Watches & Wonders 2023 comes to life with Cartier’s never-before-seen creations, from the Santos collection to Fine Jewellery, from the Tank to the Collection Privé. In this article we go through the latter, with new versions of the Tank Normal.
Le rarità del passato nella Collection Privé
There are brands that must rely on one or a few iconic models, while Cartier has so many treasures in its archives that each year it can choose which rarity to bring back to life.
Collection Privé was created with this very intention: a way to remember the legends of the past, but in limited and numbered series. There is a fine line between being nostalgic for the past, creating continuous reissues as unique workhorses, and instead creating capsules like these, which tell the brand’s story with exclusivity.
The last 6 creations were in succession the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, Asymétrique, Cloche, and Tank Chinoise. Last year the Maison had found inspiration in Asian architecture, bringing it back in a Tank Chinoise skeleton and lacquered dial, or in a more classic version with a dial with Roman numerals.
The Cartier Privé Tank Normale
Some really interesting new Tank Normale watches were unveiled at the Watches & Wonders 2023 fair, joining the rarities of the Collection Privé. People often position this watch as an ancestor of the Cintrée, which bears many similar features, from the brancards on the case to the chemin de fer on the dial, i.e., the chapter ring.
The Tank Normale is an extremely elegant and understated version that differs in that it has a flat, squarish case, compared to Louis Cartier models that instead have softer, sleeker lines. Seven different configurations have been created for the occasion: two in platinum or yellow gold with a metal bracelet, two in the same configuration but with an alligator strap, and finally three skeletonized versions including 1 gem-set.
For the first time in the Cartier Privé collection, two metal bracelets with seven fine links appear, echoing a 1970s style.
The new bracelet version is sure to make the eyes sparkle for those who follow Goldberger on Instagram, which often delivers excitement with its Cartier-related postings. These models from the past are among the most collectible and rare created; the platinum ones are all the more grail for those who love the Maison.
Going into the differences in more detail, we notice blued hands for the 18kt. yellow gold version and steel hands for the platinum model, giving it a monochromatic look. On the crown we have the classic sapphire cabochon in the gold and a ruby in the platinum.
Skeleton and complicated versions of Tank Normale
Don’t be fooled by the model’s name, because the skeletonized Tank Normale is anything but “normal.” A common thread we find in previous editions of the most recent Collection Privé is the duality of interpretations: one classic and more faithful to how the model was born, and one that strips off its dial.
This is also the case with the Tank Normale, which has been redesigned both externally and internally. Yes, because Cartier has not only skeletonized the watch, but developed a new caliber specifically for these versions. Unlike the ones we told you about above, the skeletonized Tank Normale has a 24 instead of a 12 mechanism. You will therefore see the hour hand indicating the time at the number on the flange (00.00 to 23.59), as well as seeing it run slower than on a normal watch.
To make this mechanism even better understood, Cartier separated the daytime hours at the top with a skeleton mimicking the sun and its rays, and the nighttime hours at the bottom (dark) with shapes resembling a crescent moon.
Prices and availability
The new Cartier Privé Tank Normale are a limited edition of 100 for the bracelet models, 200 for the strap models, 50 for the skeletonized models, and 20 for the gem-set skeletonized model.
Cosa ne pensate dei nuovi arrivati in Collection Privé?
Follow us on Instagram not to miss any real-time update.
Visit our Youtube channel to live the world of watchmaking firsthand.
