DON. Three letters that, when it comes to the Speedmaster, open up a world of models, bezels, and production years. Today, that “Dot Over Ninety” design is also available on the 38 mm Speedmaster, along with a series of updates that bring the collection closer to the Moonwatch’s aesthetic codes while maintaining its own distinct size.
The sub-dials have moved away from their previous oval shape and are now circular; the lettering on the dial has been scaled down; the bezel stands out more prominently; and a new five-link bracelet adorns the wrist. There are seven new models, all 38 mm in diameter, which further highlight the connection to OMEGA’s most famous chronograph.
The 38 mm Speedmaster, after all, has always interpreted that legacy with a certain degree of freedom. It is the model that, over the years, has embraced the “cappuccino” color, Sedna™ Gold, mother-of-pearl, diamonds, and color combinations far removed from the Professional’s austere style. Automatic, compact, and capable of transitioning effortlessly from a sporty look to a more refined one, it has carved out a very specific place within the family.
The new collection builds on this identity and reinterprets some of its features. This is immediately apparent in the most purist model of all: stainless steel, black dial, black bezel, white Super-LumiNova, and no date.
At first glance, it’s unmistakably a Speedmaster. Then come the lacquered white and blue, silver and Sedna™ Gold, green with Moonshine™ Gold, cappuccino, ice blue, and mother-of-pearl.
Let’s find out about them!
A New Look for the 38-mm Speedmaster
The most significant change involves the dial.
The counters are now circular. A change that takes up just a few words on paper, but one that significantly alters the watch’s appearance. The design appears more in line with the Speedmaster tradition and also benefits from the reduction in lettering, which is particularly noticeable on a compact 38 mm dial.
The thicker bezel features the famous “Dot Over Ninety.” The dot above the number 90 is one of the most recognizable details in the history of the Speedmaster and is a hallmark of some of the most famous vintage models. Its inclusion on the new 38 mm model provides a clear nod to that heritage, without forcing the rest of the watch to take on a retro look.
The bracelet is also new. The five-link design, inspired by the Moonwatch, alternates between polished and brushed finishes depending on the model, completing a refresh that encompasses the entire watch, from the dial to the wrist.
The 38 mm model takes on a more distinctly Speedmaster-like presence; its colors, materials, and finishes continue to give it the freedom that has long set it apart within the collection.
Two Co-Axial Models: 3330 and 3332
OMEGA equips six of the seven new models with the Co-Axial 3330 automatic caliber, which includes a date display. The black dial without a date, on the other hand, features the Co-Axial 3332, which is exclusive to this model.
More than the different logo, it is the absence of the window that changes the look of the black model. The dial remains perfectly seamless, and the new circular sub-dials stand out more prominently, accentuated by the sharp contrast between the matte background and the white markings.
Black dial: the 38 mm in its most Speedmaster form
It is probably the model that best illustrates the new direction of the 38 mm line.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.30.38.50.01.002 | Credit: OMEGA
Black aluminum bezel, black-painted dial with a matte finish, hands and hour markers coated with white Super-LumiNova. The Co-Axial 3332 movement eliminates the need for a date window, allowing the tricompax layout to take center stage.
The bracelet alternates three rows of brushed links with two thinner, polished rows. This detail tempers the starkness of the black with a meticulous attention to surface finish that complements the personality of the 38 mm model.
A close-up of the black painted dial with a matte finish | Credits: OMEGA
At €6,500, it also serves as the entry point to the new collection. The resemblance to the Moonwatch is immediately apparent, but its proportions, automatic movement, and bracelet give it a distinct identity.
White lacquer and blue: a more contemporary take
Just switch to the second steel version, and the atmosphere changes completely.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.30.38.50.04.001 | Credit: OMEGA
The white lacquered dial features hands and hour markers with a blue CVD coating, a shade that is also carefully echoed in the numerals of the date window. Surrounding it is a blue ceramic bezel with a white enamel tachymeter scale.
The contrast is crisp, sharp, almost graphic. The ceramic adds depth to the bezel, while the white color really highlights the new circular design of the dials.
A close-up of the white lacquered dial with blue CVD-coated hands and hour markers | Credit: OMEGA
It’s one of the combinations that best showcases the versatility of the 38 mm model: the Speedmaster design remains unmistakable, while the color scheme completely changes the watch’s overall look.
Silver Meets Gold Sedna™
The other stainless steel model is more subtle, featuring a silver opaline PVD dial and a warm gray aluminum bezel.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.30.38.50.04.003 | Credits: OMEGA
OMEGA uses Sedna™ gold hands with a PVD coating and baton hour markers filled with white Super-LumiNova; the sub-dials feature hands with a brown PVD coating and Sedna™ gold.
Here, the appeal lies precisely in the color palette. Silver, gray, brown, and the rosy hues of Sedna™ avoid overly sharp contrasts and complement the Speedmaster 38 mm’s more elegant side with remarkable naturalness.
