Before the oversized cases, transparent designs, and experiments with materials, Hublot was a quartz watch with a gold case and a rubber strap, introduced in 1980 by Carlo Crocco. The black dial, minimalist and devoid of hour markers, relied on the geometry of the case and the contrast between the materials to define its identity. Unveiled at the Basel Fair under the MDM Genève brand, that first model bore the name Hublot, which was destined to become the brand’s name.
Forty-six years later, the new Classic Fusion Tributo revives that design with a fidelity that is particularly evident in the case’s architecture. We find the twelve screws on the bezel, the exposed lugs, and the compact proportions, with the diameter increasing from the original 36 to the current 38 mm. What has changed, however, is the movement, now powered by the in-house automatic caliber HUB1711, which replaces the quartz movement of the 1980 model. It is precisely this balance between stylistic continuity and technical evolution that makes the Tributo so compelling, especially in light of Hublot’s previous reinterpretations celebrating its origins.
Twelve screws, a new look for the Classic Fusion Tributo
The most obvious reference is the 2023 Classic Fusion Original, available in yellow gold, titanium, and black ceramic, with case diameters of 33, 38, and 42 mm. Even then, Hublot had revived the black dial without hour markers and the rubber strap, while still preserving the identity of the contemporary Classic Fusion, characterized by its bezel with six visible screws.
On the left is the 2023 Classic Fusion Original with a 42mm case. On the right are the two versions of the Classic Fusion Tributo.
The new Classic Fusion Tributo draws even closer to the 1980 model through a more extensive redesign of the case. The twelve slightly domed screws restore the bezel’s rhythm to that of the original and, in the absence of hour markers on the dial, also serve as visual references for telling the time. They retain Hublot’s signature H-shaped head and are crafted from polished titanium in the yellow gold version, while the white gold version features a glossy black plating.
The diameter has increased from 36 mm on the 1980 model to the current 38 mm, with a thickness of 9.5 mm. This subtle increase preserves the design’s compact proportions and highlights the contrast between the polished and satin-finished surfaces, without making the case appear too bulky.
The black rubber strap leaves the case attachment points visible; Hublot has preserved their design by deliberately forgoing the One Click quick-change system. This aesthetic fidelity is accompanied by a functional upgrade that is anything but minor: the screw-down crown and 10 atm water resistance underscore the everyday practicality of a watch born, after all, from the idea that gold could coexist with the practicality of rubber.
Two Interpretations of Black
In the Classic Fusion Tributo Yellow Gold version, reference 262.VX.1130.RX.MDM, the nod to the first Hublot is particularly evident. The 18-karat yellow gold case, with polished and satin-finished surfaces, frames a black lacquered dial with subtle anthracite highlights, against which the gold-colored hour markers and inscriptions stand out. The date remains at 3 o’clock, while the initials “MDM” appear at 6 o’clock, reproduced in gold using pad printing.
The Classic Fusion Tributo White Gold model, reference 262.WX.6870.RX.MDM, features an 18-karat white gold case paired with a polished black onyx dial. Devoid of hour markers, the surface of the stone stands out for the depth of its black color and its ability to reflect light, becoming the focal point of the composition. Framing it, the polished and satin-finished surfaces of the white gold and the twelve black screws on the bezel create a more austere ensemble, in which the geometry of the case stands out.
The new HUB1711 caliber
The most significant change concerns the movement. Replacing the 1980 quartz movement, the Classic Fusion Tributo features the in-house automatic caliber HUB1711, comprising 185 components, with a frequency of 4 Hz (28,800 vibrations per hour) and a power reserve of approximately 60 hours.
Through the sapphire crystal case back, you can see the skeletonized H-shaped rotor, crafted from 22-karat yellow gold for the Yellow Gold version and black tungsten for the White Gold version. This design choice echoes the materials and finishes of the respective versions, giving the case back an additional distinctive feature without compromising the dial’s understated elegance.
While the Big Bang Original Unico reaffirms the collection’s sportier and bolder character, the Classic Fusion Tributo shifts the focus back to a more understated style of watchmaking, characterized by modest proportions, minimalist dials, and meticulous finishes. These are two different ways of reinterpreting Hublot’s history; in the Tributo, the brand rediscovers the simplicity and originality of the vision with which Carlo Crocco founded the brand in 1980.
Price and Availability of the Classic Fusion Tributo
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo is available at select Hublot boutiques and online, priced at €30,200 for both versions. This is a significant price, with some of the watch’s key value drivers being the gold case, the in-house automatic movement, and, for the White Gold version, the onyx dial. The appeal of the Tributo, however, lies above all in the balance of its proportions, the return of the twelve screws on the bezel, and the contrast between the gold and the rubber, which preserves the originality of Carlo Crocco’s vision.
The launch of the model is accompanied by a donation of 100,000 Swiss francs to the Main Dans la Main Foundation, established by Carlo Crocco in 1998. The initials “MDM,” featured at the 6 o’clock position on the dial of the Yellow Gold version, thus take on a dual meaning: they refer to the MDM Genève brand, under which the first Hublot was created, and to the philanthropic commitment of its founder.
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