With the Zagato Lab One Concept, Chopard reaffirms its experimental vocation and uses the watch as a true research base. Developed together with Zagato Design Studio, the project is in the territory of “concept watches” where technology, materials and forms constantly dialogue.
The result is an ncredible ceramic titanium timepiece with a total weight of only 43.20 grams (including strap). A value that defines the entire design and enables Chopard to set the record for the lightest titanium watch ever made by the Fleurier Manufacture.
Zagato Lab One Concept
As is the case in Zagato’s signature concept cars, we also find in the Zagato Lab One Concept the motto: “form follows function.” The movement is supported by a tubular architecture inspired by racing car chassis, designed to distribute mechanical stresses and ensure rigidity with a minimum amount of material.
This principle, proven extensively in motorsport, is translated to watchmaking through a construction involving the case, movement mounts, and strap attachment system. The tubular, free rotating lugs allow a controlled excursion of about 45 degrees per side, improving ergonomics and reducing tension during use.
The crown, made of microblasted ceramized titanium, features a knurled profile inspired by automotive mechanical organs and is engraved with the steering wheel motif, a recurring element in Chopard’s Classic Racing universe.
In the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept, the dial coincides with the movement plate. Zagato’s “Z” motif emerges in positive relief, while logos and rhodium-plated bevels define volumes and guide the reading of indications. Skeletonized spheres and the Tourbillon bridge, inspired by spoked steering wheels, with a power reserve reminiscent of a fuel gauge reinforce the automotive connection without compromising visual clarity.
The box-type sapphire crystal, flush with the case middle, offers a continuous view of the whole. The same principle is echoed on the case back, allowing an integral reading of the caliber architecture.
The choice of “ceramized” titanium
The 42 mm case, along with the bridges and movement plate, is made of ceramized titanium obtained by electro-plasma oxidation. The treatment brings the surface hardness to about 1,000 Vickers, with a level of scratch and shock resistance comparable to that of ceramic, while maintaining a particularly low density.
The time-stable anthracite shade recalls industrial applications in aerospace and automotive, where durability under stress is a design parameter. In this context, the material takes on a structural and functional role, consistent with the goal of reducing overall mass.
The L.U.C Caliber 04.04-L
At the heart of the Zagato Lab One Concept is the caliber L.U.C 04.04-L, a COSC-certified hand-wound mechanical movement. The project is conceptually derived from the Engine One Tourbillon of 2010 and reworks its principles in a circular configuration. The bridges and mainplate, previously made of nickel silver, are now made of ceramized titanium, making a major contribution to weight reduction.
The construction incorporates a shock-absorption system based on silent blocks, revised for this application, along with four lever arms inserted into the case middle that increase the stability of the movement. The 60-second tourbillon is housed in an aluminum cage, a choice that reduces rotating mass and promotes overall system efficiency.
The Variner® balance and Phillips terminal curve balance spring complete an ensemble designed to ensure chronometric precision and energy control. The power reserve, at approximately 60 hours, is indicated by a display inspired by the automotive fuel gauge, a functional reference that reinforces the dialogue between watchmaking mechanics and the motor universe.
Chopard and Zagato: two realities, a single vision
Underlying Chopard’s connection with motorsport is a passion for mechanics and performance, as evidenced in particular by the Mille Miglia collection. Since 1988, the Maison has been the main partner of the Italian race of the same name.
As a result of this shared passion, Chopard and Zagato have already signed two creative collaborations: the first in 2013 with the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph, and the second in 2019 with the Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition, celebrating the founding of the coachworks.
This third exclusive edition, produced in 19 pieces, again refers to the history of the prestigious Italian signature and, more precisely, to its founding date: April 19, 1919. It is a watch that recounts the audacity of design in the service of technical performance, the constant search for precision and the passion for motor sports.
Are you looking for the perfect gift? Explore our online store and discover the entire collection signed IWS – Italian Watch Spotter!
For all real-time updates on the world of watchmaking follow us on Instagram and visit our Youtube channel.
