Among the most fascinating novelties at Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 , one emerges and it bears the name of Gerald Charles. The independent Maison, founded in 2000 by one of the greatest and most influential designers in watchmaking history, Gérald Genta, is turning 25 and honors this important milestone with the launch of the Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition. An amazing watch that is not just a celebration but a manifesto of art and technique.
The Master GC39 25th Anniversary Edition
The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition takes up and reinterprets one of the most interesting projects ever created by Gérald Genta for the Maison: the 2005 Maestro GC39, a marvelous specimen with a “jumping hours” complication on a disc, developed in collaboration with friend and master watchmaker Antoine Preziuso.
The new edition retains its technical and stylistic essence, but makes an important evolution. The case, inspired by the unmistakable Baroque outline of Francesco Borromini’s Church of San Carlo alle Quattro Fontane, now takes on bolder proportions: 42 mm x 42 mm (3 mm larger than the Maestro 2.0 Ultra-Thin) and a restrained thickness of 11 mm. Despite the complexities of the design, the brand chooses grade 5 titanium with a polished finish, thus ensuring lightness, robustness, and ergonomics on the wrist.
The dial introduces a new aesthetic-stylistic “language.” At 12 o’clock, an aperture reveals the disc and the “jumping hours” complication with instantaneous advancement, accompanied by a central skeletonized blued steel minute sphere, which allows light to filter through the dial surface.
It is made with extreme care, using three components and materials that, combined, create a radial pattern of baroque appeal, almost hidden, that comes to life only when light hits it. This incredible effect is achieved through a new chemical micro-etching technique called meta-guilloché that “plays” with creating luminous three-dimensional surfaces.
In the center we find a delicate lapis lazuli plate (beloved by Genta) that perfectly follows the profile of the case and adds a precious and symbolic note to the dial. The effect overall is truly magnetic!
Completing the design are a flange with a black minute track, blued steel five-minute interval markers, and the 25th anniversary commemorative logo, visible only on models introduced in 2025. Last but not least is the strap, made of blue vulcanized rubber with a Clou de Paris pattern, which is paired with a deployment buckle also made of polished titanium.
Beyond Complication
Inside is the new Swiss Manufacture 4.0 Jumping Hours caliber, developed and patented in-house by Gerald Charles. A complication as fascinating as it is complex: the jumping hours function consumes in one hour the energy that a movement normally uses in 3600 seconds, and the disc is 25 times heavier than an hour sphere, thus requiring 70,000 times more force than a three-hand watch.
A technical challenge that fascinated Genta and that today the Maison has decided to tackle in keeping with the “no compromise” approach. The movement boasts 265 components, a 50-hour power reserve, handcrafted finishes (Côtes de Genève, perlage, rhodium-plated module wheels), and a gilded rotor visible through the sapphire caseback. The latter bears a special honeycomb pattern engraved with the 25th anniversary logo, signed by friend and consultant Octavio Garcia.
The Meeting of Past and Present
In crowning the anniversary, during the in-the-city events of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025, Gerald Charles officially opens its historical archives to the public. A unique occasion designed to allow enthusiasts and collectors to enter Genta’s imagination, amid dreams on paper and visions that anticipated the future of watchmaking.
And Federico Ziviani, CEO of Gerald Charles tells:
“It is a great honor to lead the Maison in this special year. Since 2019 we have brought Gerald Charles back to the attention of a new generation of collectors. Now it is time to open our archives and unveil the incredible creative legacy of Gérald Genta.”
Conclusions and Price
The Maestro GC39 25th Anniversary Edition interprets, sculpts, and reinvents “time” following in the footsteps and expressiveness of the works of master Gérald Genta.
Produced in only 100 pieces and available at a price of €44,600.00 this limited edition celebrates not only an anniversary, but an idea.
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