If there is one axiom that all collectors and watch lovers share, it is that choosing one (just one) is difficult if not impossible: there are many, too many objects of desire to have on the wrist, to keep in a box or simply to admire. Let alone completing a comprehensive guide of the best watches for men.
With this in mind, we tried to compile a list of the most desirable men’s watches launched in 2023, the ones that most impressed us and that we would have liked to see on our wrist, distinguishing them by “types.” Typologies only indicative, because we at IWS are firm believers in the beauty of contamination and experimentation that makes a watch, seemingly intended for one type of wrist, perfect and irresistible even on a whole other style…
Moreover, we are also absolutely sure we have forgotten some watches that you can put on your “dream list,” because that’s kind of the beauty of watchmaking: if you can’t have it, you can still dream about it…
Jaeger-LeCoultre Revestro Tribute Chronograph
For the discreet and elegant man
Inspired by Art Deco geometries and created to meet the needs of polo players, the Reverso is the blasé watch par excellence.
A masterpiece of horological mastery to be admired as much for its mechanical complexity as for its exceptional finishing: applied hour markers and minute track floating above the movement, blued chronograph hands, chamfered bridges… Unique and versatile, the Reverso Tribute Chronograph comes with a pair of interchangeable straps: one in leather and blue canvas, the other entirely in leather with Casa Fagliano design.
A perfect watch for a stylish yet sporty man who shuns bling-bling accessories. If you want to know more about this watch I invite you to read our dedicated article.
List price: 27,500 euros in the steel version and 42,700 euros in the rose gold version.
Cartier Tank Americaine in platinum
For the noble man
The year 2023 has given us a new version of one of the “myths” of watchmaking, Cartier’s Tank Américaine, the perfect watch for the man who is allergic to fashions, a lover of barely whispered, never ostentatious luxury.
Although this timepiece owes its name to war tanks, the balance of its lines and the softness of its slightly curved case in fact make it one of the most discreet and elegant watches ever. Cartier’s icon now becomes even slimmer and more curved, exaggerating the chic allure of a watch that has always been discreet, elegant and precious.
It is available in two versions, rose gold and steel, and in three sizes: mini, small and large.
List price: Euro 18,500 (the large model with a rose gold case), Euro 12,700 (the small model with a rose gold case), Euro 8,500 (the mini model, with a rose gold case), Euro 6,850 (the large model with a steel case), Euro 5,600 (the medium model in steel) and Euro 4350 (the mini model in steel)
Richard Mille RM 66 Manual Winding Flying Tourbillon.
For the glamorous rocker.
For those who want (and can, given the sky-high prices and super-limited run) to stand out from the ordinary. The Richard Mille RM 66 has a rock and dark but deeply artistic soul.
The case features stud-like 5N red gold inserts on the sides, much like the Clou De Paris finish found on the bezels of watches in the 1950s-60s. Also in 5N red gold is the hand that stands out in the center of the case with a scaramantic and (indeed) roccheggiante horn symbol. At 12 o’clock we find a Flying Tourbillon with a skull and variable-inertia balance wheel for maximum power reserve performance (72 hours).
This watch is a limited edition of only 50 pieces world and the price is by request.
To learn more about this watch, please read our dedicated article.
Squale Master x Palombari del Comsubin
For the diver collector.
The Squale Master x Palombari del Comsubin is a luxurious dive watch made of Grade 5 Titanium, known for its strength and lightness. Designed to withstand up to 1,200 meters underwater, it features a Helium valve and a unidirectional bezel with SuperLuminova, making it a must-have timepiece for professional and amateur divers. Actually, it is so good that even if you just want to sunbath by the sea, this would be a no-brainer.
With a distinctive design featuring the Comsubin Divers logo and a blue dial, the watch is a tribute to the Italian Navy’s prestigious elite unit. Limited to 500 units, 80 of which are reserved for Comsubin Divers, this collector’s piece is available at a price of EUR 1990.00.
To learn more, read our article dedicated to this amazing diver.
Seiko 5 Sports 55th Anniversary Bruce Lee Limited Edition
For the athlete-philosopher.
For lovers of limited editions (only 15,000 pieces worldwide) and cinema, Seiko presented, to celebrate the 55th anniversary of this beloved model, a collaboration in honor of Bruce Lee, who wore 5 Sports Seiko during his lifetime.
Born in San Francisco, Bruce Lee was a film actor, martial artist, director and teacher whose career spanned continents. He became a superstar with the success of The Fury of China Strikes Back (1971) but died tragically at the young age of 32 once filming of The 3 of Operation Dragon (1973) was completed.
This model, an automatic with manual winding, pays tribute to a man whose legacy continues through his many achievements as a martial artist, actor and cultural icon.
