What happens when ancestral mastery is projected into the future and tradition becomes bold avant-garde? When does the most sophisticated watchmaking intersect with fine jewelry?
The result of such combinations will be revolutionary, even shocking, but never trivial.
An example of this experimentation is undoubtedly, in the world of watchmaking, the Royal Oak Concept, a model that leaves no one indifferent: either you hate it, or you love it.
In the Royal Oak Concept, ultra-modern technical precision meets cutting-edge micromechanics, and has been, since 2002, the year of its birth, a platform for testing Audemars Piguet, a brand that has always been audacious in its avant-garde choices.
It is, in fact, a timepiece that, starting from the Royal Oak “monument” (also initially the subject of bewilderment due to its innovation), pushes the bar towards the future, with revolutionary aesthetics high tech dial that showcases the internal “engine”.
The effect is that of an “alien” clock, straight out of a science fiction film: definitely not for shy people!
Almost 20 years have passed since the launch – in 2002 – of the first Concept and, since then, the model has evolved more and more, up to the amazing models that we present here.
Today, Audemars presents the new Concept Flying Tourbillons, designed for women’s wrists.
Let’s find out together.There are six models, all in limited edition, of Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon in white or rose gold, embellished with diamonds and precious stones, with brilliant or baguette cut, in multiple shades.
These watches are the result of the combination between the tradition of Haute Horlogerie and the luxury and research of High Jewelry: the result is a precious kaleidoscope of unusual plays of light.
The collection consists of four models with a pavé of blue sapphires of various shades, while the other two exhibit a rainbow gemstone design.
The name is a reference to the function that characterizes all the models in the collection, namely the Flying Tourbillon, a sophisticated complication that compensates for the effect of gravity in the watch and increases the precision of the watch: it is currently considered one of the highest expressions of watchmaking art. This complication is an evolution of the Tourbillon patented by Abraham-Louis Breguet; the first Flying Tourbillon is attributed to Alfred Helwig, in 1920.
The flying tourbillon rotates at 6 o’clock. In these watches, the sophistication lies in the fact that the tourbillon is set with precious stones. Among other things, we recall that the original Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon was the first Audemars Piguet watch equipped with a flying tourbillon, along with the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon GMT.
The skeletonized cylinder of the hand-wound Caliber 2951, visible at 11 o’clock, allows an exceptional view of the coil spring, the beating heart of this crazy watch. The satin-finished bridges, which feature polished corners and white lacquered decorations, visible against the background of the skeletonized dial, can also be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Let’s see in detail (and what details!) these fantastic timepieces.
Over the rainbow (and on my wrist)
Incredibly striking, the two “Rainbow” models are watches not recommended to those who want to go unnoticed.
Incredibly striking, the two “Rainbow” models are watches not recommended to those who want to go unnoticed.
For these jewels, 12 different types of colored gems have been meticulously chosen, including rubies, tsavorites, emeralds, topazes, tanzanites, amethysts and sapphires of various colors, in order to create a play of lively shades and combinations of uniform gradations.
The progressive tones of red, orange, yellow, green, blue and purple are perfectly harmonious to the eye and also highlight the geometry of the case and bezel, reflecting the light to create a unique optical experience, similar to that of a rainbow.
The colored gemstones and diamonds adorning these new models have been expertly cut and individually polished to the desired shape and size before being set in gold by the hand of expert jewelers. Dial setting presented an additional challenge due to the small size of the design and movement components.
The effect of these precious stone mosaics, combined with the high-tech design of strong impact, typical of the “Concept” model, is amazing.
Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon – REF. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01
The Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon in 18k white gold (Ref. 26227BC.YY.D326CR.01) is illuminated by 468 brilliant-cut colored gemstones, carefully selected to achieve a unique rainbow effect.
The case, 38.5 mm and 11.4 mm thick, is made of 18-karat white gold, the bezel is set with brilliant-cut colored gemstones, the crystal is sapphire and the caseback features an anti-reflective treatment, while the crown is set with a translucent cabochon-cut sapphire. The watch is guaranteed to be waterproof up to 20 m.
The skeletonized dial is also in 18-karat white gold and features the flange set with brilliant-cut colored gems; the skeletonized hands are in white gold.
The bracelet is composed of a hand-stitched blue alligator strap with a “large square scales” motif and an AP folding clasp in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut colored gemstones. The watch is delivered with a blue rubber strap with additional “constellation” decoration.
As the name suggests, this magnificent watch features the Flying Tourbillon, hours and minutes function.
The movement is a hand-wound Caliber 2951 with a minimum power reserve of 77 hours.
Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon – REF26229BC.ZY.D326CR.01
The second “Rainbow” model (Ref. 26229BC.ZY.D326CR.01) is characterized by the “Rainbow” bezel, made of baguette-cut colored precious stones, which embellishes the case.
The dial and the components of the movement are in white gold and are entirely set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
The case is always 38.5mm, albeit this time slightly thicker: 11.6mm.
Here as well, the glass and caseback are in sapphire crystal with anti-reflective treatment and the crown is set with a translucent cabochon-cut sapphire.
