Since the creation of the earliest timepieces, the goal of excelling in chronometric function has always been a staple for watchmakers. As early as the 18th century, this desire for excellence fueled competition among masters, leading to the emergence of observatories capable of testing different creations and competitions that showcased their achievements.
In this landscape, the most important observatories soon became those in Geneva, Neuchâtel, Besançon and Kew, becoming synonymous with impartial, high-quality judgment.
This competition interested the watchmaking industry for a long time, only to diminish considerably over the years, mainly because of the greater precision of quartz watches, but also because of the birth of the COSC (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres), which defined the criteria necessary for a chronometer to be certified.
In this article we will discover and analyze some of the symbols that, over the years, have become synonymous with quality in terms of reliability and accuracy of gauges, being proudly engraved on them to highlight their achievements.
Hallmark of Geneva
The Poinçon de Genève, also known as the Hallmark of Geneva, is a watchmaking seal of quality established in 1886 by the Grand Council of the Canton of Geneva. From its conception, this certification was intended to represent a standard of excellence, the pinnacle of Geneva’s fine watchmaking, guaranteeing its provenance.
Since 2009, the office in charge of this has been part of TIMELAB, the Geneva Watchmaking and Microengineering Laboratory, a role until then reserved for the Geneva Watchmaking School. A prerequisite for obtaining this certification is that the company be registered in the Canton of Geneva, where the assembly, adjustment and casing of the movement, including any additional mechanical modules, must also be carried out.
Some historic brands that, by meeting the twelve criteria of the Hallmark, can boast this important certification include Cartier, Chopard, Roger Dubuis, Vacheron Constantin, and Louis Vuitton, among others. It is possible to find the hallmark engraved on some Patek Philippe movements produced until 2009, as these two were linked for a long time before the Geneva-based maison decided to establish its own seal of quality, introducing new criteria.
To meet these standards, the Poinçon de Genève was further updated in 2009, incorporating some of the criteria already introduced by Patek Philippe. New features include tests on the watch’s water resistance, precision and power reserve.
Fleurier Quality Foundation (FQF)
Another certification similar to the one just seen is Fleurier Quality, created in 2001 by Chopard, Parmigiani and Bovet, which was later joined by Vaucher Manufacture, an independent manufacture that works with various brands (including Parmigiani and Richard Mille). What makes these tests particularly interesting is the breadth and thoroughness of the test criteria and stages, as well as the meticulous control of the quality of the finish and the robustness of the watch.
“Qualité Fleurier” tests have, since 2001, been far stricter than average, effectively imposing new minimum criteria on competitors as well. But what does the FQF require? First, the watch must be entirely made in Switzerland; the foundation checks the quality of the finishing, while the Chronofiable test evaluates the technical conception. Finally, each fully assembled watch must pass COSC tests and the Fleuritest, which simulates typical watch movements for 24 hours when worn.
Internal brand certifications
As happened with the Hallmark of Geneva, some brands-for example, Patek Philippe-have preferred not to rely on external controls, establishing their own criteria for excellence in-house.
Indeed, since 2009 it has been possible to find a shield engraved on Patek movements with a double “P,” the brand’s symbol, indicating that the watch has been awarded the Patek Philippe Seal. The maison, which has always been linked to the Hallmark of Geneva, wanted even more demanding criteria; moreover, the construction of new factories outside the Canton of Geneva made it complex to comply with the territorial constraints of the Hallmark of Geneva. The Patek Philippe Seal covers the entire watch, not just the movement, an approach also introduced by the Hallmark of Geneva in 2012.
Another industry giant, Jaeger-LeCoultre, in 2004, introduced a test lasting about six weeks, called 1000 hours, which evaluates running accuracy in different positions and at different temperatures, as well as power reserve and water resistance.
Also within the Richemont Group, Montblanc has followed Jaeger-LeCoultre’s example by introducing a 500-hour certificate for a portion of its production.
Conclusion
Today these certifications look quite similar to each other, having over time helped raise the standards of precision and quality of both calibres and complete watches. However, they are not only about care in finishing, but also represent the entire industry’s commitment to constant improvement.
Visit our Youtube channel to experience the best of the world of watchmaking firsthand.
For all real-time updates follow us on Instagram.
Source:
Monochrome – A guide to certifications and quality seals
