It is known, Watches & Wonders gives emotions and one of them is Cartier, which continues to establish itself as one of the most daring and innovative maisons, capable of defying time through creations that fuse design, technique and savoir-faire. With its new watches (some of them for the women’s wrist that we have told you about in a dedicated article) presented today, in this edition of the international watchmaking event, Cartier evokes its watchmaking heritage with extraordinary reinterpretations also going to revisit the iconic Tank, which I am going to tell you about in this article.
At the heart of Cartier’s philosophy lies the art of metamorphosis: an alchemical process in which metal and precious stones are transformed into objects of desire. Time, for the maison, is not just a measure, but a dimension to be shaped, reinvented and sublimated through new creations. Let us now embark on this fantastic journey into the Maison’s heritage, drawing its essence and understanding at its best what will be its metamorphosis, by discovering two new versions of the French house’s most famous model.
The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier
Well, for those who don’t know, the Cartier Tank was born in 1917 inspired by the shape of the tanks used during World War I. Louis Cartier, fascinated by the rugged, square lines of Renault’s armored vehicles, reinterpreted their geometries in a refined key, resulting in a timepiece that quickly became iconic.
Throughout its long history it has evolved while keeping its essence intact. Created in 1927 as the heir to the Tank Normale (the first-generation, chocolate-shaped Tank), the Tank LC model is distinguished by its refined lines, elongated case, and beveled brancards. Today, Cartier offers an expanded version, equipped with the 1899 MC movement, a state-of-the-art mechanical self-winding caliber, available with cases ( 38.1mm x 27.75mm) in rose gold and yellow gold. This intervention not only amplifies the size of the timepiece, but also elegantly projects it into the future while maintaining its original balance and harmony.
Since its first appearance on the wrist of General John Pershing, the Tank has captivated celebrities and personalities from the worlds of art, film, and fashion, from Andy Warhol to Jackie Kennedy, via Yves Saint Laurent and Lady Diana. Each era has seen its own evolution: from the Tank Cintré of 1921, with its ergonomic curvature, to the Tank Française of 1996, which introduced the integrated bracelet, to more recent reinterpretations.
The new Cartier Tank à Guichets
Among the highlights of Cartier’s collection this year is the new Tank à Guichets. This model, originally launched in 1928, was conceived to combine technique and design in an absolutely innovative way for the time: instead of the classic hands, time is displayed through two small windows, with jumping hours and continuous minutes. A watch that undoubtedly, at first glance, arouses doubt, curiosity, mystery; this makes the observer notice it and be attracted to its use.
The new edition of this timepiece uses an exclusive movement, the hand-wound Caliber 9755 MC, developed especially for the occasion. Its minimalist shape, with a hidden crown at 12 o’clock, vertically brushed satin-brushed case (37.6mm x 24.8mm) and polished finish, makes it a watch with contemporary appeal, yet true to its historical origins.
The new interpretation is developed around two distinct-looking proposals. A first model (in yellow gold, rose gold or platinum) recalls the design of the original 1928 watch, with hour window located at 12 o’clock and minute window located at 6 o’clock.
The second platinum model, a limited and numbered edition of 200, positions the two windows obliquely, creating an unmistakable aesthetic that pays homage to the 1930s, their creative vibrancy, and the aesthetic and formal research of the time.
Conclusions
The new collection presented at Watches & Wonders 2025 is not just a celebration of the past, but a declaration of intent for the future. The Maison continues to innovate without betraying its identity, combining aesthetics and performance, craftsmanship and cutting-edge technology.
The Tank, with its many evolutions, remains a living testimony to Cartier’s relentless pursuit of perfection. Through the dialogue between design and engineering, the maison once again confirms its role as a pioneer in the world of haute horlogerie, giving enthusiasts timeless creations destined to last for generations to come.
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