Meet Omega’s Most Collectible Watches: A Complete Guide

Guides and Insights

Andrea David

DATE

11 March 2024

Omega Speedmaster Ed White ref.105.003-65

ed white among most collectible omega watches — Omega Speedmaster “Ed White” – Credits: Phillips

When we talk about Omega, we cannot help but think of the iconic Speedmaster Moonwatch worn by man on the moon. As much as we associate such a model with lunar exploration, it should be pointed out that it is, however, a model, born in the late 1950s, initially intended for drivers who sped down the tracks in their racing cars. At the height of the space race, in the 1960s, such a watch, which had undergone some slight changes in the meantime, was chosen by NASA for its astronauts who were to depart for space.

But why this premise? I will explain it right away. The reason is that one of the most collectible Omegas is the Speedmaster with reference 105.003-65, the very watch rigorously tested by NASA and became the timepiece chosen to accompany astronauts to the moon.

The reissue of the Omega Speedmaster “Ed White”

Nicknamed “Ed White” because it was worn by the astronaut of the same name during his historic spacewalk on the Gemini 4 mission, such a watch represents an icon of the brand and a true piece of history, not only of watchmaking.

Made with a steel case and bracelet, the watch was powered by the caliber 321, a movement so beloved by the house’s collectors that Omega has recently reintroduced, in an updated key, inside a Speedmaster that in design closely resembles the iconic “Ed White.”

Omega Seamaster 300 “Goldeneye” ref.2541.80.00

The second watch from Omega that we think is very interesting and, above all, highly collectible, is the Seamaster Professional ref.2541.80.00. I am talking about the iconic diver with a blue dial with a wave pattern, nicknamed “Seamaster 300 Goldeneye,” due to the fact that it was worn by Pierce Brosnan as 007. Unlike the usual models in the collection, this watch was equipped with a quartz caliber mounted inside a 41 mm diameter steel case.

(If you would like to know more about the history between Omega and 007, we leave you with our article within which we traced the entire collaboration from the beginning to the present)

Water resistant to a depth of 300 meters, this particular watch, in the version from the film “Goldeneye,” was equipped with a special laser that turned out to be of crucial importance to James Bond. Whether you are a lover of Omega or a fan of the world’s most famous spy in the service of Her Majesty, the Seamaster 300 “Goldeneye” is definitely the perfect watch for you as well as a piece of history of the iconic winning partnership between Omega and 007.

Omega Seamaster Ploprof ref.166.077

As the third watch, the Omega Ploprof could not miss the roll call. Recently revisited in a new version with summer colors, this iconic watch with an unusual design owes its success precisely to its anti-conventional shape and technical peculiarities.

Developed in the late 1960s in collaboration with COMEX, this is the toolwatch diver with the greatest water resistance for its time. Also marketed in a civilian version since 1970, this watch was designed to withstand the extreme pressures to which divers working at great depths descend.

Although the official name is Seamaster Professional 600, this watch was from the beginning nicknamed “Ploprof,” from the abbreviation in French of plongeur professionnel, corresponding to “professional diver” in Italian. Characterized by a large case, this watch has always been distinguished by its crown screwed in at 9 o’clock, protected by a case extension. Thanks to such unusual positioning, the watch did not prevent the wrist from moving freely and, more importantly, prevented inadvertent manipulation.

At the 2 o’clock position, however, is the safety button capable of locking and unlocking the bidirectional rotating bezel. Initially developed to withstand a depth of 600 meters, this watch has been upgraded in its most recent versions to an ocean depth resistance of 1200 meters.

Omega Constellation “Observatoire” ref. 2699 or ref. 14.355

As the fourth watch in this our selection, we chose the Omega Constellation “De Luxe.” This is a model that can be found with two different references, ref. 2699 and ref. 14,355, and is nicknamed “Observatoire” because of the Geneva Observatory dome depicted above the dial.

Unlike the other models connoted by the true toolwatch style, here we are in the presence of a completely different concept of a watch. In fact, this is an extremely elegant timepiece made in the 1950s with a 34 mm diameter yellow gold case.

Matching perfectly with the case we find a bracelet, also in yellow gold, with a unique and elegant design. The real highlight of this watch resides above the dial, made of cloisonné enamel, depicting the Geneva Observatory Dome and created by the famous company Stern Frères specializing in this type of workmanship.

Made in a very small batch, commissioned by a client from the Middle East, the dial of this watch is characterized by the strong contrast of blue, turquoise and gold colors. Unlike the other models considered in the preceding paragraphs, with this eye-catching model, which I believe to be one of the most beautiful ever created by Omega, we are dealing with a true work of art.

In fact, the making of the dial itself represents a true demonstration of savoir-faire. On the other hand, the important value achieved on the market by models with this type of dial is explained precisely by the fact that they are highly limited productions, made through extremely precise artistic work.

Omega Cosmic Complete Calendar “Farsi” ref. 2606-8

As the last watch among Omega’s most collectible, we wanted to focus on what, in our opinion, still turns out to be a totally underrated reference. We are talking about ref. 2606-8, that is, the Omega known as the Cosmic Complete Calendar “Farsi.” Above such a watch it is possible to see the indication of the day and month, as well as the hour markers, in the Persian language to be exact.

Looking at the dial at 6 o’clock, however, it is possible to admire the small seconds counter within which the moon phase indicator stands out. Introduced in the middle of the last century, this eye-catching timepiece with a completely unusual dial is part of the Biel-based company’s Cosmic collection.

Produced in a limited run, it was made with a rose gold-plated steel case, something unusual for the time.

Final Thoughts

We would like to conclude this article by asking, first of all, a question to you, dear friends of IWS. In your opinion, what are the 5 most collectible Omega watches ever? Those grouped by us are certainly, for the most part, models well known to fans of the house and beyond. Instead, I would like to draw attention to the last two considered by us as I think they are two models that have incredible appeal but are often forgotten about and many times not even known to exist.

We must therefore enter into the view that, often, what makes a watch and more highly collectible is not the fact in itself that it is sought after by everyone but, at times, the very fact that it is unconsidered and left in the shadows waiting for someone to come along and give it its much-deserved success. Likewise, however, we are also aware that the brand’s sportsmen are, without a doubt, the most sought-after models to date and the most popular.

What I think it is interesting to reiterate, however, regardless of which Maison is taken into consideration, is to never stop at the initial appearance and the “usual models” because, as in the case of Omega, there are many watches with unique and incredible appeal that can make any collector fall in love with their beauty.

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