Once again this year, the most eagerly awaited new products at Watches and Wonders are those of the most important brands, including Patek Philippe, which remains the benchmark, especially when it comes to grand complications.
In this article we discover together all the novelties presented by the Geneva-based maison at the most important watch fair of the year, focusing on the most interesting ones.
Patek Philippe Ref. 5308G
As our first watch, we start with a true work of art, Reference 5308, which combines four different complications, offering, to the wearer, the ultimate definition of a multi-complicated watch. This self-winding watch combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar.
A similar version was presented in 2023 in a limited series at the brand’s Great Exhibition in Tokyo, but with this model it actually enters the house’s catalog. The 42 mm case is certainly important on the wrist, but thanks to certain details, such as the skeletonized lugs, and Patek’s manic care, it turns out to be incredibly pleasant to wear on the wrist.
While the complication alone might be enough to make the watch, the contrasting light blue dial with some details, such as dark blue indexes and dial edges, create a perfect harmony.
The price list for this multi-complex is 1,247,380 euros.
Patek Philippe 5328G
As a second novelty, we want to tell you about a new reference, the 5328G, which on a Calatrava case introduces the possibility of instant display of the day of the week (window) and date (hand) at six o’clock and the additional indication of eight days of power reserve at 12 o’clock.
In order to be able to show these indications, Patek developed entirely a new movement, the 31-505 8J PS IRM CI J, which combines the classic dial construction with optimizations and innovations such as the Pulsomax escapement with anchor wheel and anchor in Silinvar®, developed under the “Patek Philippe Advanced Research” program
The case, 41 mm in diameter, has Clous De Paris machining on the case middle, while the blue-colored dial is textured and in perfect harmony due to the vertical arrangement of the counters.
The price list is EUR 71,280.
Patek Philippe 5370R
Perhaps my favorite new addition, considering the 5308 in a separate competition, is the new split second chronograph Ref. 5370R. In this case, the 41 mm diameter case is made of rose gold and perfectly matches the brown dial, tachymeter scale and cream-colored subdials. Breguet indexes and rose gold hands, in turn perfectly succeed in combining colors.
What makes this masterpiece truly unique is the mechanics, given Patek Philippe’s incredible disfavor-faire in making chronographs of the highest caliber.
In this case the price list is EUR 291,060.
Patek Philippe 6159G
Staying still in the grand complication family, Patek Philippe decided to reinterpret a type of perpetual calendar very dear to them, the one with retrograde date indication.
In addition to the important complication, the watch is distinguished by the stylistic choices adopted by Patek, including the workmanship of the case, especially in the bezel part and with Clous de Paris guilloché, but especially the dial, which, made of sapphire crystal com metalization gray and shaded black, allows the various components of the movement to be seen.
The watch list is EUR 118,800.
Patek Philippe 7340R
At this important fair, Patek also decided to focus on the Twenty-4 line by introducing for the first time a complication, one of the most emblematic for the brand: the perpetual calendar.
This watch was presented in two dial variants, both with a 36 mm diameter rose gold case. The first dial is made in green soleil and the other in silveré, with a shantung finish, featuring vertical and horizontal satin-finishing.
These two innovations are able to offer customers, especially women, a complicated watch with a case that has now become iconic and has been an important reference in the brand’s sales for several years.
The cost of these timepieces is EUR 121,180.
Patek Philippe 4946R
Taking up the famous Annual Calendar, first introduced by the brand with the reference 5035, Patek Philippe introduces a new variant of the complication, designed for a clientele that appreciates smaller case shapes, measuring 38 mm in diameter.
The Annual Calendar allows display of the day of the week, date and month and requires only one manual correction per year, at the end of February.
Aesthetically, the watch features a rose gold case and an elegant brown dial, satin-finished vertically and horizontally reminiscent of wild shantung silk fabrics.
The price is EUR 55,840.
Patek Philippe 5524G
The Calatrava Pilot Travel Time is also being reinterpreted, with a new white gold variant featuring an elegant ivory lacquered dial with a vintage feel, paired with a khaki strap with a textile pattern to recall its true DNA.
The 42 mm diameter case features the crown at three o’clock, and the two time zone pushers at 8 and 10 o’clock.
The price of this watch is EUR 61,420.
Patek Philippe 6196P
While we have talked so far about the many different complications that obviously make Patek the benchmark of Swiss watchmaking, we must also reflect on the brand’s ability to make timepieces of unique elegance. With the new hand-wound Calatrava, Reference 6196P, the brand hits this target in full.
The watch, crafted in platinum in a 38 mm diameter case, has as mentioned a really essential design thanks to the rose gold plated opaline dial and is really perfect for more formal occasions. The baton hour markers, as well as the hands, are matched by the deep brown strap, creating a wonderful contrast with the dial.
The price of this watch is EUR 47,520.
Patek Philippe 7128G and 7128R
The fledgling Cubitus family also expands, thanks to two new time-only models made in rose gold and white gold that differ in smaller case sizes than the models presented a few months ago. In fact, in this case the size chosen is 40 mm, compared to 45 mm for the other models.
The white gold version was paired with a blue dial, and the rose gold version with one in a deep brown.
The price of both models is EUR 77,220.
Patek Philippe 5811/1460G
Many were expecting a new addition to the Nautilus family, and while this novelty is not accessible to everyone, I must say that it is very special indeed. Indeed, we are talking about a new Haute Joaillerie model in white gold that, thanks to a careful selection of stones, makes Gerald Genta’s design unique.
The rounded octagonal bezel is decorated with a row of baguette-cut diamonds, while the dial features rows of brilliant-cut diamonds, along with baguette diamond hour markers. The center links of the bracelet are set with baguette diamonds, and the main links with rows of brilliant-cut diamonds. A total of 1,285 brilliant-cut and 195 baguette-cut diamonds were used.
The price of this timepiece is EUR 641,510.
Patek Philippe 7010G
As the latest addition, again to the Nautilus family, Patek expands the women’s line, introducing two variants of a white gold time-only with diamonds on the bezel and a blue dial. For both, the movement is quartz and the case is 32 mm in diameter.
The only difference between these two watches is the ability to fit a bracelet or strap, changing the look of the watch with ease.
The price list for the bracelet model is EUR 60,470, and the strap model EUR 42,650.
Conclusion
I have to say that this year, the news from Patek Philippe’s house has been particularly interesting and focused on the complication part of the brand, focusing less on the sports lines, considering however that a few months ago it launched a new sports line, the Cubits.
What is your favorite watch presented by the Geneva-based maison at Watches and Wonders?
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