The new Patek Philippe 5304 could be summed up by this simple yet perfect phrase:
“What is difficult attracts, the impossible seduces, what is complicated, frightens, and what is extremely complicated makes you fall in love.” – Paulo Coelho
Since its establishment in 1839, Patek Philippe has produced works of art by blending aesthetic refinement and mechanical perfection in their own unique way, cementing itself time and time again as one of the most prestigious watchmakers in the world.
Take a minute to think of a Patek timepiece. I’m willing to bet that most of you have imagined a beautifully complicated piece enclosed within a precious metal case. Am I wrong?
Indeed, we are well acquainted with the philosophy of the Genèvese maison: “Complexity should never be at the expense of aesthetics, technical complexity must never compromise with aesthetics“.
This important balancing act – a demonstration of supreme technical ability and artistic mastery – has led to the presentation of the new “Minute Repeater and Retrograde Perpetual Calendar“, reference number 5304/301R-001.
The new Patek Philippe 5304: A Star is born
Presented at the Haut Artisanat 2020 – 2021 exhibition alongside six other “Grand Complications”, the reference 5304 / 301R-001 is the reinterpretation of the reference 5304R-001 in a new Haute Joaillerie version.
In line with the style that has always characterized Patek’s Grand Complications, the timepiece perfectly combines technical mastery with decorative art. The most noteworthy feature – a great departure from the previous reference – is the inclusion of 80 baguette-cut diamonds which adorn the bezel, lugs and clasp.
This note of brilliance acts as a perfect “frame” to the true piece of mechanical art: the ingenious calendar display system.
Personally, I believe that the effect obtained from “skeletonising” the dial and encircling it with precious stones is has been done deliberately: a sign saying, “look at this spectacular movement – observe it, study it“
This is the typical attitude of those who have nothing to hide, and who at the same time want to show off all of their talent. Let’s take a look at each of this timepiece’s key features. You ready?
Grande Complications
To understand and appreciate just how great Patek Philippe’s watchmakers really are, let’s get to the heart of the reference 5304/301R-001.
Although we all know we’re talking about the best watchmakers in the world, the technical characteristics are somehow still surprising, because to begin with, combining the minute repeater complication with that of the retrograde perpetual calendar and moon phases is an extraordinarily difficult task.
In fact, this achievement is something only the best of the best are able to do. To put things into perspective: the manufacture and assembly of a minute repeater movement alone takes between 200 and 300 man hours, and you’re only allowed to undertake this task after decades of experience. So to combine it with other prestigious complications?
Further flexing their mechanical design prowess, Patek Philippe has used an ingenious system of clear sapphire discs, which seem to “float” on the dial, in order to display the day, month and leap year cycle.
The retrograde display of the date, on the other hand, is indicated by an incredibly narrow hand, appendaged with a red crescent, which runs between the 7 and 5 o’clock positions, going along an outer track which contains the date. Using a specific spiral spring, the retrograde hand returns to position 1 instantly after reaching 28, 29, 30 or 31 (depending on the month and the leap year cycle). The perpetual calendar complication is finally completed by the small seconds at 6 o’clock, accompanied by the Moon phases which sits underneath the former.
Integrated into the middle case, we find the switch which activates the queen of all complications: the minute repeater, which has two different tonalities. By turning the watch over, we can admire the complex mechanism which chimes out the time.
Here’s a little bit of trivia: it is a tradition at Patek Philippe that all timepieces with the minute repeater function are personally inspected by the President of the company before they leave the factory’s doors – a true testament to the watchmaker’s commitment to quality.
Not Just Technical Complexity…
We have already mentioned how unapologetically complex and eye-catching this timepiece already is, but let’s get into the specifics as to how the reference 5304/301R-001 fascinates collectors. The main element of attraction, of course, are the shiny stones: 6.22 ct of diamonds set on the bezel, on the lugs and on the clasp, to be precise.
The rose gold case with a generous 43 mm diameter and 13.3 mm thickness recalls the features of its predecessor with sweet and soft lines, meanwhile the white gold inserts with a leaf motif engraved on the sides of the case, lugs and on the minute repeater add an element of sophistication and intricacy.
The openworked hour and minute hands, also adorned with a leaf motif (but this time in black lacquered white gold) are deliberately conceived in order to be discreet, whilst also maximising the view into the complex engineering of the movement.
The bottom of the case is another “hey, look at me!” sign. Made from sapphire crystal, it allows you to explore both the architecture of the R 27 PS QR LU caliber and the complex minute repeater movement and the mini rotor placed under the Calatrava cross.
The timepiece is finally completed with a shiny black alligator leather bracelet. The folding clasp, featuring the famous Calatrava Cross is totally (not) inconspicuously adorned by 22 diamonds.
Beautiful Without A Soul? Far From It
The beating heart of the reference 5304/301R-001 is none other than the masterful R 27 PS QR LU self-winding caliber with minute repeater, perpetual calendar and retrograde date hand complications. This particular movement is made up of 517 components, assembled within a 28 x 7.23mm space – incredible.
Observing the movement from the caseback, we notice that the 22 karat rose gold mini rotor is placed in an off-centred position. The 21,600 vibrations per hour of the balance wheel give the caliber an extreme running precision that does not exceed -3 / + 2 seconds per day, certified by the “PP” seal visible on the back.
If initialised correctly, and maintained with respect, the perpetual calendar mechanism will function without the need for adjustments until February 28th, 2100, the “exceptional” leap year in which the Gregorian calendar ignores February 29th.
Before we move on, one final thing regarding the 22 karat gold rotor: this wasn’t actually a luxury or aesthetic-driven choice. In fact, the higher specific weight (i.e. how much it weighs per unit volume) of gold, compared to other metals, has allowed Patek’s engineers to optimise the dimensions of the mini rotor.
The Calibration
We previously mentioned how the timepiece, if set correctly, guarantees operation without the need for additional adjustments up to the year 2100. Let’s see how this is done, and, equally as important, what not to do during these operations.
First things first: if you are to adjust any settings, you must only do so using the appropriate tools. We strongly advise against the use of anything other than original items provided by Patek Philippe.
Another fundamental rule to follow is to adjust the date and Moon phases exclusively at 7:00 am, so that the date change mechanisms are completely disconnected.
Then, to adjust the day, month, and year, you can do so by very simply using the appropriate correctors that act directly on the mechanism.
Going back to the Moon phases, you must always be aware of the number of days that have elapsed since the last full Moon before using the corrector located at 6 o’clock. In pressing it, you send it forward by a day after the last full Moon.
As for the minute repeater, the only thing you must be careful of is to not activate the switch whilst you are performing other adjustments such as regulating the time using the main crown.
I mean, as complex as these Grande Complications are, operating them is rather simple, don’t you think?
Final Remarks
Well, what can we really say? It’s totally over the top, but for all the right reasons! Extraordinary aesthetics, mind-boggling engineering, expensive material choices, but all so worth it. Ever since its establishment, Patek Philippe has never shied away from great challenges such as Grand Complications, and once again, they have delivered.
If I were to synthesise, and give a critical evaluation, I think that the reference 5304 / 301R-001 is – visually – an extremely high-impact and almost unbalanced luxurious object. However, by really delving into its technical details, studying its complications and admiring its abilities, it’s almost as if balance has been restored to the entire Universe.
This historic watchmaker has very little left to prove, yet they insist on leaving collectors and connoisseurs completely in awe nearly every time. And that is something I find very admirable.
Author: Jacopo Invernizzi
Translated by: Enrico Dalla Guerra
