In Italy we find ourselves amidst some difficult times, characterised by self isolation and social distancing. But not to worry: during this qurantine, at ItalianWatchSpotter we have decided to keep you all entertained with our articles – or as we like to call it – “Quarantine Content”. Today, we’ll introduce you to one of the most iconic, important and stylish watches made for women: the Panthère de Cartier.
Their Origins
The Panther has always been an animal and symbol associated with the Cartier brand. The use of it dates back to 1914, when Louis Cartier became a patron of George Barbier, a well respected French illustrator. He commissioned him for a painting of a woman alongside a Panther: this artwork was to be printed onto a formal invitation pamphlet to a fine horology exhibition.
Cartier was so mesmerised by the sheer elegance of the big cat to the point where he made the Panther as the symbol of the brand. A few months later, the Parisian maison releasd the first Panthère wristwatch: characterised by the generous use of diamonds and onyx, reflecting the Panther’s majestic and sleek appearance.
Cartier presented the first “commercial” line of the Panthère back in 1983. It immediately became not only a flagship model for the maison, but for the entire watch industry thanks to its radically new design elements such as its case shape, and its use of a modern quartz movement. Remember, we were at the height of the “quartz crisis”, where traditional mechanical movements were being pushed out of the spotlight by more accurate – but less fascinating – quartz ones.
When launched in the ’80s, this model was meant to cater for many different wrists. In fact it came in four different sizes: mini, small, medium and large, meaning that it was meant to be worn by both men and women alike. This was also in part thanks to its very meticulously calculated designs, allowing it to be worn comfortably as an everyday watch. The bracelet was unmistakeably Cartier, being called the Panthère mesh, an arrangement of links that wrapped softly around the wrist. This was a common trait from jewellery from the 1980s.
On famous wrists
The success of the Panthère was manifested by its popularity amongst celebrities: if they were wearing it, you wanted to have it, too. The Cartier timepiece became somewhat of a cult item, a status symbol synonymous with luxury and glamour. Many celebrities were – and still are – owners of this iconic model. It was worn by the likes of pop stars such as Madonna during her relationship with Carlos Leon, and famous actresses like Gwyneth Paltrow, the latter of whom could be frequently spotted with a yellow gold Panthère on her wrist.
From female wrists… to mens’!
The American-Irish actor Pierce Brosnan, as well as the Rolling Stones’ guitarist Keith Richards, were immortalised with the mighty Panthère on their wrists. This was and is a testament to how watches which were orignally targeted at womens’ wrists can be worn by men, and not only the other way around.
Today’s Panthère
After a brief production hiatus beginning in 2004, the Panthère had a Rennaissance in 2017.
They say “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it”, and this was the exact logic that Cartier applied: given the success that it had in the 1980s, the French maison made very few and subtle modifications. The main variation was the size: now, the Panthère only comes in two of them; 22mm or 27mm, a change indicating that this watch was exclusively made for women.
The case is complete with a screw-down bezel, a common trait for the Cartier lines like the famous Santos de Cartier. A timeless sapphire-cut Cartier Cabochon finishes the crown, protected by curvacious crown guards. The bracelet is the same beloved Panthère mesh from back in the day, with the same soft feeling as if it were a haute-jewellery bracelet. A final touch to the piece is visible at 10 o’clock: a very subtle and tasteful insertion of the name of the brand in the “X” numeral.
The Parisian house released three versions: gold, steel, or a mix of both.
As well as the above features, Cartier wanted to pay homage to the famous feline. They did this through the very tasteful use of black lacquer to create a spotted effect on select models.
Another peculiar iteration of the Panthère is the Panthère de Cartier Manchette. In this configuration, the bracelet is quite large and wide, as well as the dial being offset from its centre. The mesh is has patterned perforations throughout, not only created a spotted effect as above, but also to prevent the watch from looking gaudy.
Its place in history
The Panthère is undoubtedly a piece that belongs in the horological hall of fame. Although it may house a quartz movement, it is a unique model, rich with history and charm for enthusiasts. When you really look at it, the Panthère de Cartier is an unprecedented and irreplicable crossroad where female horology meets the world of jewellery.
– Translated by Patrick R.
