Dear friends of IWS, today we are here to talk about one of the rarest and most coveted watches by collectors around the world, produced by one of the most famous watchmaking houses of all. Yet this is not enough, because the watch we are going to talk about has a unique configuration, a signature on the dial. We are talking about a Patek Philippe 1518 Cartier double-signed which will be up for auction at Christie’s this November.
To all of you, watch enthusiasts, the 1518 will certainly be well known. A timepiece that undoubtedly marked the world of collectors and, above all, the history of watchmaking as we know it today.
Characterized by a charm that I would dare to say “timeless”, this watch was made from 1941 to 1954 in different configurations for a total of just 281 pieces.
Among the various versions, the one that certainly represents the rarest, to date, is the one made with a steel case since only 4 Patek ref. 1518 were made with this material.
At this point, however, we have to ask ourselves a question… what would make a watch even rarer than the material it was made of?
If you think about it carefully, what are the most coveted watches, or rather, what is the ingredient that makes them such, especially when we talk about Patek Philippe?
Among the various signatures affixed to the dials we can in fact find some of the most important names in the world of watchmaking and jewelry such as Tiffany & Co., Cartier and many others (for more information on Patek Philippe double-signed dials I leave you the link of one of my article in which I had the pleasure of deepening the subject).
Having found this rarity ingredient, if we add the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch produced in series by any manufacturer, what do we get?
A Patek Philippe 1518 double-signed.
Specifically, I am referring to a model double-signed “Cartier” discovered and unearthed by one of the most important auction houses in the world: Christie’s.
This Patek Philippe 1518 “Cartier” will be sold during Christie’s auction, “Rare Watches”, which will take place in Geneva on November 7th.
Coming from an important European private collector, this Patek Philippe represents a one of a kind opportunity, to be able to win one of the rarest watches in the world in one of the rarest configurations in the world.
A brief history of Patek Philippe 1518
Sought after and coveted by most collectors, the Patek Philippe 1518 is Patek Philippe’s first mass-produced chronograph and perpetual calendar wristwatch, indeed, to be precise, the first mass-produced perpetual chronograph wristwatch by any manufacturer .
As for its production, which took place between 1941 and 1954, we are talking about very few examples, given the difficulty of making a watch with such complications for the time: 281 watches in total.
Made mostly in yellow gold, the Patek Philippe 1518 was also created in pink gold and, in its rarest version, in steel (only 4 pieces).
During its 13 years of production, this reference from the Maison of Geneva, mostly reserved for the most important patrons of Patek Philippe, such as Henry Graves Jr, the King of Jordan and the King of Egypt, has also seen small variations in terms of case design.
To learn more about these aspects and the history of the Patek Philippe 1518, I leave you the link to one of our articles entirely dedicated to the watch.
Il Patek Philippe 1518 “Cartier”
Unknown to most enthusiasts, when I came across this Patek Philippe 1518 in yellow gold signed Cartier, I could not help but try in every way to find as much information as possible so that everyone could discover and savor it. you.
Characterized by a timeless charm, I would dare to say that the 1518 is, without a doubt, a watch that will never be forgotten and never go unnoticed thanks to its rarity, its unique, instantly recognizable design and, all the features that make it so special. .
In addition to this, on this example that will be auctioned at Christie’s, that extra bit of “wow effect” is given by that very elegant signature, with an unmistakable font, placed under the moon phases.
As for me, it is crazy to think how a small signature on a dial can make the heart beat even more in front of what is already a wonderful watch.
If I had to describe my feelings in front of what for many can be a “trivial signature”, I would hardly be able to put it into words.
What I feel like saying about the double-signed dials and what, in my opinion, represents the “extra gear” that leads them to prefer them over unsigned specimens, is undoubtedly the rarity but, above all, the emotion that arouses in each of us for the historical importance that binds Patek Philippe and the Maison that can boast its name on these dials.
