With the growing interest in the world of watchmaking in recent years, it has become increasingly difficult to find affordable hidden treasures, even for first-time watchmakers.

However, with careful research, it is still possible to discover watches of extraordinary quality, often vintage, that are undervalued by the market and represent a unique opportunity to add pieces of horological history to one’s collection.

In this article we will explore five vintage watches that meet these characteristics, hoping to help you discover your next collectible watch.

IWC Da Vinci

As the first watch on this list of models not yet fully appreciated by the market, we begin with a timepiece with a unique design and one of the most prestigious complications in the Olympus of watchmaking: the IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar.

The Da Vinci line began in the late 1960s as a collection designed to house quartz watches. However, in 1985, the house decided to reinterpret the line, inspired by the genius of Leonardo Da Vinci. Thus, the watch was transformed, with a completely revamped design compared to the initial model, combined with the highest quality mechanics: an automatic perpetual calendar with a chronograph function.

IWC does not stop there. A year later, it continues the path of innovation, this time experimenting with new materials and presenting a version with a case made of zirconium oxide, a high-tech ceramic.

All these features would suggest a watch with prices in the tens of thousands of euros, but this is not the case. In fact, it is possible to find beautiful specimens, even in gold, starting at around 8,000 euros on major second-wrist platforms.

Even for more sophisticated configurations, with gemstones or rattrapante function, prices do not exceed 25,000 euros.

For fans of out-of-the-box design and top-notch mechanics, adding a Da Vinci to their collection today represents an extraordinary opportunity.

Omega Constellation

As a second watch, we present a model that easily falls into the “everyday” category: the Constellation line from Omega, particularly the vintage models with integrated bracelet.

The Constellation line was born in 1952, representing for Omega the ultimate in precision, achieved through eight different measurements at the Kew Teddington and Geneva observatories in the mid-20th century. Since then, the collection has featured the engraving of stars and an observatory, symbols of chronometric excellence.

In the early 1980s, Omega decided to reinterpret this line, flanking the classic watches with round cases with Constellations of a completely different design, equipped with an integrated bracelet.

Many of these models are quartz, in keeping with the trend of the time, but automatic examples can also be found. The design is truly unique, with a bezel numbered from one to twelve in Roman numerals. Because of the preferences of the time, the most readily available examples on the second wrist market are made of gold and steel.

For those wishing to add a watch with vintage appeal to their collection, with an integrated bracelet-a popular feature today-the Constellations are an attractive choice. Prices are surprisingly affordable, starting at 1,500 euros for the simplest models and going up for the most sought-after configurations.

Breguet Classique 3137

Continuing our list of underrated watches, I now tell you about Breguet’s reference 3137, produced since the 1990s. This model captivated me when I saw it in the window of a well-known second-hand store in Bologna.

Part of Breguet’s Classique line, the watch features, in addition to the classic hour and minute display, three different complications: at 11 o’clock the power reserve, at 1-2 o’clock the moon phase, and at 6 o’clock the date. The real magic of this timepiece, however, lies in the back of the dial: the visible automatic movement is a true work of art.

Entirely made of gold, yellow or white depending on the case material, every visible component, including the rotor, is decorated with fine engravings that echo floral motifs, showing Breguet’s unique savoir-faire in those years.

This watch represents an extraordinary testimony to the art of watchmaking, and I assure you that for less than 20,000 euros, it is hard to find better. Admittedly, the small size and very elegant look do not make it suitable for everyone or for everyday use, but we are sure it will catch the eye wherever it is worn.

Breitling Navitimer Chronomatic

Not long ago I had the opportunity through an article to tell the story of Project 99 and to learn about the extraordinary watches that Heuer, Hamilton, and Breitling created in this joint venture.

Such a fascinating and important history for the watchmaking industry would be enough in itself to make these timepieces desirable, but their unique and striking designs are further confirmation of this.

Therefore, in this list of underrated watches I want to tell you about my favorite model born from Project 99: the Breitling Navitimer Chrono-Matic.

This watch is distinguished by its classic Navitimer case, with one special feature: the crown is positioned at nine o’clock instead of the traditional three o’clock. The dial also echoes the design of the classic Navitimer, with a black background, white subdials and external chapter ring, and a red chronograph seconds hand.

For those who wish to add a piece like this to their collection, prices range from 3,000 to 4,000 euros. In addition to the beauty of the object itself, the charm of the accompanying story is truly indescribable.

Dirty Dozen

To conclude our list of vintage “best buys,” I want to point out not a single example, but as many as twelve: the incredible“Dirty Dozen,” commissioned by the British Army during World War II.

Collecting military watches is a fascinating but complex field, and for novice enthusiasts it is essential to pay close attention to avoid buying altered or inauthentic watches. Being able to find a perfectly preserved specimen that can tell the incredible story it has lived through is a challenge that requires patience and research.

It is precisely this constant study and research that is the beauty of collecting. The watches of the “Dirty Dozen,” which are very similar to each other, share features such as a water-resistant case and a dial with Arabic numerals and a six o’clock subdial. These uniform details make them an interesting opportunity for those who want to approach the world of military watches.

Moreover, thanks to the different production numbers for each brand, the “Dirty Dozen” offers a good opportunity even for those on a tight budget: good examples of Timor or Vertex can be found starting at around 2,000 euros, while for more prestigious brands such as Jaeger-LeCoultre, IWC or the very rare Grana (of which only about 5,000 were produced and few have survived) prices can go up considerably.

Conclusion

As we have seen in this article, there are many opportunities to add watches with unique history, technical sophistication, and outstanding quality to one’s collection, suitable for different price ranges.

Now it’s up to you: expand your search and be captivated by as-yet little-known timepieces ready to accompany you in creating your own story.

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