In the watchmaking scene, the link between TAG Heuer and the world of motorsports is recognized and well known to all. Just think of models such as the Monaco or the Carrera, two icons of the 1960s and 1970s that contributed greatly to the brand’s fame over the years.
Of equal importance was, and still is, the Aquaracer model inspired by the first diver’s watches made by the brand in the late 1970s, blending a bold, sporty aesthetic with the quality that has always distinguished the La Chaux-de-Fonds-based maison. Let’s discover its history together.
The 2000 Series: the ancestor of the Aquaracer
In 1978 TAG Heuer launched its first diver’s watch with the 1000 Series, a model that would be updated and improved four years later, in 1982, when the 2000 Series was born, a diver’s watch designed specifically for water sports that embodied features such as reliability, ruggedness, and sportiness, along with water resistance to 200 meters and a unidirectional rotating bezel.
Year 2004: Aquaracer is born
In 2004, TAG Heuer decided to give a new face to the 2000 Series, officially launching the Aquaracer line, which has since become synonymous with durability and reliability, with a sleek design that has been revamped in form but without detracting from the special characteristics of the diver’s watch.
The first generation of the Aquaracer was presented as a direct evolution of the 2000 Series. This model featured several new features, including improvedwater resistance to 300 meters and a larger rotating bezel with engraved minute numerals for superior legibility and functionality while diving. In addition, the Aquaracer line introduced a new dial design, with a “Clous de Paris” pattern, larger hour markers, and luminescent hands, which gave the watch a modern, sporty look.
The first generation included several variants, including automatic and quartz models. The automatic version mounted the Calibre 5 movement. The quartz versions featured a design similar to the previous 2000 series, with updated dials and indexes. In 2005, TAG Heuer expanded the line with the introduction of the Aquaracer Calibre 16 Chronograph, an automatic model with a 41 mm case available in three colors: black, blue and silver.
The second generation Aquaracer: 2009-2012
In 2009, the Aquaracer entered its second generation, divided into two main lines: the classic 300m version and the new, more modern Aquaracer 500m. The latter was launched to fill the void left by the discontinuation of the Aquagraph (a diver’s watch introduced by TAG in 2003 with depths of 500m) and introduced a more angular and robust case, eliminating the curves of the 2000 series. The design was enriched with a rubberized bezel with metal numerals and a date window with a magnifying glass.
The classic 300m version continued the traditional style of the 2000 line, offering variants with quartz and automatic movements, chronographs, and models with large date displays. This diversification allowed the Aquaracer to maintain its presence, both among diving enthusiasts and those who sought an elegant but durable watch for everyday use.
The third generation of Aquaracer : 2012-2014
The third generation of the Aquaracer, introduced in 2012, represented a return to basics of sorts. While the 500m line underwent a restyling, adopting a more restrained and traditional design, the real novelty was the use of ceramic inlays for the bezel, a feature never before seen on an Aquaracer.
The new 43 mm cases featured a more restrained look than their predecessors, dividing fans between those who appreciated this return to a more classic style and those who preferred the bolder aesthetic of the previous generation.
The fourth generation aquaracer: from 2014 to the present.
The fourth generation of the Aquaracer, starting in 2014, marked the beginning of a new era for the collection. TAG Heuer eliminated the 500m line, focusing on the 300m version, available with different bezel options, including steel and colored ceramic. The new design featured the latter with flat edges, in contrast to the pointed edges of previous generations. The hour markers and hands increased in size, improving readability and giving a more massive appearance.
One of the most important models introduced in this generation was the Aquaracer 300m Calibre 5 with a ceramic bezel. Initially available with a 41 mm case, it was later made in a larger 43 mm format as well, offering more presence on the wrist. The range was also enriched with sporty variants with nylon straps and bold colors such as olive green and metallic blue, reflecting the model’s continued evolution.
In recent years this model has also been updated in terms of the movement. In fact, we find not only automatic calibres but also solar-winding ones, from which it takes the name Solargraph. This has made it possible to reduce the watch case thickness and weight.
Although as a model it is inspired more by a male audience, a Solargraph with a 34mm case was introduced this year to cater to smaller wrists such as those of women, thus embracing an even wider customer base. (It should be pointed out that, over the years, variants for the pink audience of the iconic Tag Heuer house diver have always been produced, sometimes even with diamond-enriched dials.)
Today’s Aquarcer mechanical models offer a steel case in two size variations: 36 and 42mm. The watch, inspired by the deep sea, features a dial made with a texture that simulates the waves of the sea and in various shades of color, all distinguished by a contrasting seconds hand for greater visibility.
Inside we find the COSC-certified automatic caliber TH31-00, which, thanks to a power reserve of 80 hours, provides extended autonomy.
Finally, speaking of special models, in today’s catalog of Tag’s house diver we also find the incredible Aquaracer 1000 Superdiver, a watch made entirely of titanium and which is capable of withstanding a depth of up to 1,000 meters.
Conclusions
Throughout its evolutions, the Aquaracer has retained some key features that have ensured its success. These include water resistance of at least 200 meters (often 300m or 500m), a screw-down crown, a unidirectional rotating bezel, and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal.
Thanks to these special features, this model has become a benchmark among luxury dive watches, combining advanced technology with refined aesthetics.
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