Patek Philippe Double Signed Dials: A Complete Guide From A To Z.

Written by:Andrea David|
9 minutes

Nowadays we can say that all Patek Philippe, from the “simple” Calatrava to the multi-complicated Sky Moon Tourbillon, are coveted by collectors from all over the world.

But why is this brand under the spotlight? These are the ingredients that make almost all the models of the brand very rare and ambitious. But if we add another one to these ingredients, we will obtain watches that are among the most coveted of all: I’m talking about the signatures of the dealers affixed to the dials of the Geneva Maison’s watches.

Of all these retailers, the one you surely know or have seen on multiple dials is undoubtedly Tiffany and Co. But who are all the other dealers whose name is placed on the dials of Patek Philippe?

Let’s discover them together, one by one, in this article. The research has been possible through the help of @art_of_horology_ (Dogu T.) who shared on Instagram the names of these Patek Philippe dealers from all over the world.

Asprey

Sede Asprey di Londra

This is the historic London retailer founded in 1781 in Mitcham by William Asprey and has always been a world famous address for luxury goods.

Following its founding, the British luxury giant moved to London on New Bond Street.

Throughout its history, the historic London retailer boasts a clientele of the most illustrious and famous in the world, including Queen Victoria and every monarch who reigned after her.

Among the various brands that sold this English jewelry, we find Patek Philippe.

Of the watches signed by the historic dealer, we cannot fail to name one of the most coveted Patek Philippe collectors in the world: I’m talking about the Patek with reference 2499 which, to date, would seem to be the only one in the world with the Asprey signature affixed to the dial at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe ref. 2499
Patek Philippe ref. 2499 “Asprey” Signed. Credits: Hodinkee

Among the other models signed by Asprey we also find this “simple” and splendid Patek Philippe ref. 2548.

Patek Philippe ref. 2548
Patek Philippe ref. 2548 “Asprey” double signed. Credits: Phillips

Astrua

Esterno della Boutique Astrua a Torino

Founded in 1860 in Turin by Vincenzo Astrua, this historic watchmaking in Northern Italy has expanded up to, currently, also in Alessandria and Genoa.

Started as a small reality in which we dedicated ourselves to the repair of pendulums, table and pocket watches, Astrua has become a point of reference for collectors from all over Italy and beyond, thanks to the possibility of buying different brands of various Maisons between which Patek Philippe.

The Astrua family headed the shop until the end of the 1900s when Valter Franco Ricci, following a proposal from the heirs of the Astrua family, acquired the prestigious boutique in the heart of the Piedmontese capital.

Among the various models of the Maison of Geneva that can boast the signature of this historic retailer, we find, to name a couple, a Patek Philippe ref. 530 and a ref. 130.

double signed Patek Philippe ref. 530 con Astrua
Patek Philippe ref. 530. Credits: Alessandro Ciani
double signed patek philippe ref. 130
Patek Philippe ref. 130. Credits: Phillips

Bailey Banks & Biddle

Founded in 1832 by Joseph Trowbridge Bailey and Andrew B. Kitchen, in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania and originally known as Bailey & Kitchen, the company was dissolved in November 1846 and reformed with new partners such as Bailey & Co.

Later, in 1878, it was re-established as Bailey Banks & Biddle.

Among the various activities of the company we also find the design and construction of many of the military medals that are still used today, including the Congressional Medal of Honor.

It was also a dealer of Patek Philippe, but these are very rare and ancient specimens including this Patek Philippe pocket watch converted to a wristwatch.

Bailey Banks and Biddle orologio da tasca firmato patek philippe
Credits: Element in Time

Beyer

Founded in 1760 in Zurich, the family business is currently managed by the eighth generation with René Beyer as CEO since 1996.

Sede Beyer

The partnership between Patek Philippe and Beyer Chronometrie dates back to the early years of the Geneva-based manufacture.

It is one of the longest and longest lasting relationships between the Geneva maison and the historic Swiss retailer since Patek Philippe was taken over by the Stern family in 1932.