The model has a beautiful skeletonized dial in 18-karat white gold and flange set with brilliant-cut diamonds; the white gold skeletonized hands fit harmoniously into this particular dial.
The bracelet, as for the other Rainbow model, has a hand-stitched blue alligator strap with a “large square scales” motif and an AP folding clasp in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut diamonds, also here with a rubber strap with additional “constellation” decoration.
The Flying Tourbillon function, hours and minutes and the hand-wound Caliber 2951 movement are naturally identical, with a minimum power reserve of 77 hours.
The blue sapphire time
The other models in the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon series, available in 18-karat white or rose gold, are covered with 208 blue sapphires of various baguette-cut shades.
The sapphires have been cut in 144 different sizes to fit the curves of the Royal Oak Concept’s case and the architecture of the dial and movement components.
Small grooves are engraved in the precious stones; the stones are then meticulously inserted one by one on a hidden guide mounted in the gold component to give the impression that they support themselves. This invisible setting, for each timepiece, required 150 hours of work.
The complexity also lies in achieving perfect alignment, a painstaking task that requires extreme precision. The stones used for these watches on the one hand are of extreme purity and quality, on the other hand they are cut in such a meticulous way as to enhance their intrinsic beauty.
Each baguette must not only present a “clean” view (with no visible additions to the naked eye), but its gradual lines and facets must also be perfectly symmetrical and aligned.
Added to this is the challenge of achieving a homogeneous gradation between the shades of blue. Once paired, the baguette-cut sapphires give a particular look to the creation, further enhancing the 3D effect and the play of light of the architectural movement.
Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon – REF 26227BC.SS.D326CR.01 e REF 26227BC.SS.D314CR.01
The 18-karat white gold case of the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon sparkles with brilliant-cut blue sapphires of various shades, while the gold dial and movement components are set with brilliant-cut diamonds.
The case, 38.5 mm and 11.4 mm thick, is in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut blue sapphires of various shades, sapphire crystal and caseback with anti-reflective treatment, crown set with a translucent cabochon-cut sapphire. Guaranteed waterproofness of 20 m.
The strap is hand-stitched in blue or light blue alligator with “large square scales” motif and AP folding clasp in 18-karat white gold set with brilliant-cut blue sapphires. This model also provides the blue rubber strap with an additional constellation decoration.
Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon – REF 26228BC.SS.D314CR.01
(in white gold) e REF – 26228OR.SS.D314CR.01 (in rose gold)
It is difficult to skimp on superlatives, in front of this model, available (so to speak, given the rarity of the object) in both white and pink gold.
208 baguette-cut sapphires in different shades of blue illuminate the case, dial and movement components of this Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon entirely crafted in 18-karat white gold. This model will be available in selected Audemars Piguet stores in 2022.
Case 38.5 mm in diameter and 11.6 mm thick in 18-karat white or pink gold set with baguette-cut blue sapphires of various shades, bezel set with baguette-cut blue sapphires, sapphire crystal and caseback with anti-reflective treatment, crown set with a translucent cabochon-cut sapphire. Guaranteed waterproof up to 20 m.
Here too we find the skeletonized dial in white or 18-karat pink gold and flange set with baguette-cut blue sapphires, as well as the skeletonized hands in white / pink gold.
The hand-sewn strap in blue alligator with “large square scales” motif and AP folding clasp in 18-carat white gold (pink in the second version) set with baguette-cut blue sapphires is truly impressive, which completes the appeal of colored stones in an elegant way. Blue rubber strap with additional “constellation” decoration.
Of course there is the Flying Tourbillon function, hours and minutes.
The skeletonized cylinder of the hand-wound Caliber 2951, visible at 11 o’clock, allows an exceptional view of the coil spring, the beating heart of the watch.
The satin-finished bridges, which feature polished corners and white lacquered decorations, visible against the background of the skeletonized dial, can also be admired through the sapphire crystal caseback.
Our take
The categories and classifications that are normally used for watches of this world do not suit the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon. Here, we are in another galaxy.
Already the starting model, the Royal Oak Concept, is the one of a kind of watches, excessive, futuristic and a true icon of luxury-pop.
In the case of the watches we have just seen, then, to the high-tech architecture, the complication of the Flying tourbillon and the precision of the mechanics that pulsate in the watch, we add the delirious riot of precious stones that captivate the eye with shades of color and dazzles. indescribable.
They are watches designed and presented for a female audience: however, in our opinion the size of the case – 38.5 mm – the brazen beauty of the colors and the mechanical prodigy, do not exclude that the Royal Oak Concept Flying Tourbillon fits perfectly on masculine wrists, as long as those who dare to wear them are confident enough to pull it off and feel all eyes on them. A perfect example of a transversal watch, so amazing that it refuses any category and definition.
For those who are undecided, however, there is still time to get an idea (and maybe start breaking the piggy bank to find the necessary six-zero figures !!!): these models will be available in selected Audemars Piguet stores only in 2022.
To learn more visit the official Audemars Piguet website.
Author: Benedetta Valcastelli
Translated by: Enrico Della Guerra
