of recent decades. From the brand’s earliest years, Muller had a precise idea of development in mind: to create watches that were technically highly complex while featuring a distinctive design. The tonneau shape, adopted in 1992, became an iconic element that helped differentiate him from the successful brands of the time.
Franck Muller wanted a shape that was recognizable and identifiable at first glance. What makes Franck Muller’s tonneau even more unique is the fact that the case is three-dimensionally curved, meaning that it is also curved on the profile, fitting perfectly on the owner’s wrist. A philosophy similar to that of Louis Cartier when he first came up with this case shape, called Cintrée Curvex by the brand.
While from the point of view of fit this shape offers incredible comfort, at the same time it makes it incredibly difficult to produce, requiring the highest level of workmanship.
From a collector’s point of view, Franck Muller was quite successful right from the start, and in the vintage market, it is still possible to find several examples of incredible refinement at low prices. One example? The Franck Muller Crazy Hours, which, with its jumping hour hand and traditional minute hand, indicates the passage of time in a truly unique and fun way.
Patek Philippe 150th Anniversary
In the history of Patek Philippe, many models have featured a tonneau-shaped case. In this article we will focus on a watch that only appeared in the catalog in 1989, on the occasion of the company’s 150th anniversary, produced in a limited series of 450 pieces: we are talking about reference 3969.
This model is truly fascinating, not only because of the unusual case shape that makes it even more elegant, but also because of the special way the time is displayed. Indeed, the hours are displayed in a window at 12 o’clock with a jumping hour mechanism, while the minutes are indicated by a classic hand.
The case back displays the elegant engraving ‘Patek Philippe Genève – 150th Anniversaire – 1839 – 1989,’ along with the unique case number.For those wishing to add this watch to their collection, prices on the secondary market range between 40,000 and 50,000 euros.
F.P. Journe Vagabondage
The genius of Francois Paul Journe is second to none when it comes to the last few decades of watchmaking, and the three watches produced for the Vagabondage line once again demonstrate this.
The first Vagabondage was born in 1997, when, at the request of a special customer, FP Journe created a watch with jumping hours and a balance wheel in the center of the exposed dial. Shortly thereafter, in 2003, he decided to take up this idea to produce three pieces for a charity auction. These watches, in the three different gold configurations, were very similar to the one created a few years earlier in technical characteristics, but now encased in a case somewhere between a tortue and tonneau shape, according to the definitions given for Cartier at the beginning of the article.
In 2004 the Vagabondage line was officially born, with the first example produced in 69 pieces in platinum and rose gold. The dial echoes the 1997 model, with jumping hours and wandering minutes, which, at the beginning of each hour, engage the hour window and make a full circle.
In 2010, Journe decided to expand the line, keeping the same case but creating a new movement with jumping hours and minutes, and a small seconds hand at 6 o’clock. This model was produced in 69 examples in platinum, initially offered to owners of the first model, as well as 68 examples in rose gold and 10 in platinum with baguette-cut diamonds.
The last chapter in this fascinating line of Journe FPs is written in 2017, with the presentation of the Vagabondage III, produced in 69 pieces in platinum and 68 in rose gold. In this model, the movement now shows the hours and seconds with jumping indications, while the minutes are displayed by a classic hand.
To power the digital jumping seconds display, which requires an enormous amount of energy, Journe ingeniously incorporated its characteristic remontoir d’égalité mechanism, thus ensuring a constant amplitude to the balance wheel.
Each of these three models, when sold at auction, reaches significant figures, demonstrating the incredible impact this line has had.”
It should also be kept in mind that the design of this line influenced that of Journe’s entry-level line, the Élégante, which is proving so successful among enthusiasts.
Richard Mille
Like Franck Muller, Richard Mille has made the reinterpretation of the tonneau case a cornerstone of the brand’s philosophy, so much so that it has become a hallmark of the brand.
At the beginning of the new millennium, Richard Mille had a clear idea: to create a series of innovative watches, inspired mainly by the world of racing, that would represent a real break with traditional watchmaking. To achieve this goal, the technical aspect of the revolutionary movements was placed in the foreground, but without neglecting design and comfort on the wrist.
Most of Richard Mille’s signature watches are made from lightweight and durable materials, such as titanium and carbon, features that allow them to combine strength and lightness. These timepieces feature a tonneau-shaped case that, despite its often generous size, fits perfectly on the wearer’s wrist. Richard Mille has succeeded in reinterpreting the tonneau shape in a modern key, turning it into an icon of design and functionality.
After 23 years of uninterrupted research and constant innovation, Richard Mille has carved out an outstanding role for itself in modern watchmaking. Part of this success is due to the design, which is not appreciated by everyone but loved by most enthusiasts. Of the 120 or so models in the catalog, most feature a tonneau case, with a few exceptions that are rectangular, such as the RM 016, or round, such as the RM 33.
My favorite reference? As a sports fan, I struggle not to choose the line dedicated to Rafa Nadal, particularly the RM 27-02.
Conclusion
The tonneau shape turns out to be particularly attractive, offering truly unique comfort. As we have seen with brands such as Richard Mille and Cartier, this shape allows not only an elegant aesthetic, but also a perfect fit on the wrist. It also allows watchmakers to experiment with different calibers than usual, resulting in innovative creations. A notable example are the watches of FP Journe, which have taken full advantage of this case to create masterpieces that will remain iconic over time.
In addition to the modern appeal of this form, some vintage tonneau models can still be found on the market at relatively reasonable prices. This offers an unmissable opportunity for collectors, allowing them to add a watch to their collection that is classy, but most importantly, different from the usual. Buying a vintage tonneau-shaped watch means not only owning a piece of horological history, but also standing out with a timepiece of unique and timeless style.
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