Patek Philippe Calatrava Travel Time
For the luxury traveler
The Calatrava is recognized as the true essence of the round wristwatch and as one of the symbols of Patek Philippe style. This model combines the unquestionable elegance of the Calatrava with the travel time function, making it the perfect watch for the cosmopolitan who loves to travel without sacrificing style.The new Calatrava Travel Time is elegant, functional and perfect in its complexity.
This new Calatrava Ref. 5224R-001 has a 24-hour local and home time display that stands out on a beautiful navy blue dial. The 24 applied hour markers are in rose gold, as is the case, which is thin and discreet (9.85 mm thick).
List price is 57,832.00 Euros
For more information on this gorgeous model, here is the link to our dedicated article.
Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper
Per il lupo di mare.
“Mi piace il vento perché non si può comperare”, diceva Gianni Agnelli. Per chi, come l’Avvocato, ama l’adrenalina, la velocità e le sfide, non solo in mare ma anche nella vita di tutti i giorni, l’orologio perfetto è il nuovo Tag Heuer Carrera Skipper. Questo modello reinterpreta la precedente versione, creata da Jack Heuer per omaggiare la vittoria dell’Intrepid all’America’s Cup del 1967, con diverse novità rispetto al passato: spiccano tre contatori, a ore 3 è presente il countdown da 15 minuti, a ore 6 ci sono i secondi continui, mentre a ore 9 il contatore da 12 ore.
La caratteristica che più salta all’occhio è l’impatto cromatico del quadrante, con sfondo blu acceso e con il contatore dei minuti crono per il conto alla rovescia da regata suddiviso in tre spicchi, esattamente per calcolare le 3 sirene a intervalli da 5 minuti che vengono suonate prima del via nelle gare di vela, con il colore verde acqua che riprende fedelmente il ponte dell’Intrepid, mentre l’arancione è un tono molto usato e riconoscibile nella nautica, chiamato Regatta Orange, e il verde Lagoon Green. Inoltre, la gradazione dei colori da verde acceso ad arancione richiama l’urgenza che aumenta con lo scorrere del tempo. Arancione è anche la lancetta centrale dei secondi. Il datario è collocato a ore 6, dove c’è anche il contatore dei secondi continui.
Ecco il link al nostro articolo sullo stupendo lavoro che Tag Heuer ha fatto per il nuovo Skipper.
Prezzo di listino: Euro 6.850,00.
Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms di Blancpain X Swatch
For the environmentalist who loves the Ocean.
Following the Omega x Swatch collaboration, 2023 saw the birth of five watches resulting from an equally disruptive union, that of Blancpain and Swatch, perfect for the man who is sporty, modern, environmentally conscious but also eager to get noticed.
The mechanical watches in the Bioceramic Scuba Fifty Fathoms collection faithfully reproduce all the hallmarks of iconic Swiss watchmaking and refer to the SCUBA line, the famous line of dive watches. Inspired by the deep sea, each model celebrates one of the five oceans and the nudibranchs, magnificent and colorful mollusks that live in their depths.
It is impossible not to notice all the very strong references to Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms, which makes these watches even more interesting. Personally, the must among the five is the white bio-ceramic one that recalls the famous Mil-Spec.
List price: Euro 390,00.
Oris Propilot X Kermit Edition
For those who take life ironically.
For those who don’t take themselves too seriously but at the same time want to stand out, the perfect watch is the new ProPilot X Kermit Edition. On the first day of the month, the date that appears in the window at 6 o’clock is replaced by the very ironic face of Kermit the Frog, a famous Muppet character.
The 39-mm sandblasted satin-finished titanium case catches the eye with a dial in ringing green with a subtle grained texture. The printed hour markers and minute track are in white. This special and distinctive watch houses an Oris caliber 400, with automatic winding and 120 hours of power reserve.
And, even if the day has been heavy, any hour is a good time to smile with Kermit!
List price: Euro 4,400.00.
Rolex Daytona Le Mans Edition
For those who…? Have friends in Heaven!
We could not close our review with the best men’s watches of 2023 without mentioning the star of the Rolex house, the Daytona, which just this year turns 60 years old. Quite surprisingly, in fact, Rolex has launched a new Daytona in white gold (ref. 126529LN) to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the legendary model and the centenary of the 24 Hours of Le Mans in one fell swoop. After all, Rolex has always been associated with motor racing.
The dial is beautiful, with “exotic” counters typical of “Paul Newman” reverse panda dials. On the tachymeter scale of the black Cerachrom bezel stands out the number “100” in red ceramic, just to pay homage to the anniversary. The caseback is transparent, as on the platinum model of the new Daytona. The list price is 51,740 euros, but on the parallel market this model, expecting its rarity and sure collector’s value, has already reached incredible figures.
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