Some time ago, LVMH announced the rebirth of Daniel Roth, one of the most fascinating and interesting independent brands of the 1990s, thanks to the genius of its founder, whose combination of design and technical sophistication is second to few.
To date, the brand has presented two watches to relaunch itself in the watchmaking scene: both tourbillons. The first, in yellow gold, was produced in a souscription edition of only twenty pieces, while the second, in rose gold, was unveiled last year during Geneva Watch Days.
Today, at LVMH Watch Week, the brand is set to launch a new ultra-flat timepiece inspired by the master’s early 1990s creations.
Let’s find out the features of this new watch in detail together.
Features of the new Daniel Roth Ultraflat
One of the fundamental principles behind the rebirth of the brand was to work closely not only with Daniel Roth, but also to draw deep inspiration from the great history of the maison and its past creations.
Just as in 1990, after the presentation of a tourbillon in 1989 (the C187 as the first model), Daniel Roth now offers an ultra-flat single time that combines the elegance of the double ellipse case, with the incredible technique of an ultra-flat caliber.
Staying true to the elegant line of the original models from the 1990s, the new ultra-flat Daniel Roth has the same dimensions as the Tourbillon Souscription: the case measures 35.5 mm wide and 38.6 mm long. It is thinner, however, with a profile of only 7.70 mm. This is made possible by the hand-wound ultra-thin DR002 caliber, also shaped like a double ellipse, with a thickness of just 3.1 mm.
Although the case back is closed, as in the models of the 1990s, and thus does not allow one to admire the movement, in true Daniel Roth style every detail is finished with extreme precision: just think of the corners of the bridges, a feature that denotes maniacal care in finishing.
The dial perfectly echoes the distinctive Daniel Roth style already known in the vintage models and which, since the revival, Enrico Barbasini and Michel Navas are reinterpreting in an excellent way. The yellow gold base features Clou de Paris guilloché work, while the hands, brand name and production number are a deep blue color, creating a refined contrast with the rest of the watch.
The watch will be produced in only twenty pieces under the Souscription formula, just like the first tourbillon presented after the brand’s relaunch, and will likely be offered first to customers who have already purchased one of the two previously launched models.
Conclusion
Speaking of Daniel Roth and the rebirth of this wonderful brand, I admit to being biased. Indeed, the history written by the master represents a fundamental pillar of modern watchmaking, having contributed to the rise of independent watchmakers.
The fact that it was LVMH, with Fabrique du Temps, that launched this rebirth may have initially frightened fans of vintage models, as the dynamics of large groups are far removed from what a brand of high craftsmanship like Roth needs. However, freedom of creation has been a key aspect in these first two years of the new brand’s life, and this latest creation is yet another demonstration of that.
What is striking is not only the extreme quality with which these true works of art are made, but also the fact that an attempt is made to remain faithful to the creative path taken by the master more than 35 years ago, focusing on two aspects that are very dear to him: tourbillons and ultra-flat calibres.
I am really curious to find out what the future holds for Daniel Roth and what next complication will be the star of these new watches.
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