Independent watchmakers are some of the watch world’s best kept secrets, known and appreciated by only true connoisseurs and collectors. Some countries have a better understanding of these brands than others, but Italy isn’t one of them. Independent watchmakers aren’t all too well known here, especially amongst our younger generation.
Within the IWS team, though, we talk about them fairly often. With every new release, there’s always a debate as to who’s the “craziest“, or “most visionary“. But then, when we talk about it publicly – say – to our Instagram followers, we don’t find this same enthusiasm.
Why? It’s simple, really: independent watchmakers aren’t as well known.
From time to time we also notice some comments which are rather rude towards independent watchmakers. However, this disrespect is probably due to a lack of awareness and understanding.
So, today, IWS is here to talk to you about independent watchmakers. We would like to point out that we’re not trying to convince you to buy them or anything like that. We are merely attempting to inform you of the presence of this world, as an introduction of sorts.
Everyone has their own tastes, but who knows, an independent might steal your heart, just like FP Journe stole ours!
Without further ado, let’s begin!
Who are Independent Watchmakers?
We imagine that you might be thinking: “independent watchmakers… independent from just what exactly?“
Let’s define that straight away, so that we are all on the same page.
“Independent watchmaker” is the umbrella term used for brands which are not owned by the large luxury conglomerates such as LVMH, Richemont or the Swatch Group.
Surely by that same logic, Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet are independent brands, too?
Well, yes and no. The term is normally reserved for brands, or watchmakers which have created their own company from the year 2000 onwards.
One immediate example which is normally synonymous with this term is the aforementioned FP Journe. This is a company which was co founded by François-Paul Journe.
Another example would be David Zanetta and Denis Flageollet’s De Bethune brand (which we talked about here and here). Then, we have Maximillian Busser, who, along with his friends set up the MB&F brand. We also have Roger Smith – George Daniels’ illustrious apprentice. These are just some of the modern independent watchmakers who are driving this industry, and writing history whilst they’re at it.
What do Independent Watchmakers do different to the rest?
This is where the biggest difference lies: what they do, and how they do it.
Whereas the “big brands” have production philosophies which are by and large driven by strategic marketing, independent watchmakers manufacture hyper-limited timepieces of superlative and unparalleled quality, each which their own distinctive and totally unique character.
In two (or three) words we could say that this sector boils down to creativity and artisanship.
Why? Because, the whole aura and prestige that comes with these types of watches stems from the technologically brilliant movements and masterful manual crafstmanship which goes into making them.
Just to give you an idea of how meticulous this world is: the type and level of the finishings alone is a huge topic of discussion amongst independent enthusiasts. The likes Philip Dufour, Romain Gauthier and De Bethune all have their own techniques.
With creativity and artisanship comes great artistic liberty. A large portion of the independent watch world could be characterised as an experimental design playground, filled with unconventional and extraordinary (in the very sense of the word) aesthetics. And no one does it quite like the good folks at Urwerk, or MB&F: these guys don’t even know what the word “conventional” even means – from the shape of the case, to how the time is displayed, they truly go their own way.
And then, there’s the whole engineering side of things. This is where independent watchmakers such as F. P. Journe truly shine: Journe has an unmatched level of attention to detail when it comes to creative and inventive mechanisms. Just have a look at the movement of the Tourbillon Souverain Vertical below – a watch which we talked about here.
So, essentially, the biggest differences between independent and “regular” horology are: the level of quality (incredibly fine); in their designs (very peculiar, best described as unconventional); in their movements (often ground-breakingly innovative); and in their production numbers (extremely limited).
So, why do they do it?
So, we’ve established the main differences. But, why do they exist? Why do they do things differently? It’s the last question we’re going to answer, and it’s perhaps the most important one.
Independent watchmakers are driven by an incredibly deep and unique devotion to horology which speaks to them on a personal level. Denis Flageollet – the co-founder of the De Bethune watch company – for example, lives and breathes by the motto “don’t necessarily do more, but do better”: a saying which is reflected within De Bethune timepieces.
When instead we look at Maximilian Büsser’s source of motivation, his rebellious personality and desire to “break the chains of traditionalism” are two qualities that you can immediately identify when you meet him. He went on to create his MB&F watchmaking company, but whose spirit extends well beyond watchmaking.
Final Remarks
We could spend all day talking about independent watchmakers: from their motivations, concepts and techniques. In summary, we could say that each of them make exquisite timepieces, each with a totally unique character – and with aesthetics we’re willing to be you’ve never seen before. In this world, everybody knows the rules, but they don’t pay them any mind!
Which independent watchmaker has fascinated you the most thus far? Do you know one which we don’t? Let us know in the comments!
Translated by: Patrick R.
