There is a “rumor” that has been quietly running through the watchmaking world in recent months. In light of the recent increases in gold prices (now at 135.73 eu/gr, $5010.62 per ounce), an increasing number of dealers are choosing to melt watches in gold.
The phenomenon documented in China by @watchoosy via Instagram
From an economic point of view, the choice appears straightforward. In many cases, the value of the metal exceeds what the market places on the watch as a whole. The price of gold thus becomes a parameter that completely flattens any ethical-cultural vision and value.
It’s precisely here that a deep rupture emerges. Every melted case and component represents a history that is interrupted, a disappearing testimony, and the phenomenon affects not only great complications or iconic references. The greatest risk affects the less celebrated models, those produced by now-forgotten maisons, by manufactures or minor brands that have quietly but decisively contributed to watchmaking history.
The case of the Breitling Emergency documented by @gusvillajewelry via Instagram
The “paradox” is obvious. While the market celebrates the rediscovery of vintage and reinforces the value of archives or historical narrative, a concrete part of this heritage is forgotten. Think of how many watches, (with unusual designs, complications and historical movements) lacking an impactful name on the dial, become ideal candidates for melting. Their value and beauty remains totally invisible to the eyes of the market.
This process produces another, more subtle consequence. The physical disappearance of clocks leads to a simplification of the story we tell. The already canonized models, the universally recognized icons, survive. Everything that lives on the margins is erased, including experimentation, alternative technical solutions, and atypical forms.
Our thoughts
This is not to “demonize” the work of dealers or those who choose to melt gold, we are all aware that the market responds to logic and needs for balance and sometimes survival. But the historical moment should make us reflect. What responsibility do collectors, scholars and communicators have in protecting what is not yet recognized as important. How willing are we to defend a watch not for what it’s worth, but for what it represents?
Perhaps the time has come to reconsider the very concept of value. Watchmaking cannot be reduced to a mere collection of materials or precious metals, it’s a language as old as man made of history, technique and art.
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