If you’ve been a follower of ItalianWatchSpotter, you should know that Richard Mille is in our top 10.
Today our team will try to explain you how it feels to wear the RM50-03 Tourbillon Split Seconds Chronograph Ultralight McLaren F1.
As the name suggests, this is a pretty complicated watch and the explanation won’t be quick.
What does it have to do with McLaren? And F1? What does Split Second Chronograph mean? And what about the tourbillon?
We’ll have a quick overview of the brand and then dive deep into the 50-03 to understand what it’s like to wear a 38 grams watch (yes you read it right: not pounds, not ounces, GRAMS! Including the strap, of course).
It’s easy to spot a Richard Mille timepiece, the tonneau case always been a brand’s favorite, exotic materials too. The first model was introduced in 2001.
The brand’s target is well defined: bring aeronautical and F1 automotive performances in watches.
So, we understand why Mr. Mille decided to collaborate with McLaren and the automotive world.
Now let’s focus on the 50-03.
The first sensation when you wear it is “WOW”.
The tonneau case gives a solid and massive look, that we expect to be heavy and annoying on the wrist. This watch is the opposite: it’s like not wearing it at all, besides being unbelievably comfortable.
The first time you wear a Richard Mille that is so lightweight, you’re totally astonished.
The “weight factor” it’s debated all over the world by collectors. Some like to feel the watch on the wrist and would be annoyed by such a light one.
The first element to grab our attention is the orange strap. Seems trivial to begin by a detail as the strap may be, but we’re ItalianWatchSpotter for something.
It’s not only the color, but the ultralight nylon with no buckle. Yes, the strap is elastic and doesn’t require to be opened, you simply stretch it a little bit and let it slide from your hand to your wrist.
There you have it, you’re wearing the lightest splitting chronograph in the world.
Let’s move to the case now
The material could only be innovative, being Graph TPT®, an evolution of the classic Carbon TPT® that’s been graphene-injected. This nanomaterial has amazing properties: 6 times lighter than steel but 200 times harder. The case is made gluing and crossing together 30-micron (0,03mm) sheets, that are then cut into the final shape.
Dimensions are 44.50mm x 49.65mm, with a 16.10mm thickness. A centimeter and a half surely don’t make this watch slim, but it’s not bothering.
Side pushers are hollow to recall McLaren’s inlets design and aerodynamics.
And let’s finally talk about the movement.
The RM50-03 is equipped with a hand wound tourbillon split seconds chronograph with hours and 30 minutes registers, plus power reserve, torque and function indicators.
It’s a world record movement: only 7 grams in weight and capable of handling up to 5000g.
Skeleton watches always been fascinating, but the legibility isn’t always easy and fast. Hours and minutes hands are easily distinguished by their red accents and size. Chronograph’s splitting hands are thinner, and the tips colored in yellow and red.
At 12 o’clock we can see two indicators that, at first glance, may look the same. The functions are both about the movement operation: power reserve and torque indicator. On the left we find a small colored arch going from 70 to 10 showing how much power is left, while on the right we have the Torque Indicator, showing the spring’s tention in the barrel. This being Richard Mille’s complication par excellence since their first release back in 2001: the RM001.
To us, the best is in the details that an untrained eye can’t detect. They are our mission.
The function indicator may be useless, but in such a complicated watch comes in handy.
It’s fairly easy to explain: there are three letters, W-N-H. A small arrow shows one of these to tell us which position is the crown in.
“W” for winding, “N” for neutral (when you wear the watch), “H” for hand setting.
What we love the most, after details, is the possibility to customize the watch and Richard Mille pleased us (partially). The 50-03 is born with red crown and details, but that’s only for the prototype. To relate it more to McLaren, the final releases are in orange.
The only customization left is the strap, available in nylon (black or orange) or rubber (only in black).
Production is limited to 75 pieces, with a price tag of 1.120.500€ (with taxes). The final surprise? The watch is presented with a 1:5 model of 2017 McLaren-Honda!
Translated by Lorenzo Spolaor (@itsdoc_oclock)
