The result of man’s creative ability, a watch, or rather its case, can have many shapes.

Undoubtedly, the shape you immediately think of is the round one. But, thanks to the innovation and creativity of men, from when the first wristwatch was born in 1810 to today, timepieces have taken on different forms.

These watches, which we could call “not round”, have always been defined as “shape watches”.

Over the years, there have been several Maison and designers who have dared on the shape of watches and certainly, one of the many that comes to mind in this regard, is Cartier. What has always distinguished the Maison is the fact that it has constantly created “unique shapes” for its watches.

As for the designers, however, the name that will surely be known to all of you on this topic is that of Gerald Genta. This great master, through his skill in design, was able to create from his hand, two of the most iconic watches in the world: the Nautilus by Patek Philippe and the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet.

But coming to talk about the different forms of watches, which are the most important and currently seen in the watch industry?

Through this article I will explain the differences between the main forms of watches, mentioning the most famous ones.

Round watches

In this category we can undoubtedly place most of the existing and best known watches.

The circular shape of the watches is synonymous with minimalism but, at the same time, with completeness and comfort. These are watches that are able to provide, depending on the function they present, clear and uniform indications over the entire circular surface of the dial.

Although they are the “simplest” watches and, perhaps the favorites, they have less personality than the “shaped watches” which, at times, are immediately distinguished from the others by their peculiar design. The category of round watches includes the most famous and iconic timepieces in the world including, for example, the Patek Philippe Calatrava.

Rectangular watches

Although they were much more widespread in the twentieth century, they are still quite frequent watches today even if, in the opinion of many, it represents a shape that is not 100% appreciated.

We can therefore say that there is a clear division, that is, like or dislike the rectangular watch, it is difficult to find someone who only prefers certain watches with this shape to the detriment of others with the same shape.

Beyond personal taste, the rectangular clock, especially if small in size, is synonymous with class and elegance.

Unlike round watches with large diameters, however, large rectangular watches can have a limit to the perfect fit of the timepiece.

In simpler words, a large round watch on the wrist is less out of place than a rectangular one of inadequate size.

But if you go to small measures, in this category we find some of the most beautiful watches ever made, in my opinion.

To name a couple, Jaeger LeCoultre’s Reverso or Cartier Tank comes to mind.

Squared watches

This third category includes watches that, nowadays, are not very common but, at the same time, represent one of the most distinctive types of timepieces to be worn.

These are watches that, in terms of wearability, can be compared to round watches since, most of the time, they are of similar sizes.

Like rectangular watches, square ones were also more popular in the 20th century and were made by houses such as Audemars Piguet and Vacheron Constantin.

These were classic and elegant watches suitable for formal occasions although, in the 1970s, this form of watch was also used to make some sports watches including one of the most famous in the history of watchmaking: the Tag Heuer Monaco.

Nowadays we could almost say that we are witnessing a sort of rebirth of this type of watches, also thanks to the fact of some independent houses, such as Nomos or Bell & Ross, who have decided to create square-shaped timepieces.

Tonneau watches

French term meaning “barrel”, this type of case also takes the name of “barrel-shaped case”.

These are watches with a rectangular shape but which have rounded corners and arched edges. This category of watches is defined by many as a sort of fusion between a round and a rectangular watch.

Usually used for elegant art deco style watches, this form of watches has also always been used for chronographs and diving watches from the late 1960s and early 1970s.

Nowadays, to give a few examples, we find this shape in the Cartier Tonneau, if we consider the category of elegant watches.

If we consider sportsmen, however, this shape can be found in Maison as Richad Mille, for most of their models, in the Elegant by F.P. Journe and many other modern watches from different Maisons.

Octagonal watches

This case shape is certainly associated by all with two of the most important and iconic watches in the world: the Patek Philippe Nautilus and the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.

Between the two models, however, we can see some differences in terms of design. In both cases, it is an octagonal case but, as regards the Nautilus, we find an octagon shape with softened edges that give the watch, on the whole, a “softer” design, if we can say so. As for the Royal Oak, however, we find an octagon with sharp edges.

Last, but not least to mention, is a watch that has appeared in the watch market in recent years, enjoying immediate success by all collectors: the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. The result of the hand of Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani and his team, this octagonal watch is an heir to the stylistic heritage of the master Gerald Genta and, therefore, connected to the first two watches mentioned in this category.

Gli orologi Cushion 

The cushion cases are watches that we could almost define squares with rounded edges, similar to what happens in the Tonneau shape.

We could therefore say that they are the result of a fusion between a round and a square case. In terms of comfort on the wrist, these watches have the characteristic of being practically identical to the round ones.

The Cuschion style has almost always been adopted for diving watches and sports watches. However, in recent years a real revival of this shape has been taking place thanks to some re-editions, such as the Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921, and thanks to novelties such as the Moser Streamliner.

To give another example of a watch with this shape, I can only think of the iconic Panerai Radiomir which, since the 1940s, has adopted this type of case.

Asymmetrical watches

At first glance, watches in this category may seem round and lean can be assimilated to the aforementioned category. However, if you analyze the structure in more detail, you will notice that the side of the case where the crown is placed is wider and more pronounced.

The reason for this “extra part on one side” is mainly due to protection of the watch buttons and the crown.

An example of this category can be the Omega Speedmaster which, initially born round, for reasons of protection of the chronograph buttons, saw an extra part added to the right side of the case making it asymmetrical.

Watches out of category

Here we can place all those watches that do not have a real shape. They are watches whose appearance was dictated as much by the necessary engineering solutions as by the inspiration and genius of their creators. A name that comes to mind, first of all, for this category, is that of “space clocks”.

Here we can place one of my favorite independent houses: Urwerk. These are real spaceships on the wrist with a unique and futuristic design.

In addition to Urwerk, we can also add De Bethune and some MB&F creations to the “space” category. De Bethune watches, despite having a predominantly round shape, have lugs that give a futuristic look and perfectly integrated with the case, distort the classic round shape to make them look like real spaceships.

As for MB&F, there is little to say. Through his Horological Machine collection, Max Busser not only offers spaceships, but also animals, flying saucers, turbines and much more. An example of this is the “Panda” created for Only Watch 2021.

Also in this “out of class” we can also include some watches created in the last century that have become “classic” despite their extravagant shape. These are watches with particular and unique shapes and in this regard we cannot fail to mention the Cartier Crash, one of the most beautiful watches ever created, in my opinion.

Its characteristic design has made it one of the most coveted watches in the world, precisely because of its shape, setting record figures in auctions all over the world.

Final remarks 

Whether it is round or a spaceship, the important thing is that the design of a watch, albeit sometimes simple, should be special and unique in its own way so to give the timepiece its own identity to be immediately distinguished from all other watches.

And you, which shape do you prefer among all these?

Let us know in the comments and as always, I invite you to follow our Instagram page so as not to miss any real-time updates from the world of watchmaking.