On May 10, 2022, in Geneva, the Sotheby’s Important Watches Part 1 auction will take place, a major sale that includes Gerald Genta’s personal Royal Oak and some other particularly rare watches, from the Broad Arrow 2915 to a special Piaget made by the independent watchmaker F.P. Journe.
The following are in our opinion the 10 most relevant watches of the May auction (here you can find the full catalogue)
Rolex Oyster Royal Ref. 6444 with Arabic numerals – Lot 17
At first glance, the Rolex Oyster Prince Royal at auction at Sotheby’s really attracts the eye. The blue and cream-white blue enamel dial with Hindo-Arabic indexes set it apart from any other Oyster model of the time, often very simple and unimportant watches.
The reference 6444 in question has a particular story. The watch comes from the family of the owner himself, Khair-Al-Deen AlZerikly, an Arab diplomat, historian and poet who lived between 1893 and 1976.
The first Oyster Royal dates back to 1933, while the sample up for auction is dated 1958, despite its excellent condition. The real highlight in this case is the dial, which according to Sotheby’s research has never appeared on the market. Rolex’s enamel dials are among the rarest versions ever produced and we could say that in the interview with Sandro Fratini, we saw the most complete collection of these specimens.
The dial, made by the famous Stern Freres, has a blue enamel circumference, with Rolex Oyster Prince Royal – Shock Resistant printed above, Hindo-Arabic indices in relief (yes, they are not applied!) with the minutes track on the outside, also in gold.
The estimate for the Rolex Oyster Royal Ref. 6444 with Arabic numerals is CHF 20,000-30,000
Zenith A.Cairelli for the Italian Air Force – Lot 52
The Zenith signed A.Cairelli are among the most sought-after vintage models. At the beginning of the 1960s, the Italian Air Force ordered 2500 aviator chronographs through the Roman dealer Antonio Cairelli, asking Zenith some technical specifications of legibility and functionality.
The Maison made these Type CP-2 chronographs specifically for the Air Force. Cairelli allocated 2,000 pieces to the military, while he kept the remaining 500 with him, which will then be sold to civilians.
The watch sold by Sotheby’s is part of the 2,000 destined to the Air Force, confirmed by the caseback engraved with the military assignment number.
The Zenith A.Cairelli Tipo CP-2 is estimated at CHF 12,000-18,000.
Vacheron Constantin 222 in gold and steel – Lot 60 and 61
If Watches & Wonders has raised your level of attention towards Vacheron Constantin and the reissue of 222, get ready for the May 10 auction as there will be two period examples of this famous watch on sale.
The two lots include two 222s, one in yellow gold (60) and one in steel (61). Wrongly attributed to Gerald Genta, this Vacheron Constantin icon was born from the pen of German designer Jorg Hysek.
Those at Sotheby’s auction are of two different sizes: 34mm for gold and 37mm for steel.
Vacheron 222 in yellow gold (Lot 60) is estimated at CHF 40,000-60,000, that of 222 in steel (Lot 61) is CHF 60,000-90,000
Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Ref. 2915-1 – Lot 48
“Broad Arrow” and “Omega Speedmaster” are two names that go hand in hand for fans of vintage watches. The name broad arrow, in Italian “broad arrow”, refers to the shape of the hands, where that of the hours is reminiscent of a generously sized arrow.
The history of the Speedmaster is known to almost everyone. Born in 1957 for the world of motor racing, it was then selected by NASA along with several chronographs from other brands to be tested in extreme conditions. The Speedy was the only one to pass them all, thus changing its destiny from earth to space.
The reference CK2915 was produced between 1957 and 1959 in about 3,000 examples, including various models with different characteristics. The 2915-1 for example sports a regular metal bezel while the 2915-3 has a black bezel. Lot 48 in question (2915-1) is among the first examples produced, it was sold in Norway in September 1958, where it remained until before arriving at Sotheby’s.
The estimate for the Omega Speedmaster Broad Arrow Ref. 2915-1 is CHF 200,000-400,000.
