The rebirth of the DANIEL ROTH brand at the hands of the LVMH Group represents one of the most significant events in recent years for independent watchmaking.
Last year, in fact, Michael Navas and Enrico Barbasini, founders of Fabrique du Temps, now also part of the LVMH group, relaunched the brand by staying true to the interpretations born from the mind of Daniel Roth, first with Breguet, and later with his own independent brand since 1988.
The first timepiece of this new era was the Tourbillon Souscription, which, by staying true to the C187 reference that has become iconic for Roth, managed to attract much media and enthusiast attention to the new design. Only twenty pieces were produced, all of which were immediately received with enthusiasm.
At this edition of Geneva Watch Days, the brand presented a new interpretation of the Tourbillon in rose gold that confirms, after the Souscription model, this renaissance.
The differences between the new DANIEL ROTH Tourbillon and the previous Souscription
The model just unveiled in Geneva introduces some substantial differences from last year’s version. The first novelty is the case material, made of rose gold. This choice, different from the vintage references, offers a touch of originality and modernity. The dial, in rose gold, is also embellished with a guilloché made by Kari Voutilainen’s workshop, characterized this time by a vertical motif, in contrast to the Clous de Paris used for the Souscription model.
The rose gold parts create an elegant contrast with the hour and minute ring, as well as the seconds marked by the Tourbillon case, which are made of 925 sterling silver. This contrast not only enhances the beauty of the watch, but also adds a three-dimensional feel, a distinctive feature of the models created by the master.
The hands, hour markers, the brand name and the model number are lacquered in black, providing an additional detachment from the rest of the dial and giving the watch a sophisticated and well-balanced appearance.
The DR001 Caliber
Another difference from the Souscription model, is the transparent sapphire crystal case back, which allows a direct view of the DR001 movement, developed by La Fabrique du Temps. This hand-wound caliber, offers a power reserve of 80 hours and features top-notch workmanship and finishing: in addition to a Côtes-de-Genève, it is possible to appreciate splendid internal and external anglages on the bridges, as well as mirror polishing on the winding barrel and tourbillon cage.
In addition to being a novelty compared to the watch presented last year, this choice is a departure from the reference C187, as Roth used to place additional indications for the watch, such as the power reserve and the day of the month, on the caseback. This choice reflected the watchmaker’s desire to provide additional information to the owner without making the dial too crowded, inviting him to turn the watch over in the morning to wind it and check the day of the month.
Final thoughts
The model presented at Geneva Watch Days, confirms how much La Fabrique du Temps and LVMH believe in Daniel Roth’s revival project while remaining faithful to the philosophy of the independent watchmaker. The Tourbillon is perhaps the most distinctive element of the master’s creations, and after the Souscription model, this new model represents the perfect modern interpretation of the historic references of the past.
For the future, we expect an intriguing new complication reinterpreted in a modern key, perhaps a chronograph?
Price and availability of the new Daniel Roth Tourbillon in rose gold
The watch will soon be available in selected boutiques and will be priced, excluding tax, at CHF 155,000, corresponding to approximately EUR 165,000.
No more than 50 examples will be produced in the coming year, and the numbering on the dial, also typical of vintage models, will resume from the number 21, considering the limited models produced for the Souscription model.
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