If we’ve learned one thing over our 3 years in IWS, it’s that you guys love the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch and all of its iterations, so hopefully, now, you’ll love it even more now that it has its own Master Chronometer Certification.
Today, we’d like to briefly talk to you about this new release and what novelties it brings to the table.
This article builds upon our latest Speedmaster video: if you would like to have a quick look, click play below!
So, what’s new?
Before briefly outlining the different iterations of the 2021 lineup, let’s focus on the most significant “all-new” aspect: the caliber 3861!
As we explained in our video, we think this new movement is hugely significant for various reasons.
Number one, it’s the first time we see Omega’s proprietary Co-Axial Escapement technology on the Moonwatch (although it features on many other modern Omega timepieces).
Second, to compliment this technical innovation, at first glance we can immediately see the improved level of finishing and attention to detail and aesthetics when it comes to the movment.
Last, but certainly not least, the new caliber 3861 of the Omega Speedmaster boasts a Master Chronometer Certification!
What does this certification mean? A quick summary
The Master Chronometer certification is unlike any other certification in horology in that it is both a testament to the timepiece’s precision just as much as it is a measure of its antimagnetic properties, meaning that it examines the entire watch, and not just the movement.
In order to achieve this title, the timepiece needs to undergo 8 different COSC-grade tests. As well as this, it must fulfil other criteria which you can read about here.
Fun fact: there is a section of Omega’s website where you can view all the test results and metrics that each Master Chronometer certified Omega watch underwent.
The 3 (well, not quite) versions of the 2021 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch
To the untrained eye, it would appear that there are only 3 new models. However, if we take a closer look, you’ll see that there are actually 4. Indeed, there are two steel models, and two gold models (Sedna and Canopus).
Sedna Gold Speedmaster
Although it is viewed very favourably amongst collectors, this iteration is my least favourite out of the new collection.
For those who haven’t come across the term before, Sedna gold is Omega’s proprietary rose gold alloy which blends gold, copper and palladium to give a long-lasting rosy and reddish hue.
It’s my “least” favourite is simply because I haven’t seen it up close nor wore it on my wrist. However, I certainly would love to have my mind changed!
Canopus Gold Speedmaster
The other gold model, on the other hand, is the real winner.
I’ve said this many times before, and will say this many times more: this is perhaps the best Speedmaster I’ve seen in the past 5 years!
If we really have to find a flaw, we would say that it’s not exactly light. However, this extra weight is certainly offset by just how gorgeous it looks.
The Canopus gold version is undoubtedly my favourite Speedmaster from the 2021 lineup… and it’s not even close. And this is also due to details such as applied logo and indices. That’s what I call true luxury.
Like Sedna, Canopus gold is another proprietary Omega alloy – it’s their take on white gold: more shiny and durable at the same time.
Fun fact pt. 2: it’s named after the second brightest star in the night sky!
Steel Speedmaster
As we mentioned before, there are two versions of the new steel Speedmaster: one with a Hesalite Crystal, and one with a Sapphire one.
The type of glass isn’t the only aspect which sets them apart as they have several contrasting features. However, there are indeed similarities between them, too: let’s have a look.
From a graphics, writings and signatures perspective, we find what we are normally used to when we think “Speedmaster”. However, Omega have made (in my opinion) a clever move by executing these details in a way which harkens back to the Speedmasters of the past.
Other common features include the DON (Dot Over Ninety) bezel and the stepped subdials, which emphasize the multi-layer manufacturing method. These are just some of the vintage-inspired design features that make this new line so beloved by collectors.
The Hesalite Crystal Moonwatch
This is the “more historically accurate” Speedmaster, often referred to as the “real” Speedmaster. This version has a totally satin-finished bracelet and a closed caseback which contains the classic Speedmaster lores. Normally, I would say that I prefer the Hesalite Crystal version. No and would advise those who are looking to buy a Speedmaster to purchase this version. However, I think that this time around I may have to make an exception…
The Sapphire Crystal Moonwatch
The Sapphire Crystal version – usually – would play second fiddle to the Hesalite version. However, if the past year has shown us anything, it’s that unusual is the new normal. This time, Omega has made it the star of the show, for two main reasons.
First, the applied logo on the sapphire crystal version is a “premium”, or “luxurious” design aspect which is much more appealing to both old and new Speedmaster collectors alike, and more desirable than the printed logo of the hesalite model.
Second, the clear caseback, to me, underlines Omega’s intention promoting the all new caliber 3861. Thanks to this design feature, the wearer or admirer has an uncompromised view of the spectacularly finished co-axial movement.
Omega has brought another novelty to the table in that now both versions will utilise this specially made caliber 3861. In the past, the two different versions had their own movements (1861 vs. 1863).
In conclusion…
I was really pleased to see Omega make bold moves and experiment with their two precious metals.
Steel is, has been, and perhaps always will be the protagonist when it comes to the Speedmaster. That being said, I was very glad to see something new with this model: bringing tasteful luxury to the line.
Speaking of steel, so far I’ve heard many different opinions, but most of them take a firm stance (either they love the vintage-inspired details, or they hate them), and very few remaining indifferent. The only real flaw that I could point out with the steel models in general is the bracelet. For both variants, I got the impression that it was slightly weaker compared to its predecessors. This might be the tradeoff for better looks!
There are no radical features within this line, but then again, I don’t think anyone was expecting there to be. However, from a technical point of view, this watch has been very impactful in both the Speedmaster’s and Omega’s lineage. With these technical innovations, naturally, comes a slightly higher retail price, but overall, we really cannot complain in the slightest!
If you haven’t watched it already, take a look at the full-length video we shot the other week, where we discuss the 2021 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch!
– Translated by Patrick R.