Beyer Chronometrie had the honor in July 2011 of opening the first (and so far only) Patek Philippe boutique run by its own retailer in Switzerland.

Below you can see some of the models that carry the signature of the dealer Beyer with them, affixed to the dial.

Patek Philippe 3800 Nautilus double signed Beyer
Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800. Credits: Phillips
Patek Philippe Ellipse ref. 3548 double signed Beyer
Patek Philippe Ellipse ref. 3548. Credits: Beyer

Birks

Birks Group, originally called Birks & Mayors, is a group that traces its origins to the opening, by Henry Birks, of a small jewelry store in Montreal in 1879.

Birks Boutique
Credits: Magazine Lux

Henry Birks opened this jewelry store on Saint James Street in the heart of Montreal’s financial and commercial district.

In 1893, Birks entered the company with his three children and the firm’s name became Henry Birks and Sons.

The Birks store later moved to new premises on Phillips Square in 1894, where the company still maintains a store and corporate offices.

Over the years, the company has dedicated itself from jewelry design to the resale of watches.

The current group, which bears the original name “Birks” was created in November 2005 through the merger of Henry Birks and Sons Ltd. (Canada) and Mayors Jewelers Inc. (United States).

Among the watches sold by the historic jewelry store, we find several Patek Philippe models with the “Birks” signature on them.

Here are some examples sold by the jewelry.

Patek Philippe ref. 3445
Patek Philippe ref. 3445 “Birks” double-signed. Credits: Rolex Passion Market
Patek Philippe da tasca
Patek Philippe da tasca “Birks” double-signed. Credits: Birks

Black Starr Frost Gorham

Black, Starr & Frost is an American jewelry company founded in 1810; it is the oldest company operating continuously in the United States in the jewelry sector.

Between 1940 and 1962, Black Starr Frost Gorham was named as a partner of Gorham Manufacturing Company; however the name reverted to Black, Starr & Frost in 1960.

Quadrante double signed Patek Philippe Black, Starr, & Gorham
Black, Starr & Gorham Sign su un orologio Patek Philippe. Credits: Artsy

The company, as well as a manufacturer of jewelry, was a reseller of watches including Patek Philippe during the period in which there was this temporary change of name; below is a pocket model from around 1940.

Patek Philippe orologio da tasca quadrante firmato black, starr e Gorham
Patek Philippe da tasca double-signed Black, Starr & Gorham. Credits: Sotheby’s

Brock & Co

It is the premier jewelry and gift shop in Los Angeles founded by George A. Brock in 1903.

vintage poster Brock&co x Patek Philippe
Vintage poster di Brock & co.

To grow the company, George A. Brock merged other established jewelry companies in Los Angeles into Brock & Co.

George C. Brock, il figlio di George A., si occupò dell’azienda, che continuò a crescere e a prosperare. 

A second store was later opened on Wilshire Boulevard in the Beverly Wilshire Hotel in Beverly Hills.

In the 1960s, the activity of this landmark of luxury for the city of California ceased its activity.

This historic shop, in addition to having the jewelry department, also boasted a watch department that also owned the Patek Philippe brand with watches equipped with a personalized dial like this example of ref. 425.

Brock&co Patek Philippe double signed ref. 425
Patek Philippe ref. 425 “Brock & Co.” double-signed. Credits: Bonhams

Cartier

Founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, the Maison has always been defined as the “jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers”.

Cartier entrata al negozio
Credits: Architectural Digest

Cartier is not only known for its magnificent jewelry, but also for its pioneering wristwatches.

In addition to having produced several models over the years that have become part of the history of watchmaking, Cartier has also been a reseller of some watch brands including Patek Philippe.

Inside some of their boutiques we can still find the part dedicated to Patek Philippe, such as in the recent store opened by the Edwards Lowell company on Republic Street, the main street in Valletta on the island of Malta.

Among the various models that we can find with the signature affixed by the historic jewelry (which no longer happens today) I can only mention a splendid example of Patek Philippe with reference 1463 sold at a 2016 auction by Phillips.