Back to talk specifically about this Patek Philippe 1518 Cartier. To reinforce the dose of rarity, this watch was never offered to the public before and is currently the only known example with this highly exclusive combination.
It is therefore a timepiece of immense historical importance and, of course, one of the most exclusive grail watches concerning reference 1518.
Produced in 1946, this 1518 Cartier can be placed within the late first series of the reference.
Despite the 76 years on its shoulders, it should be emphasized that this 1518 has aged very well and the conditions that the watch boasts speak of as proof. The hallmark on the back of the upper right handle and the Cartier hallmark number are also clearly legible.
To underline the link with the iconic Parisian maison, we find the five-digit reference number mark (17544) hand-stamped by Cartier under the upper left handle.
Moving on to a careful analysis of the watch movement, however, it is interesting to note the “PXP” import stamp engraved on the balance wheel bridge, demonstrating the fact that this watch was produced specifically for the American market.
From these details, in addition to the Cartier certificate, which among other things correspond to the numbers and stamps on the case, we have further confirmation that this watch was retailed through the Cartier branch in New York.
A curiosity I want to focus on is the fact that the only other publicly known example of the reference 1518 sold by Cartier (only numbered and not signed on the dial) was made in 1944, and has been sold through Cartier New York.
This unsigned watch was also sold by Christie’s New York on June 16, 2010 for USD 302,500, corresponding to approximately EUR 309,000.
After trying to convey the emotion I feel when faced with the rarity of this watch and having described the detail that makes it so unique, I think it is interesting to focus on some further details that are a little more technical.
The dial
It is a first series, Mark 3, made by Stern Frères with a silver base and the long signature “Patek Philippe & Co.” engraved and enameled.
We also find recessed registers, matte silver “satiné-opalin” surface finish, engraved and enamelled seconds scale, tachymeter scale, date and 30-minute register.
The moon phases are hand-crafted and enamelled on a gold plate and the “leaves” hour and minute hands are in gold, as is the subsidiary second hand.
The case
The serial number is 638’780 and was made around 1946 by Emile Vichet and is stamped with his number 9 inside a key.
With a diameter of 34.5 mm, it is built in three pieces with a snap-on bezel and case back.
The movement
As in all Patek Philippe 1518s, to animate this very rare watch we find the caliber 13 130 Q, on a valjoux 13 ébauche base, finished by Patek Philippe to the highest standards of the time; the serial number is 863’669.
In addition, this movement, in order to accommodate the perpetual calendar function, was modified by the Victorin Piguet atelier.
Final take
When we talk about the Patek Philippe 1518, beyond very rare models like the one we have discovered in this article, we are not simply talking about a watch but, of a reference that was, undoubtedly, the one that inspired the complicated models with chronographs. and perpetual calendar of the Maison of Geneva that we still find in the catalog today.
Considered therefore as the “father” of watches of this genre, this fantastic timepiece contains everything that a collector looks for in a watch: exclusivity, rarity, beauty and complications.
If we add the word “Cartier” on the dial to this, that’s it … we get a watch that will surely be fought with increases during the auction next November.
Personally, immediately after the reference 2499, I find that the 1518 is one of the most beautiful Patek Philippe ever made and above all that it has perfect dimensions and characteristics.
More infos and estimates
In order to participate in the auction, you can register via the following link in which you will find further information about the auction and the additional lots that will be auctioned on the same day.
The auction will take place on November 7th in Geneva and it will be possible to participate in person, upon registration, or via web link.
As for the Patek Philippe 1518 “Cartier” estimate, this is between CHF1.500.000 – 2.500.000 corresponding to approximately EUR 1.530.000 – 2.555.000.
Finally, I would like to take this opportunity to thank Christie’s and, specifically, Remi and Mathieu for providing me with all the images and much of the information that in this article refer to the Patek Philippe 1518 signed by Cartier.
To learn more about the auction, visit Christie’s website.
To learn more about Patek Philippe I invite you to take a look at our dedicated section.
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