A close-up of the opaline silver dial and hands, with Sedna™ gold hour markers featuring a PVD coating | Credits: OMEGA
The two steel models in the new collection are available for €6,600 each for the Ref. 324.30.38.50.04.003 and €7,000 for the Ref. 324.30.38.50.04.001
Moonshine™ Gold and Green for the first two-tone design
The first two-tone model introduces one of the most striking color combinations in the new series.
The stainless steel case is complemented by a polished 18K Moonshine™ Gold bezel, featuring a green aluminum insert and a yellow gold tachymeter scale. The silver opaline PVD dial echoes the precious metal on the hands, while the baton hour markers are filled with white Super-LumiNova.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.20.38.50.02.001 | Credit: OMEGA
The Moonshine™ Gold extends all the way to the bracelet, where OMEGA uses it for the smaller links. This creates a particularly harmonious transition from the bezel to the wrist.
The price is €11,600.
A close-up of the opaline silver dial with hands and hour markers in 18K Moonshine™ Gold | Credits: OMEGA
The green has enough depth to complement the gold without overpowering the silver dial. It’s certainly a luxurious combination, yet it remains very legible as a Speedmaster.
Sedna™ Gold and the Return of the “Cappuccino”
Among the many new color options, there’s also a comeback that needs no introduction on the Speedmaster 38 mm.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.20.38.50.02.002 | Credit: OMEGA
Ivory and brown: the cappuccino! The ivory colored dial is accented by sub-dials with a brown PVD coating; the polished bezel is crafted from 18K Sedna™ Gold, paired with a brown aluminum insert. Even the smallest links of the bracelet are made of Sedna™ Gold.
The watch is priced at €11,600.
A close-up of the ivory dial with brown sub-dials and hands, and 18K Sedna™ Gold hour markers | Credit: OMEGA
This is perhaps the model that best illustrates the transition between the two generations. The color scheme is quintessentially that of the 38 mm model, while the circular sub-dials, new bezel, and bracelet give it a modern look. There’s no need to look elsewhere for references: here, the legacy is already that of the Speedmaster 38 mm.
52 diamonds for the ice blue and mop versions
The last two models showcase the most exquisite aspect of the collection , featuring a bezel set with 52 diamonds totaling 1.53 carats.
The ref. 324.15.38.50.03.001, priced at €12,200, features a dial with an ice-blue PVD coating. The 324.15.38.50.05.001, priced at €13,000, instead showcases the natural iridescence of white mother-of-pearl.
The new OMEGA Speedmaster 38 mm, Ref. 324.15.38.50.03.001 and Ref. 324.15.38.50.05.001 | Credits: OMEGA
Both feature rhodium-plated hands and baton hour markers filled with white Super-LumiNova.
Diamonds alter the watch’s luminosity even more than the dial’s color does. Against the ice-blue background, the result is fresher and more contemporary; mother-of-pearl, on the other hand, plays on its natural veining, making every reflection inevitably unique.
Close-up of the dials with Azzurro PVD coating and mother-of-pearl | Credits: OMEGA
Even in the two gem-set variations, the design elements recently introduced in the collection remain prominent, and this is perhaps the most effective way to appreciate just how versatile and diverse the Speedmaster 38 mm’s identity is.
Seven new 38 mm Speedmasters, staying true to their roots
The new 38-mm Speedmaster has changed in the ways that matter most. The sub-dials are now circular, the lettering is more understated, the bezel stands out more, and the new five-link bracelet brings back another familiar element from the Speedmaster’s history. Amid all this, the DON takes up just a few millimeters and is inevitably the detail that brings a smile to our faces. A single dot on the tachymeter scale is enough to evoke decades of models, bezels, and Speedmasters that have passed through the hands of collectors.
Then everyone will find their own 38mm.
There’s the undated black model for 6,500 euros, probably the one we’d put on our wrist first. The white lacquered model with blue creates a completely different vibe; silver and Sedna™ Gold play with warmer tones. We see the return of cappuccino, now a staple of the 38’s history, while Moonshine™ Gold and green introduce a fresh combination. Finally, the ice blue and mother-of-pearl models feature 52 diamonds totaling 1.53 carats on the bezel, priced at 12,200 and 13,000 euros, respectively.
Seven 38 mm Speedmasters, ranging from matte black to mother-of-pearl—all share a design that is now even more closely aligned with the hallmarks that have shaped the Speedmaster’s identity.
The 38 remains the 38: automatic, compact, free in its choice of colors and materials, capable of incorporating gold and diamonds with a natural ease all its own. Today, however, a single glance at the sub-dials, the bezel, or the bracelet is enough to make the name on the dial resonate even more strongly.
And that point remains above 90. It’s very small, just like the details on a Speedmaster that often end up mattering the most.
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