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Today we will delve into one of the most fascinating and distinctive elements of a watch: the dial. This component, in addition to its functional role, represents a veritable canvas on which watchmakers express their mastery, using different materials, colors and finishes. Each technique used to decorate the dial contributes to enhancing its beauty and giving it a unique character.

From the most common industrial processes, such as satin-finishing and soleil, to more complex handcrafted decorations, such as enameling and guilloché, today we will explore in detail the main finishes used in watchmaking.

Soleil finish

The first finish we analyze is soleil, also called sunburst. This technique is very popular because of its aesthetic beauty and relative simplicity of execution. The name comes from the luminous effect created on the surface of the dial, with reflections radiating from the center outward, just like the sun’s rays.

To achieve this effect, the dial is brushed with a rotary tool, leaving thin concentric incisions. Next, a translucent coating or colored lacquer is applied to amplify the play of light.

In high-end watches, this processing is done by hand, using a wire brush and an abrasive paste. The process requires great craftsmanship, as each step affects the regularity and depth of the reflections. The end result is a softer and more sophisticated luminous effect than that achieved mechanically.

Guilloché finish

Guilloché is one of the most celebrated and popular finishes among watchmaking enthusiasts. This technique involves engraving intricate geometric patterns on the surface of the dial, creating a refined play of light and shadow.

It can be handcrafted using a guilloché lathe, a machine that allows metal to be engraved with micrometer precision. Alternatively, it is now often made with numerically controlled milling machines to reduce production time.

Some of the most iconic motifs include Tapisserie, used in the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and characterized by a texture of small squares that is engraved with a pantograph, giving three-dimensionality to the dial, and Clous de Paris, a relief motif characterized by small pyramids, achieved by engraving the surface with geometric micro-dots.

This technique is synonymous with excellence and is used by maisons such as Breguet, which has made guilloché a true trademark.

Grainé finish

Less common, but extremely fascinating, the grainé finish is distinguished by its grainy, matte texture. This workmanship is typical of haute horology, as it requires a complex process that gives the dial a special and exclusive look.

To achieve this, the surface of the dial is sandblasted or treated with a special varnish that gives a slightly rough finish. In some cases, chemical etching or milling is also used to achieve the characteristic textural effect.

This type of dial is particularly valued for its discreet elegance and ability to reduce glare, improving the readability of the watch.

Enameling

Let us now turn to one of the most prestigious and fascinating processes: enameling. This technique, used in very high-end watches, is prized for its ability to give dials intense, deep colors that are incredibly resistant to time.

The enamel is applied by hand to the dial by skilled artisans in the form of glass powder mixed with pigments. It is then fired in a kiln at high temperatures, making the surface hard and shiny.

There are three main glazing techniques, which we will explore in detail below.

Grand Feu

Grand Feu enameling is one of the most prestigious techniques in watchmaking, characterized by firing at very high temperatures, between 800 and 900°C. The dial, usually made of copper or gold, is coated with multiple layers of enamel composed of silica and mineral oxides to achieve different shades. After each layer, the dial is fired in a kiln, consolidating the color and creating a shiny, glassy surface. The entire process requires extreme precision, as a small mistake or incorrect firing can cause cracks or unwanted variations in color. This method ensures a deep, long-lasting finish with exceptional durability.

Each dial is unique, as the fusion of enamel produces slight variations in hues. This technique is typical of haute horlogerie creations such as Patek Philippe, Breguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre, which employ it to create dials with intense and elegant colors. The end result is an extremely refined dial with no visible imperfections and a natural brilliance that lasts.

Cloisonné

Cloisonné enameling is a complex decorative technique that uses very thin threads of gold or platinum to create detailed contours above a dial. Artisans bend these wires by hand to form small cells(cloisons), which are then filled with colored enamel to form the desired design. Next, the dial undergoes several firings in a kiln at high temperatures to fix the glaze and achieve the desired hues. Each firing slightly changes the color and requires extraordinary skill to achieve a uniform result.

After the last firing, the dial is polished to a perfectly smooth and shiny surface. In some cases, gold threads are polished or gilded to accentuate details. This technique is particularly popular for making artistic dials with elaborate motifs, such as landscapes or maps. Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, and Ulysse Nardin watches often use this workmanship for exclusive collections and unique pieces.

Champlevé

The Champlevé technique involves direct engraving of the metal dial, creating cavities intended to be filled with enamel. This process is done with hand tools or precision milling machines, hollowing out the areas to be colored. Once carved, the cavities are filled with liquid enamel and then fired in a kiln at high temperatures to fix the color. Unlike Cloisonné, where gold threads separate the colors, here it is the metal itself that demarcates the different color areas.

After the last firing, the dial is polished to remove excess enamel and achieve a smooth, uniform surface. This technique provides a strong contrast between the metal and the enamel, making it more durable than other types of enameling. Many luxury watches, such as those made by Breguet, Jaeger-LeCoultre, and Van Cleef & Arpels use Champlevé to make decorative dials with geometric or floral motifs.

Lacquering

Finally, we find lacquering, a technique used to create dials with a smooth, uniform, shiny surface. Unlike enameling, which uses high temperatures to set the material, lacquering involves applying thin layers of paint or lacquer to a metal base. Each layer is allowed to dry and then polished before applying the next, a process that can be repeated up to 12 times for optimum depth and gloss. The result is a dial with vibrant colors and a mirrored surface, especially popular in luxury and vintage watches.

Lacquering can be matte or glossy, depending on the desired effect. A well-known example is the lacquered dial of the modern series of the Rolex Cellini.

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