Patek Philippe ref. 1463 double signed Cartier

Another splendid specimen to admire, which bears the “Cartier” signature, is a specimen sold by Christie’s with reference 130.

Patek Philippe ref. 130 double signed Cartier

Casa Welsch S.A.

G. Welsch, Ehni Y Cia, founded in 1858, was the Peruvian branch, in the city of Lima, of the German Geo Ehni & Co, specialized in the trade of luxury watches and jewelry.

Foto d'epoca di boutique di Casa welsch

In 1888 the decision was made to strengthen this branch located in Peru by sending it the economic impetus necessary for the construction of their new building.

In 1906 the new building was inaugurated, being probably the first metal structure in the whole country, brought directly from Germany.

They were the most eminent retailers in Peru of the illustrious firm Patek Philippe.

After the Second World War, in 1947, the company changed its name to G. Welsch S.A., a name that continues to this day, alongside its corporate name of Cabuchon.

Among the various Patek Philippe models sold by this dealer, we find this Patek with reference 1463 in pink gold.

Patek Philippe ref. 1463
Patek Philippe ref. 1463

Cucco 

The history of this retailer begins in 1886 when its founder, Ottavio Cucco, after gaining experience at the historic Gramaglia jewelery shop in Turin, founded his personal watch shop in via Umberto 86 in Biella, also in Piedmont.

The shop immediately became a reference point for the city with nothing less than a single brand as protagonist: Patek Philippe.

Below is an example of Patek Philippe Calatrava dated 1925 which recently appeared at auction at Monaco Legend Group.

Patek Philippe calatrava firmato Cucco
Patek Philippe Calatrava “Cucco” Double-signed. Credits: Monaco Legend Group

Eberhard

Founded in 1887 in la Chaux-de-Fonds by Georges-Lucien Eberhard, the Maison Eberhard & Co. is a Swiss haute horlogerie company.

Sede di Eberhard

Iconic for the Maison were the production of automatic chronographs also assigned to the officers of the Royal Navy of the Kingdom of Italy and beyond; it is a brand that has always stood out and still stands out today.

In addition to producing watches under their name, Eberhard’s Milan boutique also sold some of the most important Patek watches during the 20th century.

Below we find a Patek Philippe ref. 570 sold at auction by Phillips.

Patek Philippe ref. 570 firmato Eberhard Milano

Freccero 

Founded in 1868 by Francisco J. Freccero together with Mr. Oscar Spangenberg in Montevideo in Uruguay, the jewelry gave birth to a story of goldsmiths and jewelers that family members have continued to this day.

boutique Freccero in urugay

Freccero & Cia was also a prestigious dealer of Patek Philippe watches including the underlying example of a very rare “Round Keys” ref. 1463.

rarissimo patek philippe tasti tondi in acciaio ref. 1463 doppia firma
Patek Philippe Tasti Tondi ref. 1463 Double Signed “Freccero”. Credits: Phillips

Galt & Bro

Founded in 1802 by jeweler James Galt, it rose to fame in the 19th and 20th centuries as a popular shopping destination for many prominent figures in American history.

It is an American retailer of luxury jewelry and specialty items in Washington, District of Columbia.

She is known for bespoke jewelry made primarily of 18K yellow, white and rose gold, precious and semi-precious stones, natural diamonds, silver, watches and personal customizable accessories.

Patek Philippe dealer, among their models we can find this pocket watch made around 1924.

Orologio da tasca doppia firma Patek Philippe e Galt & bro
Credits: Antiquorum

Gobbi

Gobbi jewelery is an entrepreneurial reality born in 1842 in Modena by the hand of Raimondo Gobbi; he later moved to Milan in 1896 in Corso Vittorio Emanuele.

Entrata di Gobbi a Milano

The first site was destroyed during the Second World War but, on 4 September 1949, following the defeat, what was the current boutique was inaugurated with the original furnishings of the time and its own technical laboratory on the upper floor.

In 2017 it celebrated 175 years in business, which allowed it to “earn the longevity award” in the industry.

The recently closed historic jewelry store was one of the most famous Patek Philippe dealerships in Italy.

