In December last year, the watchmaking world was surprised by news as exciting as it was unexpected: Breitling expanded its portfolio by acquiring the historic Universal Genève. The stated goal is to revive a brand historically known for its excellence and innovativeness in watchmaking.
Relaunching a maison so important and rooted in the watchmaking history of the last century is certainly no easy feat. However, by drawing on the great icons of the past and reinterpreting them in a modern key, Universal Genève seems to have a solid foundation to reassert itself in the Olympus of watchmaking, even contemporary watchmaking.
And it is by looking to the past that the brand found inspiration for its first models launched after this rebirth: three modern interpretations of the legendary Polerouter.
Starting over from an icon: Universal Genève Polerouter
The watch chosen to mark Universal Genève’s new beginning is the Polerouter, one of young Gérald Genta‘s most iconic creations. Designed in 1953, when the designer was just 23 years old, this timepiece quickly became a symbol of the brand, entering watchmaking history.
The Polerouter is distinguished by its revolutionary three-dimensional design, the result of an innovative two-component approach: a tension ring with hour markers attached directly to the glass and a curved dial designed to protect the inner movement. This solution, patented in the same year of launch, represented a genuine technical and aesthetic innovation for the time.
The first 170 pieces, now highly sought after by collectors, were mostly donated to SAS (Scandinavian Airlines System) pilots, underscoring the connection between the brand and the airline. The Polerouter, originally known as the Polarouter, celebrated SAS transpolar flights, establishing a deep connection between watchmaking and aviation.
Three new Universal Genève Polerouters to celebrate SAS.
On the occasion of the 70th anniversary of SAS’s first transpolar flight on November 15, 1954, Universal Genève presents three new tribute models with 35 mm diameter cases, matching the first models in the collection. This historic flight greatly reduced travel time between Copenhagen and Los Angeles, opening a new era in air transportation. The new timepieces are not only a tribute to the past, but also represent the relaunch of Universal Genève.
One of the distinctive features of these watches is the original Microtor caliber 1-69, an innovative movement introduced in the 1960s and famous for its subtlety and precision. This technical choice reinforces the link with the brand’s heritage while keeping intact the pioneering spirit that made the Polerouter an icon.
Universal Genève Polerouter in white gold: a unique specimen
Of the three models presented, the most exclusive is definitely the one with a bright blue dial, framed by a white gold case and bracelet. This timepiece pays homage to SAS with two logos positioned at the six o’clock position: the historical and contemporary logos of the airline. The vibrant and iconic blue of the dial echoes the distinctive color of SAS, giving the model a unique character.
Produced in one piece, this watch will be auctioned by Phillips in May 2025, with the aim of supporting CFP Arts in Geneva, a training center specializing in the applied arts. Proceeds from the auction will go to promote awareness of watchmaking savoir-faire among the younger generation, reinforcing Universal Genève’s commitment to the preservation of tradition.
The other two Universal Genève Polerouters: tributes to history and design
The other two tribute timepieces complete this special collection with a design that combines classic and modern elements. The first features a red gold case and details paired with an elegant black dial, offering a sophisticated look full of character. The second, in stainless steel, is distinguished by its red gold hands and logos, which stand out against a silver dial.
Both of these models, while retaining the original Polerouter aesthetic, incorporate details that celebrate the SAS connection and technical innovation that has characterized Universal Genève throughout its history.
Conclusion
The release of these three new Polerouters represents not only a tribute to Universal Genève’s rich history, also evidenced by its connection with the SAS company, but also a first step toward the brand’s much-desired rebirth among fans.
What will Universal Genève’s next step be, with an official launch scheduled for 2026?
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