The Geneva Watch Days 2021 exhibition has just begun, and Bulgari-owned brand Gérald Genta has taken everyone by surprise by releasing a collector favourite: the Gérald Genta Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse.
Gérald Genta and Disney: how it all started
This collaboration may be totally new to many watch enthusiasts, but Disney character-themed timepieces – particularly those depicting Mickey Mouse – can only mean one thing for well-read collectors: Gérald Genta. Believe it or not, this is actually a 37 year old partnership!
In the 1980s, Gérald Genta signed an agreement with the Walt Disney Company which allowed the designer to make some of the most iconic “just for fun” watches of all time, featuring Mickey Mouse, Minnie Mouse, Goofy and Donald Duck.
These are quite peculiar timepieces because, as time passes throughout the day, the famous children’s’ characters seem to come to life!
This is made possible by a special way of telling the time: the arms of the characters – or the objects which they may be holding, such as baseball bats or golf clubs – act as the minute hands, and run along a specifically calibrated minute track.
The collection was first launched in 1984 during the “Montres et Bijoux” exhibition in Geneva, and was immediately met with controversy by event organisers and participants alike.
In fact, the former group indignantly remarked that the depiction of comic book and cartoon characters was not appropriate on luxury timepieces.
My, how wrong they were.
It would appear that history has not entirely agreed with that take, what with you not even being able to find one nowadays given their cult-like following: they have truly become a collector’s favourite around the world.
You see, Gérald Genta, as you all know, is famous for his industry-changing designs of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, but this collection is the purest expression of his creativity, imagination and skill.
Gérald Genta and Disney today: the Arena Retrograde Mickey Mouse
Faithful to the design canons of its predecessor, this new model perfectly embodies the “just for fun” spirit, but keeping to classic horological codes and lines.
As of now, the only character making an appearance at GWD 2021 so far is the undisputed Disney protagonist: Mickey Mouse.
As soon as you see this watch, it’s near-impossible to not be captivated by the unconventional design: Mickey Mouse seems to jump around on this Rhodium-plated sunburst dial.
Captivated, or, amused, seem to be the right words to say, because after all, to many this might be the first time they see something like this – when the world of “Topolino” meets haute-horology.
In fact, this entire watch is like a playful oxymoron: a carefree theme, but manufactured and finished with a great deal of care and attention to detail, as all luxury watches should be.
Mickey Mouse’s Arm: Retrograde Minutes
One of the key features of this watch lies in Mickey Mouse’s right arm: as we mentioned before, this, like the original 1984 version, acts as the retrograde minute hand, which runs along a 210 degree sector arc.
Instead, the hours are displayed by the peculiar “jumping hours” complication via the aperture at the 5 o’clock position.
(If you aren’t familiar with how this function works, check out our article on it here!)
As time goes by, the watch seems to come to life, animating the cartoon character across every 60 minutes!
But… how does it work?
Animating Mickey Mouse is not Walt Disney… it’s this movement!
The watch itself is equipped with an automatic movement with a mono-retrograde escapement – the function which allows the right arm to move across the 210 degree track (as opposed to the full 360 on a regular movement)
This movement measures 26.2 mm in diameter and operates at 28,800 alternations per hour, which allows it to have a 42 hour power reserve.
This is a limited edition of 150 pieces worldwide.
The list price is €16.500,00
The Case
For the new Arena Disney, Bulgari-Gérald Genta opted for a 41 mm diameter, polished stainless steel case, which has a waterproof rating of 100m.
At 3 o’clock we find a very peculiarly shaped crown, with a design which we at IWS haven’t ever seen before: look at the way the case slightly protrudes between the 2 and 4 o’clock positions to meet the crown at 3! Special mention goes to the surface finishing on that portion of the case, too.
Flipping the watch over, we have a rather small sapphire crystal, but it still allows us to admire the excellently finished movement we just talked about.
Seeing as this is actually a limited edition, comprised of 150 exemplars worldwide, the caseback also bears an engraving, reading “LIMITED EDITION OF 150”.
(On a personal note, we think it’s a bit of shame that they didn’t number them – but that’s our opinion. What do you think? Let us know in the comments!)
But the real star of the show: the dial
As mentioned before, as playful and light-hearted as this watch may be, Gérald Genta has not made this at the expense of careful craftsmanship: the sunburst Rhodium-plated dial features Arabic numerals between 0-60 in 5 minute increments, which allow for perfect legibility.
The main character of this part of the watch is without any doubts the Walt Disney’s Icon.
The minute hand (Mickey Mouse’s arm) is lacquered and it moves from left to right until it reach the 60th minute. At that point it goes all the way back to the left.
Finally, at 6 o’clock, we find the watchmaker’s logo, stamped in a retro-futuristic font.
The Strap
The timepiece is accompanied by a red padded rubber strap, with a textured finish, whose stainless steel buckle is also adorned with the Gérald Genta signature.
Final Remarks
Whether you are a fan of this playful Disney-themed watch, or a traditional watch “purist”, it is very difficult to ignore: this one’s a real eye-catcher!
One thing’s for sure: given its limited run of 150 exemplars, this will sell. Fast. Possibly to the very collectors who already have the original 1984 ones back at home!
What do you think? As always, let us know your thoughts in the comments below!
Author: Andrea David
Translated by: Patrick Romano