Among the examples of Patek Philippe, from the Milanese dealership, which boast the dealer’s signature, we find this fantastic World Hours with reference 2523.

Patek Philippe ore del mondo 2523 doppia-firma gobbi
Patek Philippe ref. 2523

Golay Fils & Stahl

Golay Fils & Stahl was founded in 1837 in Geneva by Auguste Golay Leresche and sold at the turn of the century to Mr. Stahl, hence the name Golay Fils & Stahl.

Golay Fils & Stahl foto d'epoca di entrata boutique
Credits: Golay

In 1961, the company was acquired by Jacques Wolfgang, a former business partner of the company, having supplied it with precious stones since the 1930s.

The company also took care of supplying the watches of the best Swiss brands including Patek Philippe.

With the signature of this dealer we can admire this splendid Minute Repeater with reference 3652.

Patek Philippe 3652 double signed Galay Fils & Stahl
Patek Philippe Ripetizione Minuti ref. 3652. Credits: SJX Watches

Grottendieck

We are located between the 19th and 20th centuries in Brussels and Charles Grottendieck was the watchmaker of the King and Queen.

Below is a pocket Patek Philippe with his signature.

rarissimo orologio da tasca Patek Philippe co-signed Grottendieck

Gübelin

Founded in 1854 in Lucerne by Mauriz Breitschmid, it is a family business. Currently at the helm of the company we find the sixth generation of the family with Raphael Gübelin.

Foto d'epoca entrata boutique Gubelin

Renowned jewelry, it has always been a point of reference for the purchase of luxury watches from the most prestigious brands in Switzerland, including Patek Philippe.

Gubelin Patek Philippe 3700 double-signed
Patek Philippe 3700 “Gubelin” Double-Signed. Credits: Monochrome Watches

Gumbiner

Gumbiner was a family-owned jewelry store located on Madison Avenue in New York that sold jewelry of various brands or under its own name.

The company also sold watches from various brands such as Patek Philippe and others.

Personalized watches by Gumbiner can be found dating from the late 1930s to the late 1970s.

Quadrante Patek Philippe double signed Gumbiner

These include the Patek Philippe references 1463, 1526, 2497, 2499 and a reference 3406.

Patek Philippe ref. 3406 double signed Gumbiner

Hausmann & Co.

Founded in 1794 by Giovanni Romano Ricci in Rome and started as a watch shop, it represents, to date, one of the most successful and famous companies in the sector.

foto d'epoca di entrata boutique Hausmann&co a Milano

It is also the oldest watch shop in Italy.

In 1870 Ernst Hausmann joined the company, a watchmaker who would bring the historic shop to success.

Later Ernst will inherit the shop, which he will later transfer to its current location, inside Palazzo Fiano, in Via del Corso 406.

One of the leading brands of this retailer is undoubtedly Patek Philippe, a brand with which the Roman store boasts a collaboration that began in 1897 and which reached its peak with the opening of the single-brand boutique in the prestigious Via dei Condotti.

Here are some Patek Philippe models with the signature of the historic Roman dealer on them.

Patek Philippe ref. 2577 Hausmann & Co.
Patek Philippe ref. 2577 Hausmann & Co. “Double-Signed”. Credits: Phillips
Patek Philippe ref. 533.
Patek Philippe ref. 533. “Hausmann & Co.” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Hölscher

It is one of the Patek Philippe dealers in Cologne, Germany. An example of a co-signed dial is this reference 2584.

Patek philippe ref. 2584 double signed Hölscher
Patek Philippe ref. 2584 “Hölscher” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Howes

Edward and Benjamin Howes opened a jewelry store in Iowa in the early 1900s and became known as pearl dealers.

The shop subsequently closed and Benjamin moved to the west coast and opened his own jewelry store, B.D. Howes & Son Jewelers in 1919 in California.

Benjamin expanded the West Coast business to include 10 outlets and eventually became a Patek Philippe watch dealer.

Among these we can observe the following example.

Patek Philippe doppia firma Howes
Credits: Antiquorum

Huber

In 1928, Huber’s first gold and silver watch and jewelry store opened in central Vaduz, Liechtenstein.

