When it comes to rare watches, you know, goosebumps come just thinking about how much they might be worth and what wrist they belonged to. Today, we are in the presence of one of those instances, as on May 11, at the prestigious Sotheby’s headquarters in Geneva, a Rolex Daytona example will be auctioned off that embodies an even higher level of myth: the extremely rare Cosmograph Daytona Ref. 16516. A unique piece, preceded by the sale of 3 other examples of this very rare reference, which we told you about in a dedicated article.
The Daytona Zenith we are going to analyze in this arctic features a special configuration that promises to set the hearts of collectors around the world ablaze.
Rolex Daytona Zenith in platinum ref. 16516 MOP
This extraordinary Daytona, created between 1998 and 1999, represents a true unicorn in Rolex history. Made of 950 platinum, a noble and complex material to work with, it features a 40 mm diameter case with a satin finish and mirror polish on the details. Platinum gives the watch a perceptible weight, a tangible symbol of its exclusivity.
What makes it even more special is its natural mother-of-pearl dial, enhanced by brilliant-cut diamond markers mounted on white gold bezels. The dial is protected by an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that guarantees the spectacular view of the mother-of-pearl and diamonds without being scratched or damaged.
The movement that drives this marvel is caliber 4030, based on the legendary Zenith El Primero, modified by Rolex with a reduced frequency to 28,800 vibrations per hour. This self-winding movement is equipped with a column wheel for chronograph control and a Breguet balance spring for superior chronometric accuracy. Recall that Rolex used the Zenith El Primero automatic caliber for its Cosmograph Daytona collection from 1988 until 2000.
Completing the watch is a hand-stitched red alligator leather strap with a deployant buckle also made of platinum. A detail that adds intrinsic value to the watch and certainly adds to its preciousness.
This is not simply a rare watch: it is the last of the four Cosmograph Daytona Zenith Ref. 16516s known so far to have a platinum case has only now appeared to the public for the first time. The other three examples, also exceptional, have been sold in past auctions reaching stellar figures, often exceeding the already ambitious initial estimates.
The first specimen appeared in 2018 (auctioned for EUR 770,000), and was the one that confirmed the existence of this mythological watch series. The second, with a lapis lazzuli dial, was auctioned for a staggering EUR 3.2 million, while the third, with a turquoise dial was auctioned for EUR 2.68 million. Yes, staggering sums when you think that for the same amount you can take home a dozen supercars of the prancing horse.
The origins of this masterpiece are shrouded in mystery. It is rumored that the commission of the four platinum examples was desired by Patrick Heiniger, the then CEO of Rolex, known for his bold vision and love of absolute exclusivity. Although never officially confirmed, this narrative helps infuse Ref. 16516 with an almost mythological aura.
Sotheby’s estimates that this fourth Zenith Daytona in Platinum could be sold for between USD 850,000 and USD 1.7 million , but given the recent history of its “siblings,” it is plausible to expect that the final figure could go much higher.
In short, the Daytona Ref. 16516 is more than a watch: it is a journey through time, a symbol of an unrepeatable era and a tribute to the creative genius of Rolex. Whoever has the privilege of clutching this treasure on his or her wrist will possess not only an extraordinary watch, but a fragment of legend destined to shine for eternity. Who will be the lucky one?
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