In 1955, Breguet consigned to history one of the most iconic chronographs ever created for civilian use: the “Type XX.” Seventy years later and as part of the house’s 250th anniversary, the legend of the skies makes its return with the unprecedented reference 2075. A novelty that recaptures, in an exquisitely contemporary key, its historical, technical and stylistic heritage.
Let’s discover together the origins and all the special features of the new Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075!
Nomen Omen – The history of the “Type 20” and “Type XX” chronographs
Between the 1950s and 1960s, the French Ministry of Defense commissioned a chronograph intended for pilots of the Armée de l’Air, the Centre d’Essais en Vol, and the Naval Aéronatique. The request and specifications were clear: to make a hand-wound chronograph with a “retour en vol” function better known as a flyback (a feature, designed to facilitate pilots’ maneuvers in flight, that allows the chronometer to be instantly reset and restarted with a single press) that was readable, reliable, and accurate.
Thus was born the “Type 20,” which was not yet associated with Breguet and did not designate a specific model but rather a “type” of watch-because several manufactures participated in the tender launched by the French Air Force, including: Auricoste, Dodane, Airain and Mathey-Tissot. Due to the success and demand for this version intended only for the military air force, Breguet later decided to also develop a civilian version named “Type XX.”
250th Anniversary – Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075
In celebrating its 250th anniversary, Breguet draws on its rich archives and traces the challenges, not only technical, faced by the illustrious Abraham-Louis Breguet, Louis Breguet, and the couple Dieudonné Costes and Maurice Bellonte.
3 new chapters, 3 stories, and 3 watches: The Classique Souscription presented in Paris paying homage to the pocket masterpiece, Souscription No. 3424 of 1797, the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 presented in Shanghai, respecting Breguet’s incredible technical and aesthetic savoir-faire, and last but not least, the two Type XX chronographs reference 2075 presented in New York.
All the new releases are united by the adoption of a new gold alloy,18K Breguet gold. A combination of yellow gold enriched with silver, copper, and palladium that stands out not only for its brilliance but also for its resistance to discoloration and durability.
The two new versions of the reference 2075 are the direct heirs of the only 3 examples of the Type XX made in gold. They differ from the fourth generation chronograph introduced in 2023 and are closer in style and proportions to the Type XX Big Eye 2065ST created for Only Watch 2021.
They both feature a 38.3 mm Breguet gold case with a unidirectional knurled bezel (vital for measuring time intervals easily and accurately), whose satin finish cleverly contrasts with the unscrewed crown and polished pump pushers. The sculpted short lugs and thick domed sapphire crystal give that additional balance between vintage-inspired elements and contemporary appearance. The thickness here is reduced, from 14.1 mm in the 42 mm automatic models to 13.2 mm, thanks to the adoption of two excellent hand-wound movements: caliber 7279 (for the black version) and 7278 (for the silver version).
The dials reflect the two different souls of the watch. The first, a non-limited special edition, is made of black anodized aluminum and pays homage to Louis Breguet, who pioneered the use of Duralumin (an alloy composed of 95 percent aluminum) for the structures of his airplanes. Between 7 and 8 o’clock we find a curious detail, the inscription “Al,” which almost secretly confirms the presence of aluminum.
The configuration reflects the classic bi-compax “big-eye” layout, with an oversized 15-minute counter at 3 o’clock. The hands, also made of 18-carat gold, are syringe-shaped, while the small minute hand is teardrop-shaped. All elements including the 10 luminescent Arabic numerals are coated in beige Super-LumiNova, and also on the dial we find the Breguet logo this time, applied in gold.
The second, limited to 250 pieces, is a total novelty for Breguet. Its dial is in fact made of 925 silver with vertical hand satin-finishing on which are applied gold baton hour markers and Arabic numerals. Unlike the previous version it features an atypical configuration with: symmetrical counters, internal tachymeter scale and gladius hands also in gold. Completing the watch are the blued seconds hand and the blue “retour en vol” inscription along with the applied Breguet logo.
Beneath the screw-down case back, fitted with sapphire crystal, are the manual calibers 7279 (for the black version) and 7278 (for the silver version), directly originated from the automatic caliber 728. Outstanding performance with 60-hour reserve, 5 Hz frequency, flat silicon balance spring, flyback and column wheel. And that’s not all, the main bridge bears one of the most fascinating details of these timepieces, a hand-engraving paying homage to the Breguet 19 – the plane that starred in the 1930 Atlantic crossing by Costes-Bellonte.
Conclusions and Price
With the new 250th anniversary Type XX 2075, Breguet offers two very distinct interpretations of a watchmaking milestone. One version looks to the past, rereading the 1955 prototype, while the other turns toward a more modern language.
Their price lists are respectively €43,400 for the black anodized aluminum dial version (ref. 2075BH/99/398) and €45,200 for the limited edition of 250 in 925 silver (ref. 2075BH/G9/398)
The 2023 generation had raised perplexities among some of the brand’s historical enthusiasts and collectors both in its proportions: with a diameter of 42 mm and a thickness of 14.1 mm, the Type XX automatic was rather imposing on the wrist, and because of the presence of the date – perceived as an element not in line with the model’s DNA. Instead, the new 2075 references mark an important step for the collection by responding in a direct and almost “philological” way to these observations with: reduced dimensions, absence of the date display, manual caliber and even greater care in finishing. A rebirth that is consistent, authentic and firmly anchored in its roots!
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