In the Swiss watchmaking scene, few names immediately evoke the world of underwater exploration like DOXA. Founded in 1889 in Le Locle, in the heart of Swiss watchmaking, the maison began as a manufacture devoted to precision and technical innovation. Over the decades, DOXA distinguished itself with highly reliable chronometers and a strong engineering vocation, but it was in the 1960s that the brand took the step destined to make it legendary among enthusiasts.
When the myth was born: the era of the diver
The key moment came in 1967, with the launch of the first DOXA SUB 300, one of the most innovative dive watches ever made. The project was born at a time when exploration of the seabed was experiencing a real technological and scientific revolution. DOXA then decided to develop a professional diver by working directly with experienced divers to create a truly useful instrument underwater.
The result is a watch that introduces several innovations destined to become iconic. The most obvious is the orange dial, chosen after studies of visibility underwater: this hue proved to be the most legible during deep dives. Rounding out the design comes a patented bezel with a decompression scale, designed to allow divers to quickly and intuitively calculate ascent times.
These features make SUBs instantly recognizable and turn them into professional instruments used by divers, explorers, and sea enthusiasts.
The link with marine exploration
DOXA’s reputation is further strengthened by its collaboration with legendary ocean explorer Jacques-Yves Cousteau. His team, aboard the famous ship Calypso, uses precisely SUBs in underwater research and documentation missions.
This relationship helped spread the brand among industry professionals and diving enthusiasts around the world. Before long, DOXA divers became synonymous with reliable, readable instruments designed for real-world use, an approach that is still one of the pillars of the brand today.
A design that has become iconic
In the following years, the DOXA SUB line was expanded with several models, but always retained the distinctive elements that made it successful, such as the highly legible dials in bright colors, the bezel with decompression or diving scale, the sturdiness of the steel case, and the famous “grains of rice” bracelet, which has become an instantly recognizable stylistic feature
Among the most popular models among enthusiasts are, in addition to the original SUB 300, variants such as the SUB 300T and modern reinterpretations that keep the spirit of the 1960s intact while adopting contemporary technical standards.
Over time, DOXA has managed to retain a very precise identity: that of a brand that produces true diver tool watches, true to their original function but also capable of becoming cult objects for collectors.
A SUB dedicated to Italy
It is precisely this technical and cultural heritage that serves as the backdrop for the novelty presented today: the SUB 200 Grande Roma, a special series developed in collaboration with Gioielleria Grande (a Roman landmark for haute horology enthusiasts).
For the first time in its history, DOXA dedicates a limited edition model to the Italian market. The result of the encounter between the two realities is a diver, which retains all the essence of the SUB collection but introduces a strong symbolic element: the engraving of the Colosseum, the universal emblem of the Italian capital and its millennial history, appears on the caseback.
The case back bearing the logo of the Grande Jewelers and the stylized Colosseum | Credits: Doxa
Limited to only 50 numbered examples, the model is also distinguished by its refined smoky black dial, an aesthetic choice that adds depth and elegance to a timepiece born for adventure.
The SUB 200 “Grande” Roma with “beads of rice” bracelet | Credits: Doxa
The 42mm 316L steel case, water-resistant to 200 meters, is protected by a domed “glass box” sapphire crystal. A black unidirectional bezel and applied indexes with Super-LumiNova ensure the readability typical of DOXA diver’s watches, while inside hides the Sellita SW200 Swiss automatic movement with about 38 hours of power reserve.
The SUB 200 “Grande” Roma with NATO strap | Credits: Doxa
This is accompanied by the famous “beads of rice” steel bracelet (with folding clasp and diving extension) flanked by a brown NATO strap with pin buckle included in the package.
A new page for an icon of the sea
With the SUB 200 Grande Roma, DOXA once again demonstrates its ability to combine tradition and novelty. The watch keeps intact the spirit of the historic divers that have accompanied generations of marine explorers, but introduces a celebratory dimension that makes this edition particularly special.
Available exclusively at Gioielleria Grande and on the boutique’s website, priced at 1,590 euros, this SUB represents a fascinating encounter between Swiss heritage and Italian identity. A diver born for the sea but with an eye on the eternal city!
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