This year marks the 50th Anniversary of the Explorer collection by Rolex. For this reason the maison has unveiled a few months ago the new Explorer II ref. 226570. Let’s see all the differences with the previous model together.
Origins of the Explorer
The collection was introduced by the maison in 1953 to celebrate Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay, the first men to reach the peak of Mount Everest. Rolex is known around the world for its excellence in every field and wanted to accompany this accomplishment with a watch that has become a symbol of the swiss watch company.
Evolution of the Rolex Explorer II
The watch, initially thought for alpinists and climbers, sees a change of course in 1971 when a version is released for speleologists, volcanologists and more widely all professions that tend to work in dark ambiances thus can’t differentiate between day and night. Therefore Rolex Explorer II is birthed, reference 1655, with a 24 hour hand connected to that of the hours and a fixed bezel graduated on 24 hours.
Introduction of the GMT complication
The watch was revolutionized in 1983, with reference 16650, when the GMT movement added a feature to the 24 hour hand, which could also be used to measure a different time zone. In addition to this the clock face is simplified, making reading time easier on the eye, and two new colors are introduced: black and white, both polished. The watch hands are also altered, and the “Mercedes” hands already present in some other models are introduced.
The idea comes from a special by Oliver Shepard, british explorer. In 1973 in fact, before carrying out the first circumnavigation of the globe using only above ground transport, he asked for his 1655 to be equipped with the spheres and watch face of the GMT-master to improve legibility.
In 1989 the model is furtherly improved with the adoption of the new caliber 3185 (and later 3186). The overall design remains the same but the models with the “polar” watch face now the typical gold outlined of the indexes become black, increasing contrast with the rest of the watch face.
This particular reference, 16750, had a lengthy twenty year old life during which it sustained many alterations (until 2011). Tritium is substituted with Super Luminova, a Parachrom spyrial is added and laser incision along its circumference in order to fight counterfeiting.
Anniversary Edition
To celebrate its 40th anniversary in 2011 reference 216570 was introduced. An homage to its original reference reintroduces the 24 hour hand in orange whilst the dimensions of the case (brought to 42mm), the indexes and the hands are augmented. Making this watch one of the largest watches made by the Rolex brand.
The innovations present inside the watch are also noteworthy, with a Parachrom spyrial, a variable inertia balancer with an anti shock Paraflex system certified by COSC. The list just keeps on going, this watch has a 48hr battery reserve and a new generation Oysterclasp that can be regulated up to 5mm.
For its 50th anniversary, during the 2021 edition of the Watches & Wonders fair, the new model was presented. Even though these watches seem very similar at first sight the new model presents numerous innovations and many differences easily identified by an expert’s eyes.
Differences between the Rolex Explorer II ref. 226570 and the previous version ref. 216570
Even though the case size remains the same (42mm), the loops of the newly introduced models are thinner, just like the soulders protecting the crown, made thinner but with a more acute angle.
The bracelet, still in Oystersteel 904L brushed, compensates for the thinner loops with a slight enlargement maintaining the same closing system endowed with a micro-regulation Easylink. The newest model presents a lighter polish on the ferrule and on the bracelet than the older ones.
ref. 216570 ref. 226570
The watch hands are white gold covered in opaque black through PVD just like the indexes, in contrast with the lucid black found in previous models. On the black watch face, however the watch hands come in a shiny black, popping out and thus making reading time easier.
In addition to the caliber 3285, the same as the GMT Master II of 2018, the bettered techniques include a bettered Chromalight Lume, already present on the previous model but not as bright and durable and an antireflex coating in the interior part of the crystal and the cyclopean magnifying glass.
Another detail has been added: a crown found between swiss and made in the lower part of the watch face, to avoid counterfeiting, which is an ever-evolving crime. The market price is around €12.000 compared to a list price of €8.150.
Conclusioni
To say the truth, the two versions are not that different. Probably, the maison is satisfied with the aesthetics and the results that the design of the previous version has achieved and it decided to keep it. Even though we agree with them on the beauty of the latest design of the model, we must admit that we expect more from a 50th anniversary edition.
Author: Pietro Pilla
Translated by: Tommaso Metzger
