Today we are dealing with a subject as exciting as it is delicate: signed dials or “double signed dials”. Before starting it must be specified that, in this first chapter, we will only talk about European signatures , while in the second version we will focus on the American ones.
I am sure it has already happend to you to see a watch on which there is another name in addition to bearing the one of the manufacturer. Have you ever wondered why?
During the twentieth century, the most important jewelers played a role of fundamental importance regarding the affirmation of certain brands on the market. We lived in an era in which official retailers could decide the fate of certain models and, why not, of the manufacturers themselves. From this we understand how the most prestigious dealers enjoyed ample room for maneuver.
This power often materialized in the possibility of collaborating in close contact with the brand for the production of special editions, limited-production timepieces bearing the brands of both realities: the manufacturer and the dealer.
Here is the list of the most important European jewelers that we have selected for you.
1. Hausmann&co
Hausmann & co was born in Rome in 1794 , within the workshop started by Giovanni Romano Ricci. It represents the oldest watchmaking shop still in business in our country.
In 1870, his son Innocenzo, decides to bring into the company, the German-born watchmaker Ernst Hausmann , who will prove to be a key figure for the success of the business . It will be Ernst himself who will inherit the prestigious workshop, which he will transfer to its current location, inside Palazzo Fiano, in Via del Corso No. 406.
Hausmann e Patek Philippe
Among the many brands with which Hausmann & Co boasts a close relationship, Patek Philippe occupies a very special place. In this regard, on the occasion of the 225th anniversary of jewelery, the synergy between Hausmann & Co and Patek Philippe led to the opening of the second Italian boutique signed by Patek Philippe, located in the capital.
An anecdote about this jewelry can be found in the film Il Divo, by Paolo Sorrentino , in which Franco Evangelisti gives Giulio Andreotti (main character) a watch taken from Hausmann & Co .
If you still don’t know Giulio Andreotti’s passion for watchmaking here there is a article that’s right for you!
Below we can see some “double signed” watches with a Hausamnn dial.
2. Orologeria Verga (not Luigi Verga)
Although it is common opinion that the dials signed Verga are from Orologeria Luigi Verga , just 4 chats in the Milanese living room in via Mazzini are enough to clarify the story.
It was not Luigi but Romolo Verga together with Rinaldo who put “Verga” on the dial, often with a crown. These two watchmakers had jewelery and watchmaking shops, respectively in Piazza del Duomo (where Cielo is now located) and in Via Orefici.
The arrival on the market of Luigi Verga, in fact, comes shortly after and will see him renamed as the “Verghino”, compared to Romolo Verga, the “Vergone”. Despite this necessary clarification, it should be remembered that Luigi Verga also signed watches, under the name Giudici!
Before 1947, the year the shop was founded in Milan , Luigi Verga in fact worked at the Giudici watchmaker (which we will talk about below), where he was director effective, although the property was owned by Barzetti.
Thanks to the experience gained, and the disputes due to the death of the owner of Giudici, Luigi decides to inaugurate a small store in the heart of the city , more precisely in via Mazzini. < / strong>
Although this new adventure was a big step for the watchmaker, the presence of the Galtrucco clothing store brought great luck to the business, according to Valerio, Luigi’s heir.
Today, now in its fourth generation, Verga is a reality that boasts four stores including the original, all located in the most exclusive areas of Milan, with a great history to discover.
Below we can admire some examples of Verga’s “double signed” watches , in this case Romolo and Rinaldo Verga!
3. Giudici
The Giudici laboratory is a reality that has been part of the history of Milan , starting from the 40s.
To get an idea of the level and professionalism of the laboratory, just think that the master watchmaker Luigi Verga worked there as director and head of assistance , until 1945.
Below we can admire some examples of “double signed” watches signed by Giudici , including a very rare Longines chronograph, similar to those we are talking about here.
4. Gobbi
The first workshop signed by Gobbi was inaugurated in Modena, in 1842, at the hands of Raimondo Gobbi .
Next to Raimondo, his son Giuseppe took over, who will play a fundamental role in the development of the company which, in 1896, moved to Milan.
Due to the intense bombings of the Second World War, the shop was practically razed to the ground. Despite this, the business resumed in 1949 , moving to the present headquarters, located in Corso Vittorio Emanuele II . In this regard, even after many decades, the shop remains unchanged in the furnishings and the atmosphere that reigned at the time.
Below we can admire some examples of “double signed” watches with a Gobbi dial, both of great historical importance.
5. Astrua
In the distant 1860, Vincenzo Astrua opened a small reality in Turin, in via Barbaroux, consisting of a workshop dedicated to the repair of clocks, table and pocket clocks.
An artisan workshop capable of reconstructing damaged components, impossible to find in other watchmakers . Like Tiffany, Astrua’s brown suede boxes also made the jewelry instantly recognizable.
The Astrua dynasty comes to an end at the end of the 20th century when Valter Franco Ricci , following a proposal made by the last Astrua heirs, acquires the prestigious Turin boutique.
Below we can admire some examples of “double signed” watches signed Astrua , including a Rolex Daytona ref. 6263, which you can read about in the guide.
