In the vast universe of contemporary luxury, where high-end watchmaking is often linked to large international groups, Hermès represents an autonomous voice. Its independence, both economic and creative, is rooted in a history of nearly two centuries. Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès as an artisanal saddlery and horse harness workshop on the rue Basse-du-Rempart in Paris, the maison has been able to evolve without ever denying its origins and its love of manual gesture, purity of design, and the silent pursuit of perfection.
From leather to silks, bags to perfumes, each Hermès creation reflects a rare balance between tradition and innovation. The venture into the world of watchmaking began in the 1920s, with the first timepieces made in collaboration with Swiss masters, and was consolidated in 1978 with the founding of La Montre Hermès SA in Biel. Since then, the maison has never stopped deepening its savoir-faire, until it became a full-fledged player, thanks in part to the integration with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier.
This vision has given rise to collections that combine formal rigor and artistic sensibility, such as the Arceau, the Cape Cod and, since 2015, the Slim d’Hermès.
The Slim d’Hermès line: a new style code.
With the Slim d’Hermès line, the maison has codified a watchmaking aesthetic focused on balance. Designed by artistic director Philippe Delhotal, the model combines sobriety and refinement through a precise graphic language: a smooth bezel, tapered lugs, a flat case, and a typeface created ad hoc by Philippe Apeloig, whose stroke reflects the idea of “suspended” time.
The collection has known different declinations, from automatic versions to more sophisticated complications, such as the perpetual calendar. Today, with the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune, Hermès explores new territory: skeletonization, interpreted according to its own aesthetic of subtraction and clarity.
Design and materials: structural lightness
The 39.5-millimeter rose gold case retains the classic proportions of the Slim d’Hermes line, with a moderate thickness that accentuates its natural elegance. The thin bezel amplifies the perception of openness on the dial, while the sapphire crystal, also present on the case back, offers a full view of the movement. The watch is water resistant to 30 meters, a measurement that emphasizes sophistication over sportiness.
The strap, in black alligator, is made in the Hermès workshops, a testament to the maison’s vertical integration and constant link to traditional craftsmanship.
The caliber H1953
At the heart of the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune is the new caliber H1953, an automatic movement with an off-center tungsten-coated micro-rotor made with Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier. Hermès has held a 25 percent stake in the manufacture since 2006, a choice that allows it to develop exclusive movements while maintaining direct control over quality and design.
Caliber H1953 is distinguished by an integral skeletonized construction: bridges and plates have been redesigned from the origin, not simply hollowed out, to ensure strength and aesthetic consistency. The decoration favors sandblasted surfaces, anglage and glossy finishes that dialogue with light in an understated and elegant way. The power reserve is about 48 hours, with a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour.
The complication of the double moon phases adds visual and technical depth. The two discs, miniaturized from those of the famous Arceau L’Heure de la Lune, represent the moon realistically, with a three-dimensional effect that contrasts harmoniously with the architecture of the movement. The display is visible through two symmetrical apertures, one at 6 o’clock and one at 12 o’clock, creating a rare balance for a skeleton timepiece.
Evolution and Revolution
With a price tag of €27,100, the Slim d’Hermès Squelette Lune represents a synthesis of the house’s philosophy: the union of aesthetics, precision and consistency. It does not seek to impress with virtuosity, but to offer a cultured interpretation of skeletonization, where mechanics are an integral part of the formal language.
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