Oman dials can be found on many models from the most famous brands, such as Rolex, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe. It is not uncommon, in fact, to see them on auctions at astronomical prices.
Despite being very rare and appreciated by collectors, Oman dials are also witnesses of an important period for the Arabian Gulf Sultanate.
Let’s discover together their history and the one of those who made them come true.
The Sultan Qaboos Bin Sa’id
In the last century, Sultan Sa’id Bin Taimur represented one of the most important characters in Omanite politics. He was in charge from 1932 to 1970.
His policy towards foreign countries was very open and focused on developing new connections, especially with the United Kingdom. However, in domestic politics, he maintained a rather closed and authoritarian line. This led to the Dhofar War in 1962, a civil war that lasted more than 10 years.
The authoritarian and anti-democratic behavior affected not only the people, but also the son Qaboos Bin Sa’id.
Qaboos, born in 1940, was soon sent to England, where he received a strict education and at the age of twenty entered the Sandhurst Royal Military Academy.
Once he obtained the ranks he was enlisted in the 4th Battalion stationed in Germany and only a year later returned to Oman where he honed his knowledge of the Islamic religion.
His father, meanwhile, pursued his almost “dictatorial” attitude of closure, becoming increasingly paranoid, following a terrorist attack.
His obsession with power reached a point of no return when he put his son under house arrest for a period.
The coup d’etat
In 1970, the British government helped Qaboos Bin Sa’id oust his father from the throne in a coup.
England had numerous interests in oil fields in Oman. Thanks to the support it gave to Qaboos during the coup, especially at the hands of Brigadier Tim Landon,the United Kingdom became Oman’s main trading partner.
Thanks to his modern and progressive vision over the Sultanate changed a lot over the years.
Relations with the rest of the world were developed, through trade agreements and the join of the Arab League. Infrastructure, health and education were also enhanced, making it one of the most influential and wealthy states in the Arab Gulf.
It was this openness to the outside that determined the need to deal with, among other things, state gifts that are normally presented to visiting politicians or to worthy members of the state.
Qaboos, being a great watch enthusiast, chose watches as representative gift of the Sultanate, not expecting that, in the not-too-distant future, they would become highly desired and sought-after objects by collectors around the world.
All via London
At the time, as there were no authorized dealers in Oman, the Sultan commissioned all orders of watches from 1970 to mid-1990 to Asprey (the famous London jewelry that you find in this article), thanks to his long-lasting relationship with England.
This, to make room for the important Khanjar on the dial, engraved its name on the back.
This feature is present on all models commissioned to Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet and it is essential to pay attention to this detail since if the back does not bear the inscription “Asprey” it is definitely not coeval to the rest of the watch.
The Kahnjar and the Sultanate’s colors
Symbol of the Omanite tradition, the Kahnjar is a traditional decorated dagger that was carried by the inhabitants of the region to protect themselves during long journeys in desolate areas. You can still see it in some photos of the Sultan, published just above.
The flag has as its only symbol the Kahnjar superimposed on two crossed swords (just like on the Oman dials) and is composed of three colors with three different meanings.
- White symbolizing peace and prosperity;
- Green symbolizing fertility;
- Red symbolizing the battles against the invaders.
These colors, having a deep meaning, will also be the Kahnjars’ colors that we’ll find printed on the various dials.
Dials
Red Kahnjar
Perhaps the most common and widespread of “Oman dials”, we find the red Kahnjar on many models.
The first models to be ordered and delivered are Rolex Sea Dweller ref.1665, intended for members of the British SAS (Special Air Force), for their help and contribution to Qaboos during the Civil War.
A particularly rare model is the Rolex ref.6263.
One of the peculiarities that immediately catches the eye is the fact that the “Daytona” print disappears and the “Cosmograph” print is moved over the counter at 6 o’clock to make more room for the Kahnjar.
You can find this model in our guide to Vintage Rolex Daytona.
Green Kahnjar
The green Kahnjar is very particular and really stands out on the dial.
It is found almost exclusively on some Rolex ref.6263 or a few day-date ref.1803.
Theories about the origin of these dials are many.
Some argue that these dials were never officially produced, but delivered on some models as “tests” and discarded by the Sultan instead of the red ones.
According to others, however, green was simply one of the flag’s three colors and, although in a very small number, it was regularly used for state gifts.
This theory is the most reliable, as evidenced by a lot auctioned by Christie’s in May 2017.
It is a Rolex ref.6263 Oman dial with green Kahnjar donated in 1974 to a British Airways pilot stationed in Oman at the end of his career.
It’s been said that there are fewer than 10 specimens and, complete with all its original set, was sold for 727,500 CHF.
White Kahnjar
The white Kahnjar is not common for Rolex dials.
Although Rolex is a significant part of Oman dial watches, Sultan Qaboos also commissioned to Asprey small batches of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet’s most famous models.
In fact, we can find some Royal Oak or Nautilus, the two most famous sports models of the respective Maisons, with white Kahnjar dials.
If in the beginning Rolex watches were given to SAS components for the support given during the Civil War, Audemars Piguet or Patek Philippe were intended for more important and institutional figures due to the use of valuable materials such as precious metals or diamonds.
Gold Kahnjar
The gold Kahnjar is rare, very rare.
From the few data available, models with this dial were representative gifts of the Sultanate that were delivered to a few figures selected by the Sultan himself.
A special example is the Rolex Sea Dweller ref.1665 of which only four are known.
Another example, which confirms the fact that gold Kahnjar dials were intended for very selected figures, is the beautiful Rolex Submariner ref.1680 auctioned by Christie’s during the last Geneva auction for 187,500CHF.
Oman Police
Another particularly rare dial is that of watches intended for the Omanite Police.
It can be found on Rolex GMT Ref.16750 and Submariner Ref.16800 only.
These dials’ production is relatively more recent as they began to appear in the early 1980s and depicted the Sultanate Police Coat of Arms.
It is particularly noteful that in both models, to make room for the logo, the classic 4 prints with the name of the model, maximum water resistance and the word “Superlative Chrnonometer/Officially Certified” are completely eliminated.
To find out more about the Rolex GMT 1675, have a look to our guide.
Crowned Kahnjar
The term Crowned Kahnjar doesn’t refer to a specific series of dials, but to a change that coincides with a specific historical moment.
Interestingly, after 1976, all Oman dials featured on the various model, have a crown over the Kahnjar.
This symbol was requested by Qaboos to recall the supremacy of the Sultanate after the victory of the Dhofar War that ended, in fact, in 1976.
Today
The relationship between the Sultanate and Asprey ended in the late 1990s as Rolex, after the United Arab Emirates and other Gulf states, landed in Oman opening official dealers in major cities.
To this day, dials with the Sultanate’s symbol are no longer printed, but the crowned Kahnjar is engraved on the back.
Indiscretions, however, state that, only by appointment and with an average long waiting list, in Oman Rolex also engraves the back of the models not officially produced for the Sultanate. But we have no certainty about this!
Translated by Lorenzo Spolaor
