There are several details that make a watch an icon: its beauty, its rarity or simply the charm that cause collectors to look for the piece. These factors create a “bubble”, that skyrocket the availability and consequently the price.
A model that embodies all these characteristics is the legendary Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 14802ST Jubilee “Salmon Dial”.
Born in 1992 to celebrate the 20th anniversary of the Royal Oak, it was released in a 1000 pieces limited edition. Out of these 1000, some where made in 18kt yellow gold and a few in platinum, but mostly in steel.
The steel version came in two dial configurations: a blue one, similar to the 1972 original and the other in salmon pink. This last one is without any doubt the most sought-after by collectors.
The 39 mm case and the classic Tapisserie dial reminds the first Royal Oak, with date window at three o’clock and the applied AP logo at twelve.
The movement, consisting of 247 parts, has a non-screw-down crown, slow set date and a power reserve of 40 hours. If that’s not enough, it’s one of the thinnest central rotor automatic calibers ever made.
The beating heart moving this watch is the legendary automatic caliber 2121. Already equipping the Royal Oak Jumbo, it was developed by Jaeger LeCoultre in collaboration with Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin, based on the caliber 920 by JLC.
The watch, unlike the 1972 model, came with a see-trough caseback that allows the 24kt gold rotor to be admired. The oscillating mass reminds of different iconic elements by the RO collection, like the octagonal bezel.
Afterwards, in Audemars Piguet’s history, other three salmon dials version were luckily introduced.
In the early 2000s, the Royal Oak Chronograph 25960BC automatic chronograph in white gold and the more complicated Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar 25820PT in platinum were released.
On the lucky trail left in the days by these models, at this year SIHH Audemars Piguet revealed a new Royal Oak Jumbo 15202BC.
Lots of details are picked by the old “Salmon dial” like the movement (the legendary cal.2121) and the 39mm case. The differences are mainly in aesthetics, for example the removal of the AP logo at twelve and the color-matching date wheel.
The more drastic change, that left the enthusiast confused, is the color.
Despite Audemars Piguet referring to the dial as “rose gold”, it’s nothing like the previous salmon pink. Actually, it looks more like a light and golden brown, tending to pink.
Twenty-seven years later…
Considering that the first Royal Oak is turning almost 50 years old and that during the years the salmon dial versions were many, with the 14802ST Jubilee Audemars Piguet and Gerald Genta laid the foundations to what would become one of the most iconic watches in history. Desired by around-the-world collectors, this model is available for 40.000-50.000 euros, according to conditions and accessories.
Translated by Lorenzo Spolaor (@itsdoc_oclock)
