This year at Geneva Watch Days we have seen an increasing involvement of brands from outside the watchmaking world that continue to combine aesthetics and functionality in innovative ways. Among the most interesting collaborations were those of Bulgari with artist Lee Ufan and Oris with Bamford Watch Department. They are also joined by the partnership between USM Modular, a historic Swiss designer furniture company, and Zenith. in the new the Defy, with new concepts inspired by modular design.
The context of Switzerland in the 1960s
The 1960s were pivotal for Swiss watchmaking, a period when tradition and innovation met, resulting in milestones that marked the history of the industry.
In those years, Patek Philippe presented the Calatrava in a modern version, achieving immediate success due to its elegance and refinement. Omega, in 1969, accompanied the Apollo 11 mission in landing on the moon, an event that forever linked the brand to this historic undertaking. In the same year Zenith rewrote the rules of watchmaking with the launch of the first high-frequency automatic chronograph in history, the El Primero collection.
But the story is not just about watchmaking: design has played an equally important role. In 1965, the Swiss company USM launched the Haller modular system, the first modular piece of furniture, which revolutionized the concept of furniture. Its invention became so iconic that it became part of the permanent collection of the Museum of Modern Art (MoMA) in New York. Its versatility and modularity are concepts that were later taken up in watch design as well.
Zenith Defy x USM
Sixty years on, Zenith joins forces with USM for an innovative collaboration that fuses the art of watchmaking with modular design. The result is a reimagining of the Defy, one of the brand’s most iconic models, presented in a new series of colors inspired by USM’s Haller system.
The question that guided this collaboration was,“What would these two icons of Swiss craftsmanship have created if they had worked together at the time?” The answer is a watch that combines 1960s design with the latest technology, staying true to the past but with an eye toward the future.
The Defy Chronograph USM features a 37.3 mm steel case with an octagonal shape and a 14-sided bezel, echoing the distinctive lines of the original 1969 model. The dial is distinguished by the use of vibrant colors(USM Green, USM Pure Orange, USM Golden Yellow, and USM Gentian Blue) and intricate workmanship.
Each color variant features horizontally arranged rhodium hour markers and chronograph counters with a concentric circular finish. A distinctive detail is the chronograph seconds hand, which sports a small spherical joint inspired by USM’s Haller system. This joint not only gives the watch a unique appearance, but also improves visibility in low-light conditions thanks to SuperLuminova filling.
At the heart of the watch is the legendary El Primero 400 caliber, a modern version of the movement launched by Zenith in 1969. With a frequency of 5 Hz (36,000 vibrations per hour), this movement guarantees extraordinary precision and exceptional responsiveness, ideal for supporting advanced chronograph functions. The movement is visible through the sapphire crystal case back, allowing visitors to admire its intricate construction and refined decoration, including the Zenith star.
Conclusions and price
The Zenith-USM collaboration takes the form of a limited edition of 60 watches per color, for a total of 240 pieces produced. Each watch is accompanied by an exclusive case that echoes the design of the original Haller cabinet. The price of each piece is €12,000.
This collaboration between Zenith and USM is an opportunity to further appreciate the value of the“Swiss Made” brand, which has always been a symbol of excellence, quality and innovation. These two words are not just a mark of origin, but a true status, which has helped to create a global reputation for Switzerland in watchmaking and design. Do you prefer this new Defy or the classic one?
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