Entrata Boutique Huber in Liechtenstein

Jules Huber, a watchmaker from the Bernese Oberland, and his wife, Wiggi, from Liechtenstein, laid the foundations for a company steeped in tradition and now run by the fourth generation.

There are many brands sold by this historic dealer including Patek Philippe, of which there are historical examples with the signature on the dial.

Huber Patek Philippe co-signed ref. 3466
Patek Philippe ref. 3466 “Huber” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Jost 

The opening date of this shop to the public is uncertain, but the business, which began in 1902, was founded by a Swiss gentleman, Bernardo Jost, who moved to Genoa.

He opened his shop becoming an official Patek Philippe dealer in piazza Corvetto 9 in Genoa.

In 1970 Mr. Carlo Fasolo bought it keeping the name.

In 2013, after the latter’s disappearance, the shop was permanently closed but still, to this day, it is considered a piece of the city’s history, especially for collectors and the world of watchmaking.

Jost Patek Philippe co-signed ref. 3485
Patek Philippe ref. 3485 “Jost” Double-Signed. Credits: Monaco Legend Group

Above we can see a model with reference 3485 with the dealer’s signature on the dial.

Le Palais Royal

We are between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries in Havana, Cuba.

foto d'epoca boutique le palais royale

The Palais Royal was recognized as one of the largest and most famous jewelers in Havana that sold precious luxury items, jewels and one-of-a-kind watches.

Below is a Patek sold by this Cuban dealer.

Patek Philippe ref. 565
Patek Philippe ref. 565 “Le Palais Royal” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Serpico Y Laino 

One of the two founders, Vicente Laino, born in Italy, emigrated to Venezuela in the 1920s. Settling in Caracas, he went into business with Leopoldo Serpico, another Italian immigrant.

Entrata boutique serpico y laino a caracas

Thanks to the post-war oil boom, Serpico and Laino set out in search of watches to sell to the new affluent sectors of the population, and entered into business with Patek Philippe.

Surely one of the most important and rare models sold by the historic Caracas shop is undoubtedly an example with ref. 2499 recently sold at auction by Phillips.

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 double signed serpico y laino
Patek Philippe ref. 2499 “Serpico y Laino” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Shreve 

Shreve & Company is an established retailer of jewelry, watches and diamonds based in San Francisco California.

Shreve&co entrata

Founded in 1894 by George Rodman and Albert J. Lewis, it is considered the oldest commercial establishment in San Francisco.

Among the watch brands that it has sold in its history we find various models of Patek Philippe, including this one.

Patek Philippe double signed Shreve&co
Credits: Antiquorum

Somazzi 

With a history that has been going on for a century and a half, this business located in the center of Lugano is a point of reference for collectors in the area and beyond.

Historic dealer of Patek Philippe, he is still the dealer of the brand today.

Patek Philippe double-signed Somazzi
Credits: Classicwatchny

Tiffany & Co. 

Tiffany & Co., also known as Tiffany’s, is an American company founded in 1837 by Charles Lewis Tiffany in New York, Manhattan and deals with the creation and sale of jewelry.

Entrata da fuori negozio Tiffany a New York

In 1851 Patek Philippe chose Tiffany & Co. as the first trading partner for the United States market.

From here on, every Patek that came out of the historic New York boutique would have brought with it, on the dial, one of the most famous brands of all capable of making even more coveted and rare watches that, in and of themselves, are.

For a few months now, the name Tiffany has certainly been on everyone’s lips in the world of watchmaking as the brand, founded in New York, has created 170 Patek Philippe for the 170th anniversary of the partnership between the two brands. Nuatilus in steel with personalized dial and case back.

Patek Philippe nautilus tiffany 5711

If you want to know more about this Nautilus, I invite you to read our recent article in which we talked about it or watch our latest youtube video.

Beyond the latter, questionable specimens, Patek boasts many dials on historical models with the Tiffany signature affixed to them and actually they all look a lot better than the last one.

