During these Geneva Watch Days 2022, the independent watchmakers are certainly not boring. Watch after watch, we are witnessing the presentation of true masterpieces of contemporary fine watchmaking. Guided by a philosophy in which tradition is the basis, independent brands amaze with ultra-modern design and innovative solutions.
Among the independent Maisons, at the Genava Watch Days, De Bethune could not be missing. In these days, the Maison presented a new version of its perpetual calendar, DB25, giving it a new 40 mm titanium case and a new reference: DB25sQP.
This new model represents a classic interpretation of the DB25 through a sunburst guilloché motif that adorns the 12 sectors of the two-tone silver and blue dial.
The DB25 Perpetual Calendar
Originally launched in 2011, De Bethune’s perpetual calendar represents the union between the finesse of watchmaking and the precision mechanics of the Manufacture, combining two of the most romantic and technical complications: the moon phases and starry sky with the perpetual calendar .
Born with a 44 mm diameter and 11.1 mm thick case, the caliber that animates the traditional DB25, with reference DB25QP, is the DB2324.
The reinterpretation of the DB25
Inspired by the shape of the drums, the round case of the new DB25sQP retains the harmonious lines that contributed to the success of the original DB25QP.
Another novelty is the use of titanium for the case, a material that the Manufacture has increasingly favored in recent years. For this new model, De Bethune has also created an improved version of the latest caliber DB2324 about which we will talk later.
The case of the new DB25sQP
Made of titanium, it has dimensions of 40 mm in diameter with a thickness of 11.3 mm. The integrated, perforated and curved lugs further accentuate the practicality and pleasantness of use of this classic-inspired watch.
To protect the dial we find a sapphire crystal with double anti-reflective coating. The back, also in titanium, features an anti-reflective sapphire crystal through which you can admire the caliber of the watch.
Looking at the edges of the case, at 8 and 10, we can see the small pushers that are used to set and correct the month, day and moon phases. At 3 o’clock, on the other hand, the winding crown stands out with which it is possible to set the date and time.
The dial of the new DB25sQP
The refinement of the decorations and the purity of the two-tone handcrafted guilloché dial, with a pattern that radiates in 12 sectors, accentuate the legibility of the watch. The silver Roman numerals indicating the hours and the ring of the minute track are positioned in the blue outer ring.
At 12 o’clock, to indicate the phases of the moon, we find a sphere of palladium and blued steel set in a sky dotted with pink gold stars that also incorporates a leap year indicator in a gold disc.
The date can be read on the dial at 6 o’clock, while the openings for indicating the day of the week and the month are located at 9 and 3 o’clock respectively.
The caliber of the new new DB25sQP
In the new De Bethune DB25sQP we find an improved version of the latest DB2324 caliber: the DB2324V2. This movement has been technically adapted to fit in a 40mm case, which represents a new venture for the Manufacture.
Entirely designed and developed by Denis Flageollet’s team in the Manufacture’s Haute Horlogerie laboratories in Sainte Croix (Switzerland), the self-winding Caliber DB2324V2 with a 5-day power reserve benefits from De Bethune’s research and latest technologies.
Among these we find the perpetual calendar, the spherical moon that indicates the lunar phases with an accuracy corresponding to 1 day / 122 years, the double self-adjusting barrel, the triple parabola system and the titanium / white gold balance wheel.
The state-of-the-art balance wheel, visible on the back of the watch, is the result of De Bethune’s constantly oriented approach to physics and mathematics to improve its functioning.
This model is also equipped with the famous De Bethune spiral, the small and very fine spring considered the soul of the mechanical watch.
The majesty of this avant-garde movement is visible through the opening on the back, given by the sapphire crystal, which allows you to admire the refinement of the finishes.
Price and availability
Featuring a leather strap with a polished titanium buckle and accompanied by a second gray fabric strap, this new reference DB25sQP will be limited to a single edition of 15 pieces per year.
The list price for wearing this marvel of watchmaking on your wrist is approximately EUR 145,000.
To learn more about De Bethune and their philosophy visit their official website.
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