As always, Vacheron Constantin also presented its novelties today at Watches & Wonders and I can say, without any doubts, that my expectations where exceeded especially by the beauty, the attention to aesthetics that the maison has shown. And in fact, this fits perfectly with what is the theme of Vacheron’s new watches for this 2022: The Anatomy of Beauty®.
The theme aims to evoke the beauty that is realized not only as a whole, but in every detail never left to chance. Each part, each component, from the smallest to the one that cannot even be seen except by disassembling the watch, is cared for and finished in every detail to constitute, on the whole, the Anatomy of Beauty.
Philosophical deviations aside, here are the Vacheron Constantin novelties presented at Watches & Wonders 2022
Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar – ref. 5000T/000P-B975
The first one that I present to you, friends of IWS, is the one that struck me the most. In 2022 (finally, some will think), Vacheron Constantin reintroduces a platinum model with a salmon-colored dial; and not just any model but a chronograph with a perpetual calendar!
At first sight, the watch, as the name itself suggests, looks very traditional. The Dauphine hands and chemin de fer indexes, both in white gold, the stepped case with the groove on the back are all evident reminiscences to a historical and eternal design. However, it is a classicism that, thanks to the combination of salmon and platinum, definitely does not fall into being boring.
Other small details that help to rejuvenate the piece are the blued chronograph’s and counters’ hands at 3 and 6 o’clock, as well as the platinum moon phase disc finely decorated with engraved moons. Lastly, I also want to point out the Maltese cross at 12 o’clock, made of pink gold with alternating sandblasted and polished finishes that contribute to making the emblem even more alive and dynamic.
The watch measures 43mm in diameter and 12.94mm thick and is water resistant to 30 meters. It will be sold on a dark blue alligator leather strap with a platinum folding clasp and accompanied by a special adjustment tool for the perpetual calendar.
The Traditionnelle Chronograph Perpetual Calendar is powered by the manual winding caliber 1142 QP, one of Vacheron Costantin’s historic calibers, dating back to the 1940s. In its version with a perpetual calendar it is made up of 324 components and can be admired by the lucky owner through a sapphire crystal case back.
Well, if you are already thinking to get your hands on it you better be fast. It should be noted that the piece will have an annual limit of production and will be sold exclusively at official Vacheron Constantin Boutiques.
Overseas tourbillon skeleton – refs. 6000V/110R-B934 e 6000V/110T-B935
Let’s jump from an extremely classic timepiece to a very modern one, or rather two. For the first time in the history of the Overseas collection, born in 1996, a skeletonized tourbillon is introduced. For presenting of this novelty, Vacheron Constantin did not limit itself to create a single version. Actually, the new skeletonized Overseas Tourbillon will be available both in rose gold and, for lovers of more avant-garde and performing timepieces, in grade 5 titanium.
As for Lange’s Odysseus, also for Vacheron Constantin it is the maison’s first model to be made entirely of titanium, a choice that certainly demonstrates an attempt to move away from excessive attachment to tradition, in favor of experimenting with new solutions, both stylistic and technical.
The watch is powered by a Manufacture caliber 2160 SQ that has been skeletonized in a contemporary key, which gives the watch an extremely modern look. The skeletonization of the movement has an anthracite gray color, obtained thanks to a treatment called “NAC”. This color gives the timepiece a more aggressive look and, if you will, weighs it down a bit, especially in the versions with a dark-colored strap.
Looking at the dial, at 2 o’clock, a suggestive wind rose that was made by skeletonizing the drum and lid of the barrel can be glimpsed semi-hidden.
All the finely finished caliber details can be seen from the sapphire crystal of the dial. The indexes fixed to the glass are in rhodium-plated rose gold (pink gold version) or in white gold (titanium version). The same metals are used for the hands which, like the indexes, are coated with Super-LumiNova®. The dial ring, again depending on the model, is in black lacquered pink gold or in white gold with blue PVD treatment.
Conclusions
The Vacheron Constantin novelties for this 2022 are certainly a perfect mix of tradition and innovation and this can only please all fans. The Traditionnelle perpetual calendar chronograph is a demonstration of unquestionable elegance and the salmon dial helps to give a touch as traditional as it is sparkling. On the other hand, the two Overseas skeletonized tourbillons represent the other side of the coin, looking ahead as it is widely demonstrated by the skeletonization in modern key and the choice of grade 5 titanium, instead of a more traditional stainless steel.
And you? What do you think of the new products presented by Vacheron Constantin? Did you expect something different? Let me know in the comments!
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