When you hear the word “pushers” or “buttons” in a horological context, only one type of watch can spring to mind: the chronograph. Born out of necessity (by very definition, real “tool watches“), mechanical chronographs were used to measure specific time intervals for various activities, the most popular being automobile races.
If you are unfamiliar with the ins and outs of this complication, have a read of our guide to the chronograph! (Parts 1 & 2)
Just how many types of chronograph pushers are there?
In this article, we will concentrate on one specific feature of the chronograph: the one which allows us to start, stop, and reset the chronograph’s functions – the pushers.
More specifically, we will look at all the types and variations of chronograph pushers that exist, and see how they differ both from an aesthetic point of view, as well as a functional one.
Prologue
Chronograph pushers can be broken down into two main types: screw-down, and pump pushers, with the latter having various “sub-genres”. The main difference lies in that screw-down pushers require you to – as the name would suggest – unscrew the pushers first in order to access the start/stop and reset functions of the chronograph, whereas pump pushers do not require this step.
(CLASSIC) PUMP Pushers
As we mentioned before, there are several sub-genres of the pump pusher, so let’s start with the most basic example. On the whole, pump pushers (specifically, the classic pump pushers) are far more frequently used in watches as opposed to screw-down ones, and are immediately recognisable for their round and polished appearance. It’s worth noting that they can either come with or without what are known as “guards“.
These pusher guards are no different to crown guards, in that they protect the pushers from any external materials from nesting within the pusher mechanism, which could jeopardise the function of the complication, which can have serious consequences in certain professional applications.
In the above photos, aside from the 1967 Omega Speedmaster ref. 145.012, whose cal. 321 is nothing short of legendary, we can also spot a simply stunning Lemania monopusher chronograph cal. 2220 which was assigned to Royal Air Force (RAF) pilots in the mid-1900s. This is just one of many applications in which chronographs can be used .
SCREW-DOWN Pushers
The story goes that screw-down pushers were introduced to better ensure the water-resistance of a watch. Whilst this is true, but it requires a bit of clarification: the screw-down pushers don’t actually directly improve the waterproof rating of a watch, it “makes it safer” in that it prevents the use of the pushers whilst underwater.
The photos above display one of the most famous watches to feature screw-down pushers… actually never mind, one of the most famous watches of all time: the Rolex Daytona ref. 6263. If you are at all unfamiliar with the Crown Jewel of all chronographs, look no further than our Guide to Vintage Daytonas.
RECTANGULAR Pushers
Rectangular pushers are much more common in the vintage world, and, as their name would suggest, are immediately recognisable for their geometry.
The above photos feature a spectacularly preserved Patek Philippe ref. 533 with a rose gold case, and of course, rectangular pushers.
OLIVE Pushers
Olive pushers are variants of rectangular pushers, but slightly more elliptical. In fact, the geometry of these pushers, similar to the shape of an olive, gave it its name. Their peculiarity, and increased rarity, hold them in higher financial regard on the market.
In our opinion, there is no better example of a watch with olive pushers than this “albino dial” Eberhard Pre Extra Fort with a “rattrapante” configuration, pictured above.
INVERTED Pushers
This type of chronograph pusher is incredibly rare, especially when it comes to the vintage chronograph market.
Inverted pushers are a very peculiar sub-genre of regular pump pushers, in that the pushers seem to disappear within the dial when you press down on them. This highly rare Mulco Prima with a Valjoux 22 movement is a great example of a chronograph with inverted pushers. A more modern example of inverted pushers is the IWC Top Gun.
TEXTURED Pushers
These types of chronograph pushers are highly sought after amongst collectors. Textured pushers, whether they be fluted, knurled, or any other surface finishing, represent a niche aesthetic which very, very few vintage chronographs possess.
“Textured” isn’t even the most common name for this type of chronograph pusher. In fact, one watch in particular embodies this whole category, so much so that it is basically named after it: the Patek Philippe “Tasti tondi”. The famous ref. 1463 with Breguet numerals can be seen in the photos above.
MUSHROOM (also known as UMBRELLA) Pushers
Laugh all you want at this odd name, but what if we told you that one of the Holy Grails of all chronographs sport these types of pushers?
That’s right, pictured above is one of the most famous (even though you might not have even heard of it!) and sought after chronographs of all time: the Longines cal. 13ZN. Collectors simply cannot get enough of the beautiful double-stepped 38mm steel case, the perfectly proportioned black dial, and the extremely rare mushroom pushers.
If you don’t know, now you know.
Final Remarks
Although the pushers all accomplish the same task, the type, shape, size and surface finishing of the chronograph pushers can totally change the aesthetic and feel of a watch. It can make it more elegant, or give it a more sporty look, just as it can add an element of sophistication, or make it appear less technically complex. Either way, there’s a type of chronograph pusher for every wrist!
Translated by: Patrick R.
