In this article we are dedicated to discovering the new products launched by the Japanese brand par excellence. Who are we talking about? Grand Seiko, of course. By now we know the skill of the artisans or “Takumi,” as they are properly called by the brand, who every year delight us with products that have nothing to envy to the most emblazoned brands. At Watches & Wonders in April, the Japanese brand presented several models, which have a strong dialogue with nature, while also renewing the previous range of movements.
Evolution 9
SLGH021
In the Evolution 9 series, and as I mentioned earlier, the connection between mechanics, aesthetics, and nature is very much present as it is throughout the brand’s panorama, and this collection is no different. Multiple versions with multiple dials are presented, with the first model in particular being the SLGH021G, also known as the “Genbikei” and limited to 1,000 pieces, which inside displays a dial made by the incredible craftsmanship of the brand’s artisans, ready to capture every detail.
In this new timepiece, elegance, design, and color combine to bring to life the excellence to which the Japanese brand has accustomed us. We know that Grand Seiko takes great care of its dials, and with this collection it has not denied itself.
In particular, the relief texture of this dial is inspired by the Genbi Valley, an area adjoining Iwate Prefecture where the brand’s watches are made, more specifically the Iwai River from which it derives this teal color that, thanks to Takumi’s technical skill, changes according to the angle from which the time is read, creating magnificent shades of light.
The watch case is made of the brand’s new patented alloy, Ever-Brillant steel, which is more resistant to corrosion and shinier than a classic steel, reflecting light with near-white hues. Inside beats the caliber 9SA5, introduced in 2020.
Embellishing the timepiece is the brand logo at 12 o’clock and on the clasp, made of gold.
SLGW003G
With the SLGW003G, also made in rose gold (SLGW002J), the brand from the Land of the Rising Sun introduces the new 9SA4 movement, which updates the 9SA5 introduced in 2020.
The entire case features several updates that characterize the Evolution 9 collection, starting with the lugs, which have been streamlined and narrowed, the center of gravity has been lowered to promote comfort and wearability, and the indexes on the dial have been fluted and strengthened. The case middle is made of Grand Seiko hard titanium, an alloy that, compared to traditional titanium, gives excellent properties by ensuring lightness and double resistance to corrosion and scratches, while also being shinier thanks to a technique called Zaratsu, employed by the brand’s artisans to make the surface shinier and more vivid.
The 9SA5 Caliber
Turning the watch in fact, one can admire this magnificent hand-wound mechanical caliber with 36,000 oscillations per hour and a power reserve of 80 hours, which continues the evolution of the caliber 44GS introduced in 1967 by the brand. The finish of the movement, which might seem trivial, is not left to chance but as always is meticulously detailed, it is in fact inspired by the patterns created by the Shizukuishi River, which embraces the Japanese brand’s factory.
Although it is built on the basis of the 9SA5 movement, it has been redesigned for 40 percent so as to elicit a very acute sensory experience in the customer, thus having a more intense contact with the watch itself, in fact the whole part concerning the gears dedicated to manual winding are designed to generate sensations in the consumer.
When it comes to Gran Seiko also, one knows that attention to detail is manic. This year a Cutrettola, or a bird typical of Morioka, a town next to the brand’s factory, was introduced as the ratchet. This is not the end of the story, because in fact winding the watch, the sound emitted by the gears is the same as that of the bird, a not insignificant detail that makes us understand once again how the maison is firmly anchored and attentive to its territory, enhancing the characteristic environment that surrounds it.
SLGT005 Kodo
The most interesting novelty from a mechanical point of view is this timepiece limited to only 20 pieces, nicknamed KODO, which means ‘heartbeat’ in Japanese. This watch is the sibling of another timepiece unveiled in 2022, the first complication caliber ever produced by the brand: the Kodo Constant force-tourbillon, which combined for the first time in history a tourbillon and a constant-force mechanism as a unit on a single axis.
The first Kodo was created to celebrate the evening twilight through a delicate play of light and shadow, while this new edition is meant to evoke the opposite, namely the dawn, thanks to the delicacy and reflections present on the handcrafted silver components. As I said, in Grand Seiko it is the detail that makes every aspect exciting, in fact, we do not find red rubies as usual, but blue sapphires that perfectly match the design and finish of the watch.
The case is made of two different materials, 950 platinum that makes up the outer case, and bright hard titanium for the inner part, giving excellent mechanical and scratch-resistant properties.
There are also two watch movements, which encases the caliber 9ST1 giving birth to the constant-force tourbillon. It, fuses a classic tourbillon with the constant-force mechanism, meaning that the balance moves at 8 beats per second, while the tourbillon wheel follows this rotation at 1-second intervals. These two assisted movements realize a harmonic symphony that recalls the heartbeat, giving a truly unique aural sensation.
SBGC275
Grand Seiko’s latest addition is a sporty GMT, created to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Spring Drive Caliber 9R movement. Immediately jumping out at us is the dial of this watch, which, as well as nature, we have by now come to understand is the common thread running through the novelties presented by the brand this year. It, in fact, is meant to pay homage to the Japanese landscape, in particular the sunrise over the Hotaka mountain range, which creates these red to pink hues on the peaks.
A new technique, Optical Multilayer Coating, was used to make this bichromatic pallette, which brings the dial to life. The latter can take on an orange or red color depending on how the light hits it, just as it does for mountains during sunrise.
The caliber of this timepiece is the 9R96, part of the Spring Drive family, that is, those movements powered by a mechanism that we can call a hybrid of mechanical and quartz, patented by Grand Seiko.
Final Thoughts
In an increasingly industrial and globalized world, Grand Seiko shows its affinity and connection to its local area, enhancing it in every aspect. One thing is certain, the skill of its artisans and products have now reached very high standards of quality.
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