Vintage watches to buy there are plenty, but which ones will really set you apart from all your friends?
Enough. They all wear the same things
The world of watchmaking in recent years has become particularly homogeneous, at the risk of becoming boring. Almost everyone wears the same watches, partly because of fashion and partly because of the watch-investment concept.
Vintage is a world that kids like us are discovering more and more. Although you might think that there are the usual watches only in the “modern” sector, it is actually the same for vintage watches as well. How many Daytonas and Submariners do you see a day? Probably a good 70-80% of the total, and this unfortunately overshadows those historical pieces that have a story to tell (as well as each having their own beauty).
These are 5 vintage watches to buy that will set you apart
In this article we want to speak to those who want to stand out, and at the same time are fascinated by vintage or neo-vintage watchmaking more than modern watchmaking.
What this world offers is variety, as well as low figures compared to models currently in production. You will be amazed when you compare certain historic pieces with the market prices at which the most emblazoned models are sold.
Let’s start
(If you happened upon this article but like modern ones, you can read our other selection here)
IWC Porsche Design Compass Ref. IW3510 | USD 3,500 – 5,500
The IWC Porsche Design Compass IW3510 is one of the most iconic references produced in the 1980s, featuring a black PVD-coated aluminum case. What makes this watch special is the hidden functionality that a button allows you to discover: the compass.
Below the hours minutes and seconds display is in fact an anti-magnetic compass, which will really make your watch unique. Overall it remains very light, being made of aluminum. The only flaw is the possibility of the PVD deteriorating or coming off in case of shocks, so it is always good to keep it carefully (if you care to keep the black color, otherwise use it as a battle watch).
The case size is 39mm, thus elegant and perfect for any wrist, while the IWC Cal.375 automatic mechanism beats inside.
Universal Geneve “Nina Rindt” Evil Nina Ref.885103/1 | USD 20,000
Evil Nina: the devilish Universal Geneve Compax with a black dial. A historic model was renamed “Nina Rindt” after being seen on the wrist of the wife of famous F1 driver Jochen Karl Rindt.
Nina wore it with a distinctive Bund strap, somewhat like Paul Newman and his 6239, a feature that never went unnoticed by the collections. Universal Geneve’s Compax is a purely 1970s watch, with three subdials and a black bakelite bezel. The similarities to Rolex’s Daytona 6241 are actually many, but this one is much more niche and cool to own.
The Evil Nina is the alter ego of the Universal Nina Rindt, identified by reference 885103/1, is distinguished by the dial configuration opposite to the model mentioned earlier. It is called Evil Nina therefore because of the reverse-panda dial and the addition of the diabolical red hand. In our opinion it represents one of the best vintage watches to buy to stand out. (You can read more about it in this article).
Piaget Polo Ref.14661 C701 | USD 8,000 – 9,000
We’ve been saying it for more than a year now, the Piaget Polo is the quintessential icon. Created in the 1980s, having a Polo on your wrist meant having the coolest watch of them all. There is no other vintage watch to buy but this one to stand out today.
The integrated metal bracelet continues with its lines on the dial as well, creating a continuous effect, as if it were a bracelet rather than a watch. Complementing this is the champagne dial, in yellow gold like everything else.
Most models have a quartz mechanism, consistent with the era, but an extremely small series mounted an automatic caliber. This is a feature that will allow you to stand out even more, although wearing a Polo will already say a lot about you.
Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref.3548 | USD 7,000 – 9,000
Elegance, exclusivity and beauty. Few watches can boast these adjectives, and one of those is the Patek Philippe Ellipse Ref. 3548, the first reference produced historically in 1XXX. The brand itself tells about it in its own advertisements from those years.
The case represents one of the most elegant shapes a dress watch can have, with no lugs or special details. Its restraint is exceptional with its own blue dial, while the choice of case metal can certainly depend on personal taste. An XXX in white gold can be a beautiful option, to stand out even more from the classic yellow gold-blue dial.
In our opinion, this Patek undoubtedly falls within the vintage watches to buy.
Breguet Chronograph Ref.3237 | USD 25,000
We have talked about it on YouTube several times, the Breguet brand is currently one of the most underrated and least in vogue among young people, but one that we think may represent the ultimate in watchmaking.
Without going back to the 1800s, in the 1970s-80s, the Maison was relaunched under the ownership of Chaumet, two jeweler brothers who still operate today. It was a difficult time, where the quartz crisis was destroying the entire mechanical watchmaking industry, bringing Swiss brands to their knees or putting them out of business.
In the case of Breguet, at that time Daniel Roth, a truly outstanding independent watchmaker, took over as creative director and was responsible for creating the brand’s most collectible wristwatches, including the Breguet Chronograph Ref. 3237 .
A chronograph with a Lemania-based mechanism (exactly like the famous Patek 5070), with absolute sobriety: a coin case with a stunning guilloché dial above it, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock. In general, among vintage watches to buy, Breguet is still one of the most underrated.
Final remarks
With these two articles (the present one on vintage and this one on modern) we want to give you some ideas for having watches to buy that will set you apart from all your friends or relatives…yes, because imagine being able to tell the story of one of these watches at the dinner table when everyone has the usual Submariner…the spotlight is assured.
We are curious to know what you think of this selection and if you have any suggestions for other watches to be included. Working closely with watches and trying to pass on this passion, we also feel obliged to be a bit of an early promoter of watches that are different from the usual.
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