Zermatt welcomed us as only certain places can. The days took shape through authentic activities and gestures typical of life at altitude. Descents on skis, walks among the snowy trails and stops at the mountain hut, all moments of sharing, which fostered an atmosphere of complicity and listening, naturally preparing the ground for the meetings and content that would follow.
It was against this backdrop that we discovered the two novelties presented by Oris. The first, a Limited Edition of the Artelier Caliber 113, dedicated to the Chinese Year of the Horse.
Alongside this is the Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye, a contemporary reinterpretation of an icon of the Maison, true to its heritage but perfectly current.
And after touching the timepieces and breathing a part of the Oris universe, the meeting with Ulrich W. Herzog, chairman of the brand, found its natural dimension. The interview turned into a profound dialogue, in which a clear direction, supported by consistent choices, and great passion emerged. A discussion that then gave voice to the themes and values we had already perceived all along the way.
Curious to find out?
The interview with Ulrich W. Herzog
IWS: Let’s enter the Oris world, what is your “mission”?
Ulrich: Our mission and vision remain very clear: to focus on mechanics. Back in 1985, when everyone was talking about quartz, we decided to go against the grain and invest in mechanical watches, especially in our target segment. It was a brave choice at the time: many people told me we were crazy, that quartz was too precise to be abandoned. But I constantly replied that in mechanics there is pure emotion. You can feel it, you can live it.
IWS: Was it the public that confirmed that choice?
Ulrich: Absolutely. It was mainly young Japanese people who first rediscovered the fascination of the mechanical watch: they wanted to hear the ticking, they wanted to feel the object. In a time dominated by digital and multifunction watches, the excitement was rekindled. We realized that that path had a future. And we were right!
Even today our direction is the same: the future is in the past. Just look at our old catalogs. I brought one from 1929, for the 25th anniversary of Oris. You can sense how much quality and passion there was even then. The factory was in Hölstein, as it is today. And even looking at the marketing side they were extraordinarily far ahead.
IWS: How important is historical heritage to Oris?
Ulrich: It is fundamental. We are very proud of our heritage. In the beginning we made pocket watches, then wristwatches came about by soldering the lugs to the cases. That’s the origin of everything. Only brands with a real history can talk credibly about history. This is one of our great cornerstones.
IWS: In the 1970s and 1980s you experienced the quartz crisis firsthand. How do you see the current situation in the market?
Ulrich: Before going into watchmaking I worked in banking and the oil industry. It was a radical change: from large physical volumes and large financial numbers to a tiny product, made of components measured in hundredths of a millimeter. When I joined Oris in 1978, the Swiss watch industry was experiencing one of the most dramatic moments in its history: from 90,000 employees it was down to about 30,000. It was a huge collapse.
ASUAG did not see a future for Oris, but Dr. Portmann and I did. Oris had built a global reputation for quality and design, and we believed that this heritage could put the brand back on the road to success. Dr. Portmann had two options: close the factory or, together with me and other shareholders, take the risk. We chose to take the risk.
While the current crisis is different: it is more about luxury in general and reflects global instability, wars, and economic uncertainty. But every crisis is also a turning point. Today more than ever, companies must have a clear mission and stay true to their DNA. If you start chasing the market by going up or down a band without consistency, you lose identity. We, on the other hand, are independent, financially sound, and can “afford” to stay true to who we are.
We appeal to independent people, who do not feel the need to flaunt a hyper-luxury brand, but seek authentic quality. And I believe this approach has a future, even in a difficult environment.
IWS: In a market where many brands are raising prices sharply, what is your vision and strategy?
Ulrich: Our entry price is around 2,000 euros, then we go up to 3,000 to 4,000 euros with manufacture movements. Of course, inflation exists and we also have to adjust prices, but not at the same speed as other brands. Our strategy remains to offer real value, authentic products consistent with our DNA.
Our challenge is also to convince people who wear only smartwatches today to rediscover the excitement and beauty of a mechanical watch. Many people now wear two watches: a smartwatch and a mechanical watch. And a mechanical watch, unlike a smart one, can maintain or even increase its value over time.
IWS: What does it mean for you to create “innovative” timepieces?
Ulrich: It means offering useful complications, not style exercises for their own sake. We don’t make overly complicated and very expensive movements as part of the Geneva maisons. We prefer complications like the “pointer date,” which has been part of our history since 1939; five or ten days of power reserve; or real “tool watches” like the altimeter or depth gauge. These are all solutions that have real utility, even if they are difficult to develop. But we want to remain consistent, prepare yes innovation but with common sense.
IWS: That decision secured the future and independence of Oris. How important is this independence?
Ulrich: With the management buyout we realized that we were suddenly responsible for ourselves. At first it was an almost suffocating feeling, like having little oxygen. But we learned quickly, became more agile and more courageous. We made bold decisions, did things our own way, and realized that our products and stories had a market. People liked what Oris stood for: its watches and its unique spirit. Today, independence is not just a corporate structure, it’s a mindset: it’s what inspires us and fuels every decision we make.
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