The Japanese house on the occasion of Watches & Wonders 2022 presents its first complication: the new Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon, stealing the show from other houses and once again playing the leading role with regard to the novelties offered
In fact, not only is the first complication introduced in the brand’s 62-year history, but also the world’s first combination of tourbillon and constant force mechanism on the same axis.
The movement
In 2020, the concept of a new movement was presented, the T0 Constant Force Tourbillon, which combined a tourbillon, to combat the effects of gravity (which you can read in more detail here), and a remontoir to guarantee a constant supply of energy.
The novelty that interested this movement, however, was not so much the presence of both elements, as their arrangement on the same axis of rotation, thus reducing the loss of torque and the increase in friction that would instead occur if wheels or wheels were present. other components between the two mechanisms.
After more than ten years of development by Takuma Kawauchiya and his team, this movement is refined, reduced in volume and a worthy timepiece is built around it, giving life to the 9ST1 caliber, a true masterpiece.
The designer, with a background in the musical field, has decided to transfer some aspects of his previous career to this timepiece and in fact the rhythm at which the tourbillon and the constant force mechanism move is deliberately noisy and is particularly harmonious.
Kodo in Japanese means heartbeat and as the movement, as the beating heart of the watch, is made visible, the sound is also essential to convey the feeling of vitality that characterizes this timepiece.
Precision and chronometry
It is also the highest frequency tourbillon movement with constant force mechanism ever made (4 Hz). It is manually wound and has a power reserve of 72 hours (50 hours of constant force), maintaining an accuracy of +5, -3 seconds per day.
Attention to chronometry is also demonstrated in the control processes, in fact each movement is tested for 48 hours, in each of the six positions and at three different temperatures.
This is double the time compared to the Grand Seiko standard and is a process that extends over a period of 34 days and, once the tests are concluded, an individual certificate is issued for each watch defining the performance characteristics of each movement.
Aesthetics and Skeletonization
In addition to the notable technical innovations, this timepiece presents another novelty. It is in fact the first time that a skeletonized watch has been made by the Japanese house and, bearing in mind the care and elegance that usually takes care of the dials, it is certainly an exceptional debut.
Each of the 340 movement components has been hand-finished with different techniques, be it anglage, perlage, satin finish, sandblasting or the characteristic zaratsu polishing, no element is left to chance, whether it is visible or not.
The movement, which we praised earlier, is the actual face of the watch and the off-center dial at 12 o’clock, with masterfully faceted dauphine hands, does not in any way compromise the view of the underlying movement.
There are two other indicators, that of the power reserve at 8 o’clock and that of the running seconds, whose hand is made from a ruby present on the tourbillon and remontoir system, resulting in a sort of decentralized counter with dead seconds at 6 o’clock. .
The general appearance of this timepiece, despite being purely monochromatic, has almost architectural characteristics: the alternation of lights and shadows dictated by the different finishing techniques in fact makes it all similar to a futuristic city and the 44 synthetic rubies, usually secondary details, this time they stand out as the only amaranth-colored focal points.
Case and materials used
The case then resumes the alternation of glossy and satin finishes and is made up of two metals that one would never expect to see paired. The inner case and part of the bezel are in platinum, while the sides of the case and the rest of the bezel are made of a proprietary titanium alloy, specifically Brilliant Hard Titanium, which has the distinction of being as brilliant as platinum but twice as bright. harder than stainless steel.
Incredible as it may seem, the water resistance reaches up to 100m, a figure which, although certainly not necessary, contributes to the overall charm of the watch.
To complete the whole there is a black leather strap. Although at first glance it may seem of some exotic animal due to the visible fantasy, in reality it is nothing more than calfskin treated with Urushi lacquer. Historically used as a lining of samurai armor and currently in traditional bowls and dishes, it has the particularity of being water resistant, thus protecting the underlying skin.
Our opinion
This watch has bewitched us, in all respects. It is not only an engineering masterpiece, as defined by the parent company, but a real work of art, which plays with light, space and sounds.
The attention to detail is truly insane, with the hollow, almost sculptural lugs that reflect the lack of a real dial; the screws, both internal and external, have six grooves and, in addition to being functional, they also become decorative details. Every little aspect is impeccably cared for, even more than the very high level we have been accustomed to by the Japanese manufacturer.
It is a watch that has an important presence on the wrist, no doubt, but it still maintains an uncommon fit due to the complications it offers: in fact, with a diameter of 43.8mm, a lug-to-lug of 50.6mm and a thickness of 12.9mm. it is certainly not a huge amount to wear.
Price and availability
The reference of the new Grand Seiko is SLGT003 and has a recommended retail price in Europe of € 370,000. This is a limited edition of 20 pieces that will be available starting October 2022.
To find out more about this watch, please visit Grand Seiko‘s official website
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