6. Trucchi
In 1907, Cesare Trucchi opened his first shop in Naples, more precisely in Piazza Trieste, near Piazza del Plebiscito, with the aim of satisfying the needs of the Neapolitan bourgeoisie.
Jewelery famous for its friendliness, still today it is a point of reference for fans located in southern Italy (and beyond). Over time, despite its location very far from Geneva and the Generally speaking, he has signed numerous watches of great importance!
Below we can admire two Patek Philippe “double signed” , with dial signed Trucchi.
7. Gübelin
Gübelin is a family business, founded in 1854 in Lucerne by Mauriz Breitschmid .
Today, having reached the sixth generation , we find Raphael Gübelin at the helm, who is committed to keeping alive the values handed down to him by his ancestors.
Gübelin, always renowned for the refinement of its jewels, is still the Swiss reference point for the purchase of the most prestigious timepieces, with boutiques in Lugano, Lucerne and Geneva . It boasts numerous brands within its spaces, almost all of a high level.
Below we can admire some examples of “double signed” watches with Gübelin dial, but it is also possible to find on the market objects that only bear the name of the watchmaking.
8. Bucherer
In 1888, Carl Friedrich Bucherer opened his first jewelry store in Lucerne. His children will expand the family business, making friends with important people, first of all Hans Wilsdorf.
In this regard, Bucherer boasts a partnership with Rolex since far 1924 , who still remains his most important partner today. As evidence of this union, stipulated directly with Wilsdorf in person, we leave you a pleasant advertisement of the time, which explains the union better than us.
Today, the Bucherer group of stores boasts numerous watch brands for every price range, from Flick-Flack, Tissot and Rado, to A. Lange and Söhne, Audemars Piguet and Cartier. Below we can admire two watches “double signed” signed Bucherer , both Rolex chronographs in steel.
Fun fact: some time ago, Bucherer himself, proposed a series of commercials, including the one on Queen Elizabeth, which you can find in our article!
9. Türler
Founded in Bienne (Switzerland) on February 5, 1883 , by the hands of the brothers César Alexander and Jean Henri Türler , it has produced several examples with signed dials.
The great competence soon led the brothers to make themselves known on the international scene, presenting their first collections in Vienna . However, the real turning point came in 1907, when Arnold Türler opened the first shop, in the historic setting of Paradeplatz, in Zurich .
Among the countless businessmen who crossed the threshold of the shop, we remember some important historical figures, such as: General Montgomery and Sir Winston Churchill.
The first stopped by Türler to have his Longines serviced by the service workshop. When the work was finished, Montgomery wrote a letter to Arnold, dated February 24, 1946 , in which he expressed his satisfaction with the work done on his watch.
Churchill, on the other hand, sent a letter to Arnold Türler, to thank him for an Atmos, or a Jaeger Le-Coultre branded table clock.
Below we can admire a Vacheron Constantin chronograph “double signed” with a dial signed Türler.
10. Antonio Cairelli
Orologeria Cairelli, founded in 1932 by Antonio Cairelli, was a retailer that operated in Rome from the beginning of the 1930s to late 1960s . The business, in addition to the shop located at number 144 of the central Via del Corso , also had a valid assistance laboratory.
Over the years the name of Cairelli watchmaking became famous, so much so that it managed to forge a strong relationship with the Ministry of Defense .
In this regard, during the Second World War , Cairelli supplied valid instrumentation from dashboard , to the vehicles of the Royal Army, which is why the ‘made famous today.
Subsequently, in the 60s , the Ministry of Defense gave Cairelli a new assignment, namely that of intermediary between him and the Swiss companies , suppliers of watches for the ‘army.
The two companies that Italy turned to for this instrumentation were Universal Geneve and Zenith . The watches supplied were identical in appearance, the only difference was the function retour en vol , of which only the Universal was gifted.
The name A. Cairelli still stands out on the dial of the specimens purchased by the Ministry of Defense, called CP2 chronometers.
Below we can admire some examples of “double signed” watches signed A. Cairelli , of which the most famous is certainly the Universal Geneve with 24-hour dial.
11. Asprey
Asprey was born in 1781 in Mitcham (England), by the hand of William Asprey .
The company soon moved to London , more precisely in New Bond Street , establishing itself in the market.
These abilities were also recognized by Queen Victoria herself, who gave Asprey the royal seal.
There is a reason why, of all the jewelers mentioned, Asprey occupies a very special place .
In the second half of the 20th century, the Sultan of Oman Qaboos Bin Said Al Said , ordered special pieces from Rolex , using Asprey’s own intermediary.
Instead of the dial, which featured the Omani coat of arms, Asprey’s signature was on the outer caseback.
These watches almost always have the “khanjar”, or the Omani national emblem, on the dial and were intended for particularly good officials or close friends of the sultan.
Today, however, they are precious collectibles, objects of desire for many, who compete for them at auctions, pushing prices skyrocketing. Undoubtedly, out of speculation, they are a real pleasure to have on the wrist for aesthetics and history.
If you’ve made it this far, don’t miss PART TWO of this complete guide to double signed dials.