An interesting thing to note is that it is a retailer who, even today, affixes the signatures on the dials of the watches that are sold at their boutique; this is precisely what makes them so coveted and very rare.

Here are some historical models of the Geneva Maison with a personalized dial from the New York jewelry store.

Nautilus tiffany 3800 firmato tiffany
Credits: Phillips
Patek Philippe double signed tiffany
Credits: Sjx watches

Toni Cavelti 

Unlike the others, here we are not talking about a retailer but the name of a private individual that has been affixed to the dial of a Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 3700 and beyond.

Patek Philippe 3700 in oro rosa firmato Toni Cavelti

Toni Cavelti was a very talented Swiss goldsmith and jewelry designer who emigrated to Vancouver, Canada in 1954 and attracted attention for extremely unusual pieces of jewelry.

The fact that he owned a Nautilus model dedicated to him indicates very close personal relationships between him and the Stern family.

Trucchi 

Historic Patek Philippe dealer, for more than a century the Trucchi brand has been a fixed point in the world of Neapolitan luxury.

Insegna Trucchi

2017 is an important year for the company as their Patek Philippe boutique was opened on the island of Capri.

Among the historical models signed by Trucchi we find this ref. 2499 in rose gold which is supposed to be unique in the world.

Patek Philippe ref. 2499 double signed Trucchi
Patek Philippe ref. 2499 “Trucchi” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Trust

Going to Spain, we find, among the nation’s historic Patek Philippe dealers, Trust Joyero, located in the city of Madrid.

Below is an example of Patek Philippe “Officier” made in 1925.

Patek Philippe Officier double signed Trust

Walser Wald

Founded in Argentina in Buenos Aires some 83 years ago, it is one of the relatively few Patek Philippe dealers in South America.

Walser Wald Patek Philippe ref. 591 co-signed
Patek Philippe ref. 591 “Walser Wald” Double-Signed. Credits: Phillips

Wempe 

Founded in 1878, in Elsfleth, Lower Saxony in Germany, it has been at home in Hamburg since 1907. The business began with Gerhard D. Wempe with the idea of having his own watch workshop.

Patek Philippe Wempe Co-signed annual calendar
Patek Philippe firmato da WEMPE

Today they are a partner for the most important brands in the world of luxury watches and jewelry, including Patek Philippe.

Yard 

Raymond Yard founded his jewelry company in 1922 and then retired in 1958; subsequently the company was taken over by Robert Gibson who, after a career of 52 years, retired in 1989 and the Yard company passed to his son Bob Gibson.

Under Bob’s guidance, the Yard tradition continues today: gem-quality stones and superlative craftsmanship. In addition to high jewelery, as you can imagine, Yard was also a Patek Philippe dealer.

Patek Philippe vintage double-signed Yard

Ansorena, Gondolo, Guillermin Mollet, Koch, Oscar Linke

Last, but not least, are these 5 retailers of which, unfortunately, there is not a lot of information about it.

Known examples of some of these signatures are present.

Vintage patek philippe time only double signed Oscar Linke
Patek Philippe firmato Oscar Linke

The only ones of which there are no specimens are those of the dealer Ansorena, who, also according to @ roni_m_29 (great collector of Patek watches with double signature), in 35 years of collecting has never seen one.

As for Gondolo instead, we invite you to read the very interesting article written by our Jacopo!

Conclusions

I conclude, first of all, by thanking @art_of_horology_ (Dogu T.) for allowing the creation of this article, sharing the names of these Patek Philippe dealers from all over the world on Instagram.

Surely in this article we have met watches that, we could say for a “simple writing”, increase even more the value of the watch and the desire to have it and, personally, I find the affixing of this “simple writing” an element that gives even more charm and exclusivity to the watch.

And you, what do you think of these signed quarters? Were you aware of the names of all these dealers?

Let us know what you think in the comments and stay tuned to our Instagram page so you don’t miss any updates.

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Author

Author
Born in 1994, since he was four always with a watch on his wrist. Lover and scholar of vintage watches, including military ones, his passion has expanded towards modern watches from independent and emerging brands. He is also an active member of an Italian forum in the sector.
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