For its 140th anniversary, Breitling has opened a new Flagship Store at 61 Via del Babuino, in the heart of the Capital.

For a special Boutique, it takes a special opening: cutting the ribbon was CEO Georges Kern, along with several brand Ambassadors, including the GOAT: Kelly Slater.

We were there, and we interviewed both of them.

IWS: Our audience is quite young. What do you think the younger generation is looking for in Breitling? In terms of products, experiences and brand values.

GK: First, many young people are beginning to take an interest in, collect, or buy vintage watches-like my son, for example, who is 27 years old.

Second, analyzing luxury sales, it is Generation Z that is buying more, not the older age groups. You can see this everywhere. Many luxury brands now have advisory boards composed of people from this generation.

Third, I don’t think we should focus too much on age groups. We need to think about lifestyle. Breitling represents a lifestyle. We aim to be the cool, relaxed and sustainable alternative to traditional watch brands. We are involved in surfing, triathlons, and have collaborations with lifestyle brands like Deus Ex Machina and Triumph Motorcycles.

It doesn’t matter whether you ride a Triumph motorcycle at 18 or 50. The question is, do you like the style? With our modern-retro style, I think we connect with people of all ages. We are a modern brand but deeply rooted in our heritage, staying true to our DNA. Our designs are inspired by iconic patterns that evoke nostalgia and a sense of history, but updated with modern elements to fit today’s style. People appreciate “touching” authentic materials, and this fusion of past and present reassures our customers, offering them the best of both worlds. We use cutting-edge technology to make our watches while embracing retro design, a perfect combination.

IWS: The watch industry is going through a unique time. There has been a slowdown after a period of rapid expansion. What do you think is critical for the future, both for brands in general and for Breitling in particular?

GK: I am not worried at all about the luxury or watch industry. Since the 1980s, these industries have prospered. Just look at the stock performance of the major luxury groups-it’s constantly rising.

We are going through a turbulent phase right now, but it is important to recognize that the post-COVID boom was an anomaly. I think half of the current decline is just a return to normalcy, and the other half is due to external factors. I am confident that things will recover.

In addition, there are huge populations in India, Malaysia, Indonesia, and North America-all regions with significant growth potential. In a world dominated by digital, owning an analog watch is becoming “cool again,” which is why I remain optimistic about the future.

What we are seeing is a concentration of power among a handful of brands. We live in a globalized world, we listen to the same music and watch the same streaming programs. As a result, five or six brands dominate the market, and fortunately, Breitling is one of them.

However, smaller brands will face challenges because they do not have the resources to overcome hard times. But strong brands like Breitling will continue to thrive. We have a rich history of 140 years. Strong brands combine two elements: they are modern and dynamic, but they also have a rich heritage. If we look at the top ten watch brands, only one is relatively new. All the others have at least 100-200 years of history. This is because, at that price level, people are not only looking for a product, but also for history and authenticity.

IWS: Recently, the acquisition of Universal Genève has generated excitement among fans and collectors. You have put together a really strong team for this project. Could you tell us more about how it will develop?

GK: Yes, we have an extraordinary advisory board of about 20 experts, including collectors, brand experts, historians and journalists. But whatever we do, there will be criticism. If we change too much, some will say, “Why did you change so much from the original?” If we stay too close to Universal’s roots, others will say, “Why just a re-release?” So it’s about finding the right balance between modernizing the brand and preserving its essence.

What we have discovered in the last 12 months has been extraordinary. I even had a conversation with Nina Rindt about it. Gerald Genta’s Polerouter is iconic, and we are planning something special to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the first transatlantic flight from Copenhagen to Los Angeles in partnership with SAS. It’s exciting, and Universal has incredible potential in the high-end watch industry.

IWS: When we read the news, I was thrilled. Universal Genève is an underrated brand with a very rich history.

GK: It really is, and the secondary market is booming. A friend bought a Universal Genève Compax, and its value has tripled since we acquired the brand.

IWS: I know you’ve also been to Max Bernardini’s. They have an incredible collection of Universal watches.

GK: Yes, and the passion among collectors is amazing. In my 30 years in this industry, I had never been invited by collectors until now. With Universal, I have been approached directly by some of the most prominent collectors, including those who usually focus on high-end luxury brands. They are also Universal collectors, which is fascinating. Some Universal products need updating, but others are perfect as is.

IWS: You mentioned 2002, the year you became the youngest CEO of Richemont. What did you learn from that experience? What do you want to share with the young people in our audience?

GK: I always tell young people that career success is one-third hard work, one-third talent and one-third luck. You cannot control luck, but you can recognize opportunities when they arise. I’ve had opportunities in my career that I didn’t pursue, but I’m glad I invested in Breitling.