Piaget X F.P. Journe Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie – Lot 35
François-Paul Journe is probably the most prominent independent watchmaker of recent years, having set unprecedented records in the watch market. Although its success comes from its own brand, F.P. Journe, his career actually stems from some collaborations with existing brands such as Harry Winston with the Opus One or Piaget with the Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie.
In 1997 Journe created the 1996P mechanism, an extremely complicated caliber of rather small dimensions given its complexity (visible from the sapphire caseback). The watch is in fact a large sonnerie minute repeater of just 37mm in diameter.
The finish of the dial is nothing short of exceptional: the guilloche decoration makes it sophisticated and extremely difficult to photograph (you don’t want to imagine the attempts we made to obtain this photo). Indexes and writings are golden-toned and resemble the shades of the case.
It is estimated that compared to the original plan to create 10 examples of Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie, only a few examples were actually produced, making this watch even more rare. In a period in which collectors are fighting to acquire the works of art of F.P. Journe, this specimen is one of those unique watches for any collection.
The Piaget X F.P. Journe Gouverneur Grande Sonnerie is CHF 40,000-80,000.
Gerald Genta’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 – Lot 72
The most important lot of the auction is definitely 72: Gérald Genta’s personal Audemars Piguet Royal Oak reference 5402. For this lot we have dedicated a specific separate article, which you can read here on IWS.
The estimate of the personal Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 5402 worn by Gerald Genta is CHF 300,000-500,000.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15128ST Anniversary for Italy – Lot 87
Our country is renowned for its importance in the watchmaking sector, both in terms of watch-collectors and in terms of taste. Various Maison have dedicated limited editions just for Italy, such as Audemars Piguet with the reference 15128ST produced in only 50 pieces.
What makes this watch exceptional is the dial, or rather “the” dials. When it launched, it came in two different colorways, one in khaki green (which we saw particularly popular this year) and one in radiant blue. However, the owner could admire the second dial almost like a table clock, thanks to its round case and additional hands.
This is nothing less than an ultra-thin 39mm Jumbo, making it the most coveted AP watch in recent years, in a very rare edition.
The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15128ST Anniversary for Italy is estimated at CHF 120,000-180,000.
A. Lange & Söhne ‘Wempe Edition’ Grosse Langematic, Ref. 304.049 – Lot 42
A. Lange & Söhne is one of those extremely niche brands, which goes unnoticed in the eyes of many but does not escape true collectors. The Grosse Langematic has a purely Saxon aesthetic, with elegant and well-defined lines.
It was produced in a limited edition of only 100 pieces for the well-known German retailer Wempe and it is the number 100/100, a feature particularly appreciated by collectors.
Although Lange particularly plays with the asymmetry of the Lange 1, this Langematic is so symmetrical that it could be considered as “perfect”. The condition of the watch is like new as you can see from our shots.
The estimate of the to. Lange & Söhne ‘Wempe Edition’ Grosse Langematic is CHF 20,000-30,000.
Rolex Paul Newman 6239 in 18kt yellow gold – Lot 19
If we talk about vintage Daytona, we can only think of Paul Newman. The famous actor used to wear various watches, including a regular 6263 with black dial and in particular a 6239 with an exotic dial, later nicknamed “Daytona Paul Newman” by collectors.
Although the market for steel models has been fairly stable for a few years now, gold models are still among the most coveted and rare to find. At the time of presentation, these watches were not remotely successful, probably because they were too futuristic compared to the era in which they were born.
The one up for auction on May 10th is a spectacular 6239 in 18 kt yellow gold. with exotic champagne-colored dial, with contrasting black counters and gold graphics.
The case is in excellent condition despite being renowned for how gold models (as a more malleable material than steel) are more easily damaged.
The estimate of the Rolex Paul Newman 6239 in yellow gold is CHF 400,000-600,000.
Sotheby’s Important Watches – May 10, 2022
For all updates in real time, follow the IWS Instagram profile, while the complete catalog can be consulted here.
