One of the most interesting and appreciated complications ever in the world of watchmaking is undoubtedly the chronograph complication, which exerts a special fascination not only because of its ease of use, but also because of its many possible applications, primarily in the world of racing.

In this article we will take you on a tour of five of the most iconic chronographs of all time, analyzing their technical and aesthetic features and tracing the history that made them so legendary.

Rolex’s chronograph: Daytona

Rolex’s Daytona, i.e., one of the best known and most popular watches among enthusiasts and nonenthusiasts alike, perfectly represents the original idea of a tool watch with a chronograph that was created to time track times.

Unlike the earlier chronograph references of the 1950s and 1960s, i.e., the so-called“Pre-Daytona” with the reference 6239, Rolex introduced the external tachymeter bezel and adopted the Valjoux caliber 72, equipped with chronograph counters at three and six o’clock and continuous seconds at nine o’clock.

What I find most fascinating about this first reference is the genesis of its name, defined only after the global launch. A 1963 advertisement, on the occasion of the endurance race at the Sebring circuit, mentioned this new model by calling it “Le Mans.” In fact, in these early years of production, the dial only bore the words “Cosmograph” in addition to the brand name.

The name we are accustomed to today came only a few years later, when Rolex became the official sponsor of the 24 Hours of Daytona, deciding to link this important sponsorship with the watch that would later become iconic over the years.

Although today it is considered the hardest model in the Rolex catalog to obtain-especially in the steel version-its popularity only grew exponentially in the 1980s, peaking with the introduction of the 16520 model, powered by the automatic 4030 caliber derived from the Zenith El Primero.

With the reference 116520, Rolex began producing the Daytona entirely in-house, updating the movement but remaining true to the 40 mm case and a dial configuration very similar to previous versions. In subsequent years, the Daytona was further updated with the introduction of a ceramic bezel and in 2023 with the caliber change from 4130 to 4131 after a full 23 years.

In addition to the now iconic design, the Daytona’s appeal is also due to the great personalities who have worn it; most notable among them is Paul Newman, whose personal example was sold at auction by Phillips in 2017 for more than $17.7 million.

The Patek Philippe Chronograph: 1463 Round Keys

Let us now discuss another chronograph reference, equally iconic but decidedly less sporty than the Daytona: the Patek Philippe reference 1463, known to enthusiasts as the “Round Keys.”

Introduced in 1940 and produced for 25 years, this model was conceived with the aim of making a waterproof chronograph. The nickname “Round Keys” derives from the round, knurled and larger-than-average chronograph pushers, specially designed to provide greater water resistance than the more classic rectangular pushers of the time.

Only an estimated 750 examples of Reference 1463 were produced, mostly in yellow gold, about 190 in steel, and very few in rose gold (in my opinion, simply stunning in the salmon-colored dial configuration).

Over the years, numerous examples have gone to auction, and the most unusual configurations-such as those with Breguet numerals, a dealer’s double signature, or a black dial-often reach sky-high prices.

The Heuer Chronograph: Monaco

We now move to the house of Heuer, a brand that has always been linked to the world of racing and thus the creator of some of the most beautiful chronographs ever.
The most iconic, in our opinion, is the Monaco, introduced in 1969 and immediately becoming famous for its distinctive square case. This watch was one of the first to mount Caliber 11, developed by a collaboration between Breitling, Hamilton and Heuer, resulting in one of the first automatic chronograph calibres.

One of the most distinguishing features of this movement is the crown positioned on the left, while the chronograph pushers are located on the right.
In addition to the state-of-the-art caliber, Heuer, in order to differentiate the new collection from the already established Carrera and Autavia, entrusted Erwin Piquerez with the design of a case capable of guaranteeing water resistance: thus was born the reference 1133B, which was presented precisely in 1969.

What made the watch a true myth was its appearance in the film “Le Mans,” on Steve McQueen‘s wrist. Initially, Formula One driver Jo Siffert – McQueen’s friend and a consultant to the production – suggested he use the Autavia, but the actor preferred the Monaco, helping to make him a part of the legend.

At the New York auctions held earlier this month, Steve McQueen ‘s very Monaco was sold at Sotheby’s, achieving the important result of $1.4 million (about 1,380,000 euros)

Over the years, the Monaco has undergone minor modifications and declined in numerous editions, leaving a deep mark on the world of watchmaking. Its original design, combined with the history surrounding it, has made it one of the most iconic chronographs ever.

Omega’s chronograph: Speedmaster

TheOmega Speedmaster would also need no introduction, having become the symbol of space and lunar exploration through its presence on the wrist of the Apollo 11 crew.
The history of the Speedmaster begins several years before the moon landing, in 1957. However, it was not until NASA’s request in 1964, which needed watches capable of withstanding the harsh conditions of space, that the Speedmaster was officially designated as a watch for astronauts.

In 1969, the Omega Speedmaster definitely made history, worn by Neil Armstrong, Edwin “Buzz” Aldrin and Michael Collins during the Apollo 11 mission. The story goes that Armstrong, once on the moon, left his Speedmaster in the capsule as a backup for the malfunctioning onboard clock.

To distinguish pre-1964 models from later ones, one need only look at the “Professional” inscription on the dial, which indicates both the new, sturdier 42 mm case and the rigorous testing the watch underwent for use in space.

To this day, the design of the Speedmaster has remained largely faithful to the original; over the years, however, numerous variations in materials and dials have been introduced, allowing each enthusiast to find the version that best suits his or her tastes.

Zenith’s chronograph: El Primero

To mark the brand’s 100th anniversary, Zenith planned in 1965 to create the first self-winding chronograph caliber. The goal was not only to fill a gap in watchmaking at the time, but also to meet the growing demand for automatic watches that had emerged since the mid-1950s.

Over the course of the project, the characteristics of the movement evolved to the decision to raise the frequency to 36,000 vibrations per hour, in line with experiments that other brands were conducting in those same years.

The 1965 deadline was missed, as Zenith diverted many resources to research in the field of quartz. However, the project returned to the spotlight two years later, when rumors began to circulate about the Caliber 11 developed by the joint venture between Hamilton, Heuer and Breitling.

The new Zenith caliber was officially launched on January 10, 1969, and mounted on three different references-A384, A385, and A386-that would in time become the object of desire for many enthusiasts. It is up to you to decide whether to add one (or more) to your collection.

Conclusion

With this article we hope to have taken you on a journey through the chronograph models that have most marked the past century and watchmaking in general, bringing innovation and having been worn by great men and women during historic feats.

Now it’s up to you, what do you think is the most iconic chronograph ever?

Visit our Youtube channel to experience the best of the world of watchmaking firsthand.

For all real-time updates follow us on Instagram.