What happens if you combine one of H. Moser & Cie’s minimalist perpetual calendars with a sporty Streamliner train?
The answer is the ever so subtly brilliant Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar,
This new timepiece is the successful blend of the two models: the dial debuts a new shade of grey on the minimalist layout aesthetic of the Streamliner Center Seconds, meanwhile the whole timepiece is filled with hidden details, and is powered by a newly developed manually wound movement.
To the untrained eye, this watch may look like just any other three-hand timepiece with a date function (granted, placed in a peculiar position). But, as we have learned with Moser – there is far more than meets the eye.
Once again, H. Moser & Cie. as shown us the art of subtle complications.
In 2005, H. Moser & Cie. made a revolutionary return to haute horology with their Perpetual 1.
Yes, the watch pictured below is a perpetual calendar. This ultra minimalist timepiece was so simple and yet so ingenious that it won a prestigious award at the GPHG back in 2006.
(If you want to see the finalists of the latest GPHG edition, click here)
In 2020, Moser introduced the Streamliner, a luxury sports watch with a distinctive personality, which did not seek to emulate the “icons”.
With a rounded cushion-shaped case, a fluid integrated bracelet and a matte satin finish, the Streamliner exudes a slightly retro 70s vibe.
Be that as it may, the inspiration actually comes from a design movement which was prominent 40-50 years earlier: the Streamliner Moderne era. This school of design thought was marked by elegantly curvacious aesthetics and fluid aerodynamic lines.
As with most Moser watches, the dial of the chronograph embraces the “less is more” design philosophy, with the complication being displayed around the outer perimeter, leaving plenty of room for Moser’s beautiful smoky dial to shine.
That same year, Moser introduced a simpler three-hand version of the Streamliner with a smoked Matrix Green dial: the Streamliner Centre Seconds.
“It is an evolution of the original small seconds design. We created a watch with direct central seconds, a complex process that required additional components to the movement.“– Edouard Meylan, H. Moser & Cie. CEO
In 2021, H. Moser & Cie. revisitedand innovated the “pinnacle of datekeeping” complication, creating a four-central-hand minimalist masterpiece: the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar – featuring a movement entirely developed and manufactured by Moser themselves.
The hand-wound HMC 812 caliber features the same salient points as the HMC 341 caliber, but this time, it features an additional centralised hand.
A masterpiece of subtlety and ingenuity, the HMC 812 caliber uses the dial’s indices to indicate the months by means of a small central red and white hand.
The caliber guarantees a power reserve of 168 hours / 7 days, visible on the dial at the 10 o’clock position, where instead of the hour marker, an indicator takes its place with a small hand.
At 4 o’clock, aligned with the crown, a large date window is present thanks to two superimposed discs that come into operation one after the other: the first from 1 to 15 while the second from 16 to 31. The window itself is actually placed with an unusual 26° angle of inclination for this to work.
The date changes instantly at midnight, thanks to a “Flash Calendar” instant jump mechanism that can be adjusted forward or backward at any time of the day.
In their constant pursuit for minimalist perfection, the leap year indication is located on the side of the movement, visible through the sapphire crystal.
The HMC 812 caliber boasts contemporary finishing techniques whilst maintaining a classic, traditional horizontal “Côtes de Moser”, with an anthracite gray PVD coating on the balance wheel, gears and barrell bridges as well as on the escapement plate.
The Streamliner Perpetual Calendar features perfectly rounded curves, reminiscent of the first high-speed trains of the 1920s and 1930s made in the spirit of Streamline Moderne.
This watch features a steel cushion case measuring 42.3mm in diameter, with a decent waterproof rating of 12 ATM.
The off-centered crown, embellished with a Moser «M», is positioned at 4 o’clock.
The sculptural case exhibits harmonious proportions and perfectly captures the essence of Streamline Moderne aerodynamic lines. It is completed with a slightly convex sapphire crystal, also present for the clear caseback.
The integrated steel bracelet extends these curves, arching ever so slightly to conform around the wrist, ensuring a perfect fit no matter who’s wearing it, thanks to its unique mesh design.
This highly intricately designed bracelet maintains the concept of Streamline Moderne, with all of its articulated links forming a delicate wave.
The links themselves are alternately finished between vertical brushing and polished surfaces.
Meanwhile, the bezel features a sunburst and brushed finish, and the case – like the bracelet – also sports alternately finished surfaces. These different techniques lead to a the case having an unusually shaped effect, typical of Moser cases.
Around the smoked dial – a Moser signature – we can find a white and red external minute and seconds track, which are indicated by the central hands, reflecting those found on the dials of racing cars or motorsport related instruments.
Moser chose three-dimensional curved hands to indicate the hours and minutes, split into two parts, featuring inserts in Globolight®, an innovative ceramic-based material containing Superluminova®.
The price may actually surprise you: CHF 49,900.00.
Moser is known for their extravagant designs and campaigns, but with ever so subtle mastery.
Pushing boundaries is how the brand has made a name for itself in this industry: one which is slowly becoming increasingly “bland” – less and less distinctive.
Even if the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar may not be striking at first sight, the ingenuity behind it still manages to evoke all the unmistakable H. Moser & Cie styles, from the smoked dial with red accents, to the cushion shape of the case, to the position of the crown and even the orientation of the date window.
In short, irreverent haute horlogerie.
Author: Andrea Muratore
Translated by: Enrico Della Guerra