When I became CEO of IWC, the brand was still small, which allowed me to make a real difference. I always leaned toward smaller brands because you can make a significant impact. In larger companies, it’s harder to make that kind of difference.

IWS: Today we are here to celebrate 140 years of Breitling and the opening of the new boutique in Via del Babuino. What are Breitling’s plans for the future in Italy?

GK: It’s interesting-Breitling was very successful in France and Italy during the 1980s. In France, everyone wore Breitling; at one point we were even more popular than the main luxury brand. The same thing happened in Italy, thanks to an agent, Gino Macaluso, who we had at the time. He was instrumental in our success here. The Chronomat was created for the Frecce Tricolori in 1983. Italy has such a rich history with Breitling. I want to bring more of these Italian roots into our communication. In the coming months, you will see more advertising, products, and collaborations specifically for Italy. In the 1980s, France and Italy were key markets for us, and I want to recapture them.

Several brand Ambassadors were present at the unveiling, including 11-time World Surfing Champion, Kelly Slater (one of the rare cases where the term GOAT is used correctly).

Quite exceptionally, we had the opportunity to ask him a few questions.

IWS: Your surfing career began 34 years ago, in 1990. How do you think the sport has changed over the years?

KS: Surfing has changed so much since I started. Even just access to information has completely transformed. As a kid, you had to wait three months to find out the results of a competition on the other side of the world. Back then, digital photography didn’t even exist, let alone fax machines.

I remember in 1995 we had a competition in Indonesia, in G-Land, sponsored by Quiksilver. It was the first event to broadcast live updates on the competition, which was a big step forward at the time. A few years later, streaming broadcasts of competitions became the norm. When I first started competing, if I won, I had to call my mother to tell her-there was no one on the beach with a phone or anything! Now, however, everything is live, instantly accessible, and people are quick to analyze everything in real time.

IWS: Speaking of longevity, you have been in the sport for decades, and Breitling has a similar history, having been active for 140 years. Do you see a parallel?

KS: Yes, longevity has definitely become my most important asset. In the beginning it was all about innovation, now it’s about staying healthy and maintaining a passion for what I do.

Breitling is similar in this sense: it has existed for so long because it continues to innovate. And that doesn’t always mean making radical changes, but improving what is already great, constantly refining the product. This is critical in both surfing and watchmaking. It’s not about making flashy moves, but mastering the basics and continually improving.

IWS: Absolutely. Precision is a key part of both surfing and watchmaking, right?

KS: In surfing, you have a split second to position your feet correctly, otherwise you miss the wave. The same level of precision is needed to create a great watch. You can’t get away with just a spectacular trick. I’ve seen surfers emerge because of a single amazing trick, but if they don’t master the basics, they won’t last. It’s those little details-the foot position, the weight distribution-that make all the difference, and that’s what distinguishes great surfers. The same goes for watches: master the basics, then build on them.

IWS: Speaking of foundation, how does Breitling connect to athletes in this regard?

KS: Breitling has been incredible in supporting causes close to my heart. One of the first things we worked on was a recycled nylon strap, we organized beach cleanups, and they created a sustainable, collapsible, reusable watch box made from recycled plastic bottles. They didn’t just talk about these issues; they really took action, and I really appreciated that.

Then there are the teams that have created-uniting successful people in different fields such as sports, entertainment, and aviation. My team includes surfers Stephanie Gilmore and Sally Fitzgibbons. They also collaborate with French surfer Jeremy Flores and an Italian surfer (Roby D’Amico). It has been great to see how they have embraced the surfing world.

IWS: Going into specifics, is there a Breitling watch that has special meaning to you?

KS: The most special is the first watch we created together. It was the first time Breitling made a completely recycled nylon strap, a theme that is very close to my heart. In fact, I gave one to my brother for his 50th birthday right after the launch, and it was a beautiful moment. We were in Bali for the presentation, we cleaned up a beach; it was really special.

Breitling’s new Flagship Store is located in an early 20th century building in the heart of Rome and is the brand’s largest store in the city, with more than 240 square meters spread over two floors. This space is designed to offer an immersive experience, highlighting the brand’s history and promoting an idea of accessible and sustainable luxury.

On the ground floor, there is the famous Watch Bar, Breitling’s signature, along with a dedicated sales area, where all models from the Land, Sea and Air collections can be found, flanked by personal items from the brand’s Ambassadors. This makes the store a hub for cycling, flying, surfing and motorcycle enthusiasts, as well as watch enthusiasts.

In the coming months, the boutique will host several events, including the traveling exhibition “Time Capsule,” which will feature a selection of exclusive pieces from Breitling’s Heritage collection in early October.