Innovative and revolutionary, François-Paul Journe dives in horology world since he was a kid and quickly begins to be charmed by complications, developing his first tourbillon pocket-watch at the age of 20.
He managed to make his first tourbillon wristwatch in 1991.
But we must wait until 1999, when he presented at Basel’s Fair the model that definitely elevated him to the peak of horology watchmakers: the tourbillon souverain.
Today, F.P. Journe is celebrating the 20th anniversary of one of his most famous creations, introducing his new tourbillon souverain vertical.
What strikes the most surely is the tourbillon.
Vertical and not oriented as the dial, it can simply look like a “complication’s complication”, but it actually is a great technical achievement.
Journe explained that he developed this vertical tourbillon (that rotates every 30 seconds instead of the usual minute) to let its efficiency at its best both when the watch is oriented horizontally and oblique.
The remontoir d’egalitè
Like the previous version, we can find the remontoir d’egalitè, a constant force mechanism positioned at 7 o’clock, that provides a homogeneous torsion to the balance cock, letting his amplitude to always be optimal.
This creates the fascinating effect of “dead seconds” that jumps one by one, dying and rising again every time. Visually, the effect is the same ticking as quartz watches, but obviously nothing to share (it’s considered to be a complication).
To emphasize even more the amazing features of this complication, a conical ring around the tourbillon is mirror-polished to reflect as much light as possible into the cage.
Another interesting component is the dial.
Remembering the model presented in 1999, we can see how the dial is actually made out of 4 gold bridges that are engraved and decorated with “Clous de Paris” guillochè.
The two hours and minutes sub dials are enamel-painted and obtained from a single piece of enamel, while the power reserve is directly reported on the bridges. Generally speaking, the dial is rich in details. Too many? Maybe.
The movement
Even if it maintains the remontoir d’egalitè and the dead seconds, this is a new movement developed on purpose for the vertical tourbillon.
The power reserve is 80 hours and it’s cased in a slightly larger case at 42 mm, available both in 18k rose gold and platinum.
Prices start at 244.500 CHF (around 213.300€) for the rose gold version, going un to 248.000 CHF (around 218.300€) for the platinum one, that are closer to the quality, craftsmanship and history behind the brand.
Translated by Lorenzo Spolaor (@itsdoc_oclock)
