Watches & Wonders week has finally arrived and Tudor has not betrayed expectations.
For the 2022 edition, the Geneva-based maison is presenting to the public three new models for three collections, remaining faithful, in our way of thinking, both to the noble reputation of the family and to the fil rouge that keeps it connected, probably more for marketing reasons than anything else. to his older brother Rolex.
The new protagonists presented to the international scene are the Black Bay Pro, in effect the real new entry in the Tudor house, and the Steel & Gold versions of the iconic Black Bay GMT and Black Bay Chrono.
Tudor Black Bay Pro
As we mentioned earlier, the Black Bay Pro represents the real news in the Tudor house. Beautiful, sporty, suitable for all situations, it is a real point of reference among the most emblematic models of the family. The spirit that characterizes this object is undoubtedly to be found within the strong trend towards the world of exploration that has always characterized the family, already chosen over time by many pioneers in the world of adventure as the ideal travel companion. The task of this timepiece is to collect the legacy of its worthy predecessors by rewriting history in a contemporary way.
I know what is going through your head, it is useless to hide it … Do you also find the crazy similarity with the Explorer II reference 1655 known to all as Freccione? Well yes, we honestly can’t say the opposite, but let’s find out more closely together.
The case
Technically speaking, we consider the Black Bay Pro as the perfect combination of modernity and vintage charm. The steel case, finished on glossy and matte contrasts, is characterized by a diameter of 39 mm. The screw-down winding crown, engineered to guarantee water resistance up to 200 meters deep, is placed on the right of the timepiece and decorated with the classic rose of the family in relief. The fixed bezel, graduated on 24 hours, is in brushed steel while the domed sapphire crystal gives the object a certain retro charm typical of the professionals of the past.
The dial
The dial, made only in the total black version, acts as a perfect background for the timepiece, creating an optimal contrast with the hands and hour markers. The very practical possibility of reading two different time zones is undoubtedly noteworthy.
The reference time, indicated by the classic Snowflake hand typical of Tudor in bright yellow color, completes an entire revolution of the dial every 24 hours, and its reading must be carried out according to the fixed graduated bezel. The local time, read through unprecedented luminescent ceramic indices, is indicated by the younger sister, also Snowflake, which is adjusted in increments of one hour.
At three o’clock the dial is completed by the date window characterized by black font on a light background. An original but above all practical note, it is the very useful mechanism that allows the automatic repositioning of the date indicator to the previous day by bringing the hour sphere back. The picture is completed by the family logo at twelve o’clock and the COSC certification together with the underwater endurance camp at six o’clock.
The movement
The beating heart of the Black Bay Pro is entrusted to the in-house caliber MT5652 with GMT function, the initial MT stands for manufacturing by Tudor, which has its roots on a solid test characterized by 4 years in the service of the iconic GMT of the Geneva-based company. With its 31.8 mm in diameter and 7.52 mm thick it is characterized by the classic free spring balance wheel supported by a transverse bridge. The heartbeat is around 28,800 vibrations per hour. The power reserve is approximately 70 hours.
The bracelet
The real possibility of customization of the timepiece derives from the different options of bracelets marketed by the maison.
We already knew that the fabric strap represented one of Tudor’s distinctive features since 2010, the year in which the maison was a pioneer in the international watchmaking scene with its entry into the market.
For the Black Bay Pro, Tudor offers, in addition to a black strap featuring a yellow band specially created by Julien Faure‘s craftsmen using traditional jacquard loom methods, the classic satin steel bracelet, designed on the models of the folding rivets of the 50s and 60s, specially recreated in solid hammers with laser-finished elements that recall the rivets of the time. Finally, the last bracelet option is a black hybrid created using leather and rubber with a folding clasp.
Black Bay GMT Steel & Gold
Moving on to the other novelties of the Tudor house, to complete the GMT collection, the steel and gold version could not be missing, a much appreciated combination in the 80s and 90s that is gradually returning to the modern stage, strongly recovering its slice of customers. In our view, in this new version of the GMT, the ability of the Tudor house is to be found in the precious combination of warm colors that are perfectly balanced. Starting with the bidirectional yellow gold bezel with a brown and matte black anodized aluminum disc, which gives the object a pleasant enveloping harmony.
The technical characteristics remain almost unchanged compared to the references in steel only: 41 mm diameter case, total black dial, hour and second hands in yellow gold and typical date indicator at three o’clock. The self-winding mechanical movement with bidirectional rotor is characterized by the MT5652 caliber with GMT function with a power reserve of approximately 70 hours. The optional bracelets, in addition to the riveted one in steel and gold, are those in brown leather with folding clasp and steel safety clasp, and the one in black fabric with beige band and pin buckle.
Black Bay Chrono Steel & Gold
Another interesting novelty, also to be considered as the right and natural completion of the Balck Bay Chrono collection, is the steel and gold version. This splendid chronograph represents the closest thing the market can offer today in terms of “value for money”.
Beautiful, gritty, robust and full of style. Looking at the technical characteristics of the object, the Black Bay Chrono is powered by the Breitling-derived MT5813 manufacture movement. Consisting of a column wheel with vertical friction, with variable inertia balance wheel, micro-adjustment screws and antimagnetic silicon spiral, it records a pulsation of 28,000 vibrations / hour for a power reserve of 70 hours. All absolutely COSC certified. The aesthetic of the timepiece is strongly characterized by the continuous play of contrasts between the champagne dial and the dark colors of the small chronograph dials that compose it.
The 41 mm diameter case is in polished and satin-finished steel, while the pushers that drive the chrono are in yellow gold. The fixed yellow gold bezel with black anodized aluminum disc and graduated tachymeter scale with yellow gold indexes takes up the contrast of the dial in a sublime way. There are three optional bracelets, the classic steel and gold riveted with folding clasp, the leather strap with removable cuff, and finally the classic and timeless black fabric.
Our opinion
Although interesting, we consider the Steel & Gold versions of the GMT and Chrono as natural and physiological completions of the collections already on the market. However, we cannot say the same of the new born in the Tudor house, the Black Bay Pro, a real rising star of the world watchmaking scene. Sporty, gritty and strong, this model not only finally dusts off all the dedication of the family towards the world of exploration, but also revives the bearer all the charm of adventure, placing him in all respects as the only and faithful companion of everyday. Let us know what you think in the comments!
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